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Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? #1180304
02/18/12 12:29 AM
02/18/12 12:29 AM
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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My coronet has the 318 granny motor in it. Nothing awesome, but I will be pulling it to regasket the thing (since it leaks from every possible place).

While it is out, I am afraid what I will find in regards to the 1969 castings.

Is the swap to the newer magnum heads worth it?

Should I use some iron ones I find from the local junkyard?

I will be running manifolds since it is a 4 door cruiser, but what are your experiences?

Yay or Nay? old small block heads or newer magnum castings??

Eightlitermopar


Mopar or no car
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180305
02/18/12 12:31 AM
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gonna need an intake with new heads. straight bolts versus angled bolts. Just a "heads" up.

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: TheBlueBeast] #1180306
02/18/12 12:36 AM
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Here's the intake you'll need to use your original stuff with on a LA360 for a 75 Fury wagon I'm doing right now with a mag head swap

7077159-SAM_3363.JPG (317 downloads)
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180307
02/18/12 12:36 AM
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North Texas
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360cuda Offline
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According to the pro's, the magnum heads will flow better than the old ones do.

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: 360cuda] #1180308
02/18/12 12:39 AM
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Here's another

7077164-SAM_3674.JPG (297 downloads)
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: BulletBob] #1180309
02/18/12 12:41 AM
02/18/12 12:41 AM
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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I knew that a new intake would be needed. that would have sucked trying to get my old one to fit

Anyway, just wondering if it delivers the difference enough to make the swap worth it.

thanks!

Eightlitermopar

ps. Do you have to get custom pushrods? Or do you use the magnum pieces?


Mopar or no car
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: BulletBob] #1180310
02/18/12 12:43 AM
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Magnum flow better & from what I've been told are 10-12 cc's less in combustion chamber volume or 1 point in compression depending on bore size.

They're already set for unleaded gas

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: BulletBob] #1180311
02/18/12 12:50 AM
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Summit #SUM-1457650 pushrods,AMC or aftermarket oil through Chrysler lifters,cut some casting out for the pushrods to clear & go. You can use the MP steel reinforced neoprene VC gaskets on your original VC's & keep that all original look a little

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: BulletBob] #1180312
02/18/12 12:57 AM
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92 only truck or van Magnum manifolds are the trick. 2 1/4" outlet Requires a different dipstick & tube for the trans. What trans do you have?

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: BulletBob] #1180313
02/18/12 01:24 AM
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Why not just keep it simple and swap on some '302 swirl port heads?

Everything you have now will bolt up. No fancy intake or manifolds needed. They are already set up for unleaded gas. And they flow better then the old 318 heads.

Look for them on a 85 or later M-body with a 2bbl or a TBI truck engine.

Magnum heads are better but if you are keeping the motor stockish i dont think they are worth all the extra crap you have to do to make them fit.


I was asked to contribute money to help solve the civil unrest in Egypt, but I suspect it's some sort of pyramid scheme.

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180314
02/18/12 01:29 AM
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go for it.. it will be like a new motor

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: CrAlt] #1180315
02/18/12 04:45 AM
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Quote:

Why not just keep it simple and swap on some '302 swirl port heads?

Everything you have now will bolt up. No fancy intake or manifolds needed. They are already set up for unleaded gas. And they flow better then the old 318 heads.

Look for them on a 85 or later M-body with a 2bbl or a TBI truck engine.

Magnum heads are better but if you are keeping the motor stockish i dont think they are worth all the extra crap you have to do to make them fit.





His stock exhaust manifolds will bolt to them

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: CrAlt] #1180316
02/18/12 05:17 AM
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Quote:



i dont think they are worth all the extra crap you have to do to make them fit.




Oh yes they are! Even with a MILD cam, its a night and day difference


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1994 F150 XLT Super Cab 2WD
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Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: 69L78Nova] #1180317
02/18/12 05:44 AM
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Let's see

Bigger valves
Smaller chambers
Improved version of the "swirl port"
Lighter valves
Better flow overall
1.6 Ratio Rockers instead of 1.5

Looks like it's well worth it to me

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: BulletBob] #1180318
02/18/12 06:38 AM
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Kent, Wa
340SHORTY Offline
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and a 400.== intake manifold


I am truckless..
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: 340SHORTY] #1180319
02/18/12 09:39 AM
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If your going that far with the engine regasket,(new heads and intake and pushrods and lifters) you might as well re-ring it,re-bearing it and cam it while your in there. "IF" the bores are OK and within specs that is.....


Karma has no menu. You get served what you deserve.
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: BulletBob] #1180320
02/18/12 10:40 AM
02/18/12 10:40 AM
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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Quote:

92 only truck or van Magnum manifolds are the trick. 2 1/4" outlet Requires a different dipstick & tube for the trans. What trans do you have?




its the 904, nothing fancy.

eight


Mopar or no car
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: SKR8PN] #1180321
02/18/12 10:45 AM
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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Quote:

If your going that far with the engine regasket,(new heads and intake and pushrods and lifters) you might as well re-ring it,re-bearing it and cam it while your in there. "IF" the bores are OK and within specs that is.....




yeah....I know. The engine runs sweet. It doesn't burn oil, blow smoke, etc. (probably because it has no oil to burn! )

Of course I am exaggerating, but it does leak a bit. I hate to start looking for problems if I can avoid it.

So far this engine gets about 18-22 mpg on roadtrips. Would these heads hurt that mileage or improve it? I know that increased power means increased gas intake

eightlitermopar


Mopar or no car
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: SKR8PN] #1180322
02/18/12 11:25 AM
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Quote:

If your going that far with the engine regasket,(new heads and intake and pushrods and lifters) you might as well re-ring it,re-bearing it and cam it while your in there. "IF" the bores are OK and within specs that is.....




And if your going THAT far why not just find a 360?


I was asked to contribute money to help solve the civil unrest in Egypt, but I suspect it's some sort of pyramid scheme.

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: 340SHORTY] #1180323
02/18/12 12:11 PM
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Quote:

and a 400.== intake manifold
[/quot

That intake in the pic is $180..00 new shipped to the door, The Performer RPM Air-Gap is $295.00 new

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: BulletBob] #1180324
02/18/12 02:20 PM
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340duster340 Offline
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why not just get a mag318 core and use that


1966 Dart GT ...down to only 1 mopar for the first time in 15 years!
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: CrAlt] #1180325
02/18/12 05:04 PM
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Quote:

Why not just keep it simple and swap on some '302 swirl port heads?

Everything you have now will bolt up. No fancy intake or manifolds needed. They are already set up for unleaded gas. And they flow better then the old 318 heads.

Look for them on a 85 or later M-body with a 2bbl or a TBI truck engine.

Magnum heads are better but if you are keeping the motor stockish i dont think they are worth all the extra crap you have to do to make them fit.




302's don't flow any better than old 318 heads. they have better, smaller chambers for a little more compression...


mag heads and a cam in the 208@.050 and .3-.32" lobe lift makea a very pleasant and potent combo...you'll need different valve springs. hughes #1110 with their matching retainers work well.


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2011 Toxic Orange Dodge Charger R/T
2017 Grand Cherokee Overland
2014 Jeep Cherokee Latitude (holy crap, my daughter is driving)
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: 340duster340] #1180326
02/18/12 05:23 PM
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Quote:

why not just get a mag318 core and use that




X2 may as well just change motors. They gotta be giving away 5.2 and even 5.9 Magnums by now. I'd even look into early 03-08 non VCT 5.7L Hemi's, even if just for reference sake.

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: 340duster340] #1180327
02/18/12 09:08 PM
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Colleyville
3hundred Offline
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Quote:

why not just get a mag318 core and use that




I agree, the 318 mag is a sweet little package that blows the doors off the older ones. Mileage is good as well, wife's 318 magnum Ramcharger knocks down 20 MPG on the road.

318 mag is a virtual bolt in, very easy swap, old engine mounts are there, transmission pattern is the same, sealing is greatly improved over the old engine.

Robert


'68 Fury Convertible
'69 300 Convertible
'15 Durango 5.7 Hemi
'16 300 S Hemi
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: 3hundred] #1180328
02/19/12 12:33 AM
02/19/12 12:33 AM
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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Quote:

Quote:

why not just get a mag318 core and use that




I agree, the 318 mag is a sweet little package that blows the doors off the older ones. Mileage is good as well, wife's 318 magnum Ramcharger knocks down 20 MPG on the road.

318 mag is a virtual bolt in, very easy swap, old engine mounts are there, transmission pattern is the same, sealing is greatly improved over the old engine.

Robert




So the 904 would bolt right up?

I know the 518 would be sweet, but you can see where this is going. A simple regasket turns into...."well, while I am here, I might as well..."

I get carried away pretty quickly.

eightlitermopar


Mopar or no car
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180329
02/19/12 12:58 AM
02/19/12 12:58 AM
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904 will bolt up to a 5.2 Mag just fine (if you are converting the Mag to carb'd instead of OE injection). If you want to keep the Mag injected, You'll need to notch the 904 bell housing to allow fitment (of a crank position sensor???).


Scott B. "I'm a self-made man... I started with nothing, and I still have most of it!" 68 360 rusty B'cuda 'vert (GO Fish)13.59@ 98.72 mph 69 340 GTS stock 14.18@ 95.60 mph 01 5.9L Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4x4 01 3.5L 300M 16.23@ 86.97 mph
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: Dakota_Don] #1180330
02/19/12 11:59 AM
02/19/12 11:59 AM
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Tampa, FL
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Quote:

go for it.. it will be like a new motor




Understatement of the year!!! I did this swap to a 70 318 motor and it was incredible how much more power it had compared to the stock heads. This was a 52,ooo mile original 2 barrel engine. Now I did use home ported mag heads with headers and a .450 lift cam but that little 318 woke right up and sounded pretty mean with a nice angry burble from the exhaust!!! Do it! TBF


71 Challenger 528 Hemi project
09 Gr Cherokee 5.7 hemi in da house!!
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180331
02/19/12 07:40 PM
02/19/12 07:40 PM
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Cruising!
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According to some earlier posts on this website, it's possible to redrill the magnum heads to use the LA intake manifold. If I recall correctly, the ports in the LA intake are a slightly different size or shape than the ports in the magnum heads. Because of this difference, it's best to use the aftermarket intake designed for the magnum heads.

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: QuickDodge] #1180332
02/19/12 09:11 PM
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The ports are in the same place. If you sit the LA intake gaskets on the Mag heads they fit perfect only the holes are different. The ports being different is wrong except for they flow better. I've got 3 of those incorrect intakes that have been riding for years now & haven't had a problem yet out of any of them. I've own both the Crosswind & RPM Air-gap & have used the MP pieces too they all work fine

Alot of the guys here in the past used to bash & say the port crap thing about the Crosswind because the Edelbrock is supposed to be King. The Edelbrock isn't that friendly using LA stuff with it. No one makes a correct bypass hose to use it & if you have A/c you Can't use it unless you Change it to serpentine drive.

If you need pics I have both intakes to compare

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: BulletBob] #1180333
02/19/12 10:33 PM
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Intake ports are about the same between LA and Magnum. Maybe you are thinking about the exhaust ports? There is a difference between LA and Magnum exhaust ports... bolt pattern is the same, but the floor of the Magnum port is raised for better flow. If trying to mate LA exhaust manifolds or headers to Magnum heads, I'd suggest using "Remflex" gaskets to make sure they seal at the bottom of the port.


Scott B. "I'm a self-made man... I started with nothing, and I still have most of it!" 68 360 rusty B'cuda 'vert (GO Fish)13.59@ 98.72 mph 69 340 GTS stock 14.18@ 95.60 mph 01 5.9L Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4x4 01 3.5L 300M 16.23@ 86.97 mph
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: GO_Fish] #1180334
02/19/12 10:41 PM
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I never ran into that problem. i only did one with stock LA manifolds & I used header gaskets on those manifolds when I did

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: BulletBob] #1180335
02/20/12 08:03 AM
02/20/12 08:03 AM
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North Central Florida
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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So what about the cast iron heads? Did they have problems with castings for a while? It seems good, but I have to remember that a lot of these big full size vans or trucks with the magnum motor are in the junkyard for a reason.

If so, what to look for, avoid, etc.

eightlitermopar


Mopar or no car
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180336
02/20/12 09:22 AM
02/20/12 09:22 AM
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Colleyville
3hundred Offline
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Quote:

So what about the cast iron heads? Did they have problems with castings for a while? It seems good, but I have to remember that a lot of these big full size vans or trucks with the magnum motor are in the junkyard for a reason.

If so, what to look for, avoid, etc.

eightlitermopar




I've heard rumors they're all cracked, just not in a critical place. My wife's truck is about to turn over 298,000 miles with no engine trouble. I pulled the 360 out of the other truck with 168,000 miles for the hemi swap, not because it was having any troubles.

Robert


'68 Fury Convertible
'69 300 Convertible
'15 Durango 5.7 Hemi
'16 300 S Hemi
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: 3hundred] #1180337
02/20/12 10:56 AM
02/20/12 10:56 AM
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n.e. pa.
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i have seen and heard about them being cracked, but have never heard about it being a problem.

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: CrAlt] #1180338
02/26/12 03:06 PM
02/26/12 03:06 PM
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Quote:

Why not just keep it simple and swap on some '302 swirl port heads?

Everything you have now will bolt up. No fancy intake or manifolds needed. They are already set up for unleaded gas. And they flow better then the old 318 heads.

Magnum heads are better but if you are keeping the motor stockish i dont think they are worth all the extra crap you have to do to make them fit.




You must keep things in perspective, you're only feeding 318 cubic inches, you don't need a real high CFM head, leave those for the 408 stroker crowd. Pocket ported 302's with a 1.88 intake would be the way I'd go.

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180339
02/26/12 06:50 PM
02/26/12 06:50 PM
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Alton, IL
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go for it , the intakes are cheap.. look for a used crosswinds or a new one. i decent 4 barrl. like a TQ or an avs..thing should run good.. i know my stock 318 ran good with this setup..

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: RalleyA12] #1180340
02/26/12 07:43 PM
02/26/12 07:43 PM
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Grand Haven, MI
patrick Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

Why not just keep it simple and swap on some '302 swirl port heads?

Everything you have now will bolt up. No fancy intake or manifolds needed. They are already set up for unleaded gas. And they flow better then the old 318 heads.

Magnum heads are better but if you are keeping the motor stockish i dont think they are worth all the extra crap you have to do to make them fit.




You must keep things in perspective, you're only feeding 318 cubic inches, you don't need a real high CFM head, leave those for the 408 stroker crowd. Pocket ported 302's with a 1.88 intake would be the way I'd go.





302's don't flow any better than open chambered 318 heads. they'll give you a better combustion chamber, hardened seats, and maybe 1/3-1/2 point compression boost, but heavily worked with 2.02's, they flow about the same on the intake (and worse on the exhaust) than factory magnums. not worth the trouble, IMHO


1976 Spinnaker White Plymouth Duster, /6 A833OD
1986 Silver/Twilight Blue Chrysler 5th Ave HotRod **SOLD!***
2011 Toxic Orange Dodge Charger R/T
2017 Grand Cherokee Overland
2014 Jeep Cherokee Latitude (holy crap, my daughter is driving)
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: patrick] #1180341
02/26/12 11:19 PM
02/26/12 11:19 PM
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Endicott, NY
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bnichols Offline
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i am on my 3rd magnum headed la motor luv it!! will never go back to outdated la heads, my 76 aspen with 43k miles on it i just did the magnum head swap night and day diff woke the lil teen up sounds like a mean teen now lol go for it you waon't be sorry just make sure you have the correct length pushrods 7.625 in length with a hydraulic flat tappet

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: bnichols] #1180342
02/26/12 11:37 PM
02/26/12 11:37 PM
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Alton, IL
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Dakota_Don Offline
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is that the same legnth you use on all your mag swaps?

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: Dakota_Don] #1180343
02/27/12 10:47 PM
02/27/12 10:47 PM
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Tennessee
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classof65 Offline
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I think Patrick needs to speak with Donnie Quinn about whether or not the 302 head flows the same as the other 318 stuff. Much of the "advantage" of the Magnum heads is due to the 1.6 rocker ratio. Let's look at this another way. Find a set of 315 castings (273) have a decent valve job and install them. The port velocity will more than make up for the volume increase of the magnum. Anyone out there got a 318 with magnums in a 74 - 76 A body? What's your ET and what kind of fuel do you have to run?

Just built a .030 over 318 with Sealed Power (el cheapo) pistons, I used the .411 - .399 stock eliminator cam out of our U/SA car, a set of 315 casting heads, a 273 HP cast iron intake, and a quick fuel 650 carb. ET 12.28 on regular pump gas. Granted it's got some gear, but that 75 Dart is HEAVY....

What I am saying is, there are several routes to the same destination, take the path with the least resistance. Oh, by the way, the valves are STOCK DIAMETER 273 jobs....

Peace, Rev. Mopar (Class of 65, 32 time National Record holder in U/SA)

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: Dakota_Don] #1180344
02/28/12 09:29 AM
02/28/12 09:29 AM
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Endicott, NY
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bnichols Offline
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don the ones i have done all came out needing that length pushrod i have seen some guys say they needed longer ones etc but mine were all the same

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads...yay or nay? [Re: 65rbdodge] #1180345
02/28/12 01:15 PM
02/28/12 01:15 PM
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Marlboro, NY, USA
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Quote:

i have seen and heard about them being cracked, but have never heard about it being a problem.




Yeah, every one has cracked exhaust seats, but work fine.

Still, the all-new Australian EQ heads flow like Edelbrocks for 1/2 the price.

The overall Magnum engine "package" has lots of other upgrades, serp. belt / tensioner, much better water pump, etc.

Keeping the OEM (junkyard) SMPI is also easy, and an AWESOME swap.

If you've gotta stay with LA heads (really bucks down), #308 castings (90-92 360) are the winners. "X" intake ports, near-W-2 exhausts.

Rick

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: Rick_Ehrenberg] #1180346
03/07/12 10:06 PM
03/07/12 10:06 PM
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North Central Florida
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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Well, I scoured the junkyard today and came home with a new set of heads. It took forever to get the 154 bolts (insert sarcasm here) off the front of the motor to release the heads, but I did get them.

It was off a 1996 full size dodge van. It was the 8 lug axles (so 3/4 or 1 ton I guess)....

Anyway, From the little I know they are the magnum heads. They look super clean and promising. I got the heads complete with rockers and valve covers for just over $100 bucks. I think for that price it is worth a try.

What can anyone tell me about these heads? Anything I need to know?

I know I need another intake manifold.

I know I need new pushrods...

What about the hydraulic lifters? I assume stock doesn't work, so what do I need to replace them with so I can have oiling through the pushrods?

The casting on it says 302, and the rockers are pedestal mounted, so I am thinking magnum 318.

Any thoughts?

eightlitermopar


Mopar or no car
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180347
03/08/12 12:00 PM
03/08/12 12:00 PM
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dogdays Offline
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Intake manifold? Modification of the existing is possible. Redrilling the heads has also been done.

Lifters? HT2011 Summit, $3.00 each. Sealed Power are a little more, I don't know where the Summit ones come from.

Look in the parts catalog, if they use the same part number for the AMC engines they're the right ones. But generally all 0.904 lifters produced by the aftermarket will be right, unless you get a really old set.

R.

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: dogdays] #1180348
03/17/12 12:51 AM
03/17/12 12:51 AM
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North Central Florida
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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Ok, I have the heads apart and I will be reassembling them this week.

Which head gaskets have you guys for this swap?

MAGNUM OR LA ?

I have seen online stuff say either, but I am wondering what you used and what has worked?

I have the magnum felpro gaskets, but I can get the LA ones if they are better.
Thanks

eightlitermopar


Mopar or no car
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180349
03/17/12 12:49 PM
03/17/12 12:49 PM
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Posts: 3,920
n.e. pa.
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65rbdodge Offline
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i think you can use either head gasket. the only difference is the hole in the LA gasket allowing oil to pass through for rocker shaft oiling. the magnum head does no have the hole for oil so it will just block the hole.

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: 65rbdodge] #1180350
03/17/12 03:01 PM
03/17/12 03:01 PM
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North Central Florida
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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thats what I was thinking. It's hard to figure out when google search turns up both answers.

Looks like the magnum ones are the winner.

eightlitermopar


Mopar or no car
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180351
03/17/12 03:13 PM
03/17/12 03:13 PM
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Endicott, NY
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bnichols Offline
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i have used both this motor i have now has the magnum head gaskets

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: bnichols] #1180352
03/17/12 03:17 PM
03/17/12 03:17 PM
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Kalispell Mt.
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HotRodDave Offline
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The factory magnum head gaskets are pretty thick, I would use the thin mopar LA head gaskets, every little bit of compression will help a lot. The extra oil hole will cause exactly ZERO issues


I am not causing global warming, I am just trying to hold off a impending Ice Age!



Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: HotRodDave] #1180353
03/17/12 07:43 PM
03/17/12 07:43 PM
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North Central Florida
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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Quote:

The factory magnum head gaskets are pretty thick, I would use the thin mopar LA head gaskets, every little bit of compression will help a lot. The extra oil hole will cause exactly ZERO issues






Hmmm...maybe I will use the LA gaskets. I have read that some people have to use sealant or something around the holes?

Should I just slap them on and torque it down?

Another question, and maybe even a request for pictures.

I know that using my 318 flat tappet cam with the magnum heads cause pushrod clearance issues.

Does anyone have a photo of where I will need to clearance the heads so this will work?

thanks! Always learnin' stuff on moparts!

eightlitermopar


Mopar or no car
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180354
03/17/12 08:20 PM
03/17/12 08:20 PM
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dogdays Offline
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Use the MP or Mr. Gasket thin head gaskets, I think they're 1121G, about $20 each.
You could drill and tap the oil hole and install a small setscrew beneath the deck if it bothers you to have that hole.

I thought the problem with pushrod clearance was going the other way, from roller tappet to LA heads without the large holes like the 302s have.

R.

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: dogdays] #1180355
03/18/12 01:31 PM
03/18/12 01:31 PM
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North Central Florida
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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Thanks for the input guys.

It looks like the Mr. Gasket head gaskets are the way I will go. After all, the bump in compression is what I like about this head swap.

I also have a pushrod length tool I will use to see exaclty what length I need for this combo. At that point I will be able to see any potential clearance issues.

I'm getting excited about seeing the difference this will make. Right now the motor runs good, but not fantastic.

Eightlitemopar.


Mopar or no car
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: dogdays] #1180356
03/19/12 08:07 AM
03/19/12 08:07 AM
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Posts: 8,162
USA
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360view Offline
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Do any of the available SB head gaskets have a 4.000 bore or are they all 4.060?

Anyone have "real world" compressed thicknesses for the various head gaskets?

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180357
03/19/12 11:00 AM
03/19/12 11:00 AM
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Grand Haven, MI
patrick Offline
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Grand Haven, MI
Quote:

Thanks for the input guys.

It looks like the Mr. Gasket head gaskets are the way I will go. After all, the bump in compression is what I like about this head swap.

I also have a pushrod length tool I will use to see exaclty what length I need for this combo. At that point I will be able to see any potential clearance issues.

I'm getting excited about seeing the difference this will make. Right now the motor runs good, but not fantastic.

Eightlitemopar.




I used these .028" thick Mr. gasket head gaskets on mine


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Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: patrick] #1180358
10/20/12 12:42 AM
10/20/12 12:42 AM
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North Central Florida
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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This is an update from last spring.

I decided to wait to pull the motor until this fall. We took several family road trips over the summer and it ran well.

I now have the hunk of grease out of the car. The drivers motor mount is completely separated!

I have the magnum heads and intake, now I just need to break into the motor to see what lurks underneath.

Since this motor does not burn ANY oil and it has good power, I don't plan on doing fresh rings unless someone can really convince me otherwise. If I am going to dump a lot of money into something, I will go with a true magnum motor or a big block.
During this "freshen up" I plan on replacing:
1) All gaskets
2) New Water pump (to go along with a new radiator since the stock one is starting to leak)
3) New Oil Pump
4) New Camshaft : The cam now is visibly worn on the lobes
5) New Timing Chain.

Anything I am missig here? Any suggestions?

Anyway, that is my current update if anyone is interested!

eightlitermopar

7428190-June2012002.jpg (326 downloads)

Mopar or no car
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180359
02/16/13 09:32 PM
02/16/13 09:32 PM
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North Central Florida
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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Here is some updated progress for anyone who is interested. I'll be ordering the pushrods soon, then it's almost done!

eightlitermopar

7590991-engine001.jpg (200 downloads)

Mopar or no car
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180360
02/17/13 01:56 AM
02/17/13 01:56 AM
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 6,167
Maryland
GO_Fish Offline
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Maryland
Looking good! You may want to mock up the alternator and see how it fits. I'm running a LA 360 with Magnum heads... Front of the motor is off the original '68 318. I'm running a later model "square back" alternator, and it was necessary to grind the front end of the passenger Magnum head for the alternator to fit right. If you are using the '69 style alternator you may or may not have this problem, but easier to check and remedy before the engine goes back in.


Scott B. "I'm a self-made man... I started with nothing, and I still have most of it!" 68 360 rusty B'cuda 'vert (GO Fish)13.59@ 98.72 mph 69 340 GTS stock 14.18@ 95.60 mph 01 5.9L Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4x4 01 3.5L 300M 16.23@ 86.97 mph
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: GO_Fish] #1180361
02/17/13 02:14 AM
02/17/13 02:14 AM
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North Central Florida
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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Quote:

Looking good! You may want to mock up the alternator and see how it fits. I'm running a LA 360 with Magnum heads... Front of the motor is off the original '68 318. I'm running a later model "square back" alternator, and it was necessary to grind the front end of the passenger Magnum head for the alternator to fit right. If you are using the '69 style alternator you may or may not have this problem, but easier to check and remedy before the engine goes back in.




Thanks! Mocking up the front of the engine and components is next, as I am waiting for a pushrod length checking tool and a solid lifter to get here. If I may ask, what length pushrods are you using? Hydraulic lifters? I didn't think it would be so complicated to determine what lifters to use...

eight


Mopar or no car
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180362
02/17/13 11:58 AM
02/17/13 11:58 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,255
Columbus, GA
Michael Ecks Offline
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Quote:

Another question, and maybe even a request for pictures.

I know that using my 318 flat tappet cam with the magnum heads cause pushrod clearance issues.

Does anyone have a photo of where I will need to clearance the heads so this will work?





Did anyone ever chime in on this. I've got a similar swap planned and I'm eagerly watching for updates on your set up to help figure mine out.

What are you planning on using for valve covers? IIRC old style LA covers won't clear the magnum rockers without modifying the baffles.



"The happiness of your life depends upon the quality of
your thoughts" ~ Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180363
02/17/13 02:47 PM
02/17/13 02:47 PM
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Maryland
GO_Fish Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

Looking good! You may want to mock up the alternator and see how it fits. I'm running a LA 360 with Magnum heads... Front of the motor is off the original '68 318. I'm running a later model "square back" alternator, and it was necessary to grind the front end of the passenger Magnum head for the alternator to fit right. If you are using the '69 style alternator you may or may not have this problem, but easier to check and remedy before the engine goes back in.




Thanks! Mocking up the front of the engine and components is next, as I am waiting for a pushrod length checking tool and a solid lifter to get here. If I may ask, what length pushrods are you using? Hydraulic lifters? I didn't think it would be so complicated to determine what lifters to use...

eight


I put mine together several years ago when the MP push rods were still available. They are a little noisy, but no problems to this date. I had no push rod clearance issues, but I did check it when it was on the engine stand during assembly. I have stock '68 318 valve covers bolted to the Magnum heads, no clearance problems or modification required.

Last edited by GO_Fish; 02/17/13 02:49 PM.

Scott B. "I'm a self-made man... I started with nothing, and I still have most of it!" 68 360 rusty B'cuda 'vert (GO Fish)13.59@ 98.72 mph 69 340 GTS stock 14.18@ 95.60 mph 01 5.9L Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4x4 01 3.5L 300M 16.23@ 86.97 mph
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: GO_Fish] #1180364
03/18/13 02:31 PM
03/18/13 02:31 PM
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Posts: 1,630
North Central Florida
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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I have a question about putting this motor together regarding the pushrods and valves opening.

Ok, so I finally measured very carefully and I am installing pushrods today.

I ended up using a thin head gasket, so my “zero lash” length for my pushrods was 7.543.

According to Comps website, I could calculate .020 - .070 preload with my hydraulic lifters. (The lifters and pushrods are both Comp)

I ended up going with an even number at 7.600 for pushrod length.

However, when I tighten down the rocker arms, I can see the valve opening. This happens on the valves that are supposed to be closed (the cam lobe is on the “closed” side)

These cam and lifters are used previously (together) and so I am wondering if I just need the lifters to “bleed down” ?

What am I missing here? I hate to button this up and have problems when I first fire it up. Please help

Eightlitermopar


Mopar or no car
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180365
04/08/13 11:48 PM
04/08/13 11:48 PM
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North Central Florida
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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Since I have a pet peeve about people not letting us know updates, here is an update on my project.

I figured out the valves opening. I let it bleed down over night and it seems to be ok now. We will see when I go to fire it up.

I have the motor together, combined with the transmission and it is in the car.

I am bolting on the accessories and it’s been tricky to get all the “LA motor” stuff onto the motor with the magnum heads.

I did have to shave part of the passenger head and get a slightly longer belt to get the alternator to fit. I had to go slightly into the core plug but it did not penetrate. That made me kind of nervous, but I believe it will be ok.

Next is the power steering pump, and it looks like it will also hit the head. I may have to shave one of the mounting pads off the head to get it to clear. Has anyone else had this issue with these LA magnum 318’s ?

I will post some pictures tomorrow.

Anyway, for anyone who is interested….

Eightlitermopar


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Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180366
04/09/13 09:19 AM
04/09/13 09:19 AM
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Florida
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scratchnfotraction Offline
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thanks for taking time to still update this project.

the LA to mag head fitment of the alt/brackets along with the PS pump are what I need to see.


Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: scratchnfotraction] #1180367
04/09/13 11:00 AM
04/09/13 11:00 AM
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Colorado
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denfireguy Offline
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Quote:

thanks for taking time to still update this project.

the LA to mag head fitment of the alt/brackets along with the PS pump are what I need to see.




I put an LA front onto an Engine Quest Magnum casting head (CH318) that was drilled for an LA intake. To clear the alternator bracket, I had to grind off part of the mounting boss on the front of the head. Took about 30 minutes and the alternator and bracket cleared. Originally, I modified the bracket but the head still was too close to the alternator and the heat destroyed the alternator. Now there is a half inch gap and that is enough to let the alternator live. The Power steering pump went in with no issues at all.
Originally I was going to put the EQ heads on my original LA but wound up buying a 5.2L for the bottom end instead.
Craig


2014 Ram 1500 Laramie, 73 Cuda
Previous mopars: 62 Valiant, 65 Fury III, 68 Fury III, 72 Satellite, 74 Satellite, 89 Acclaim, 98 Caravan, 2003 Durango
Only previous Non-Mopar: Schwinn Tornado
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: denfireguy] #1180368
04/09/13 11:08 AM
04/09/13 11:08 AM
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Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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Lincoln Nebraska
Quote:

but wound up buying a 5.2L for the bottom end instead.


Craig what's the advantage of the mag short clock over the LA one? I'm a mag newbie (just bought my first one a 94 I believe complete eng for $75 from a guy moving out of state). I'm getting that the balance/bell face/mounts are the same


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: RapidRobert] #1180369
04/09/13 12:37 PM
04/09/13 12:37 PM
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dogdays Offline
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The 5.2 Mag motor is internally balanced, probably has a 9.577-578" deck, and uses pistons that are reportedly lighter than the 590 gram 318 pistons. Rods are forgings, probably very similar to the 645 rods that were in every smallblock after about 1973, and the crank is cast but very durable as all 3.31" stroke cranks are.

R.

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: dogdays] #1180370
04/09/13 01:02 PM
04/09/13 01:02 PM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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Thanks Dog & last Q what is the advertized CR/deck height on it?


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Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: RapidRobert] #1180371
04/09/13 01:23 PM
04/09/13 01:23 PM
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North Central Florida
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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Here are some photos of the head clearance issues.

As far as the power steering goes, you can see me pointing out the "nubbin" that is getting in the way.

7661045-001.jpg (131 downloads)

Mopar or no car
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180372
04/09/13 01:24 PM
04/09/13 01:24 PM
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North Central Florida
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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Here is a side view. You can see the part needed to be ground off just below the head bolt.

7661048-002.jpg (151 downloads)

Mopar or no car
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180373
04/09/13 01:26 PM
04/09/13 01:26 PM
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North Central Florida
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Here is the pump installed. The attached steel line in resting on the "trouble spot" in the picture. At this point, the pump needs to go down. It is sitting to high for the belt adjustment at this point.

7661054-003.jpg (92 downloads)
Last edited by eightlitermopar; 04/09/13 01:34 PM.

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Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180374
04/09/13 01:27 PM
04/09/13 01:27 PM
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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Another pic....

7661056-004.jpg (129 downloads)

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Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180375
04/09/13 01:30 PM
04/09/13 01:30 PM
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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For those interested, this is a picture of the alternator. I had to get a slightly longer belt and grind the head corner on an angle. The higher I adjusted, the more gap I got.

This is about max for what I have to work with.

As I loosen the belt, the back of the alternator hits the head. I didn't want to grind any more since I was already partially into the core plug edge.

7661065-005.jpg (129 downloads)

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Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180376
04/09/13 01:37 PM
04/09/13 01:37 PM
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Grand Haven, MI
patrick Offline
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Quote:

Since I have a pet peeve about people not letting us know updates, here is an update on my project.

I figured out the valves opening. I let it bleed down over night and it seems to be ok now. We will see when I go to fire it up.

I have the motor together, combined with the transmission and it is in the car.

I am bolting on the accessories and it’s been tricky to get all the “LA motor” stuff onto the motor with the magnum heads.

I did have to shave part of the passenger head and get a slightly longer belt to get the alternator to fit. I had to go slightly into the core plug but it did not penetrate. That made me kind of nervous, but I believe it will be ok.

Next is the power steering pump, and it looks like it will also hit the head. I may have to shave one of the mounting pads off the head to get it to clear. Has anyone else had this issue with these LA magnum 318’s ?

I will post some pictures tomorrow.

Anyway, for anyone who is interested….

Eightlitermopar




when I did mine in my M body, I had to modify the alternator bracket, and then space all my accessories out about 3/16" of an inch for the alternator to clear...PS fit fine


1976 Spinnaker White Plymouth Duster, /6 A833OD
1986 Silver/Twilight Blue Chrysler 5th Ave HotRod **SOLD!***
2011 Toxic Orange Dodge Charger R/T
2017 Grand Cherokee Overland
2014 Jeep Cherokee Latitude (holy crap, my daughter is driving)
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: scratchnfotraction] #1180377
04/09/13 01:39 PM
04/09/13 01:39 PM
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Grand Haven, MI
patrick Offline
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Quote:

thanks for taking time to still update this project.

the LA to mag head fitment of the alt/brackets along with the PS pump are what I need to see.






mag heads have the accessory holes in the same spot as LA, but they're all on the same plane, where as on an LA, the lower-outer one is recessed back IIRC about 1/2" or so...


1976 Spinnaker White Plymouth Duster, /6 A833OD
1986 Silver/Twilight Blue Chrysler 5th Ave HotRod **SOLD!***
2011 Toxic Orange Dodge Charger R/T
2017 Grand Cherokee Overland
2014 Jeep Cherokee Latitude (holy crap, my daughter is driving)
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: RapidRobert] #1180378
04/09/13 03:28 PM
04/09/13 03:28 PM
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denfireguy Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

but wound up buying a 5.2L for the bottom end instead.


Craig what's the advantage of the mag short clock over the LA one? I'm a mag newbie (just bought my first one a 94 I believe complete eng for $75 from a guy moving out of state). I'm getting that the balance/bell face/mounts are the same


The main reason for me was the roller lifters. With zinc missing from oil, I did not want to be worried about flat lobes. Also, the short block was 110,000 miles fresher and available for 100 bucks.


2014 Ram 1500 Laramie, 73 Cuda
Previous mopars: 62 Valiant, 65 Fury III, 68 Fury III, 72 Satellite, 74 Satellite, 89 Acclaim, 98 Caravan, 2003 Durango
Only previous Non-Mopar: Schwinn Tornado
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180379
04/09/13 03:48 PM
04/09/13 03:48 PM
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Florida
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scratchnfotraction Offline
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Quote:

Here is the pump installed. The attached steel line in resting on the "trouble spot" in the picture. At this point, the pump needs to go down. It is sitting to high for the belt adjustment at this point.




thanks for the pics,they are worth a 1000 words.

I notice you have the early T-cover/WP/PS pump

maybe this is why others do not have a fitment issue with the PS pump.

are the early and later model non a/c brackets different?

either way,after "seeing" the issues it is much more clear as to what I would need to do. thank you.

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: scratchnfotraction] #1180380
04/09/13 04:48 PM
04/09/13 04:48 PM
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North Central Florida
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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I have some other (later) power steering pumps, that I may see if I can get to work before I start grinding metal. I also have a bigger radiator out of a 1969 coronet AC car. I am going to see it I can get that to work as well.

Everything on this motor is the 1969 stuff. The only things changed on the outside is the heads, valve covers and intake. This swap may be easier if I had other timing covers, brackets, etc?

I knew this would be a learning experience.

However, today it is 34 degrees outside with a 20mph wind, and I don't have a garage....so....it may have to wait until my next day off!

eightlitermopar


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Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180381
04/09/13 05:11 PM
04/09/13 05:11 PM
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denfireguy Offline
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It is colder over here on the other side of the mountains: 16. As stated before, I did not have an issue with the power steering on a 73 LA setup. I also went to an electric fuel pump since I put the 5.L magnum in.
I did a lot of research like you are doing before I bought the magnum heads. I was fully prepared to put them on my old 318 but before I could even clean the old block up, the 1992 5.2 showed up so I jumped at it. So far, no regrets.
Patrick is a good source (and for me a great help) for all things 318/5.2L.
Craig


2014 Ram 1500 Laramie, 73 Cuda
Previous mopars: 62 Valiant, 65 Fury III, 68 Fury III, 72 Satellite, 74 Satellite, 89 Acclaim, 98 Caravan, 2003 Durango
Only previous Non-Mopar: Schwinn Tornado
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: denfireguy] #1180382
04/09/13 10:32 PM
04/09/13 10:32 PM
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North Central Florida
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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Quote:

It is colder over here on the other side of the mountains: 16. As stated before, I did not have an issue with the power steering on a 73 LA setup. I also went to an electric fuel pump since I put the 5.L magnum in.
I did a lot of research like you are doing before I bought the magnum heads. I was fully prepared to put them on my old 318 but before I could even clean the old block up, the 1992 5.2 showed up so I jumped at it. So far, no regrets.
Patrick is a good source (and for me a great help) for all things 318/5.2L.
Craig




16 Degrees?! Brrr... I need a garage bad.

I would like to put a newer 5.2 or 5.9 into my old ride at some point, but this is what I have right now. I would really like the overdrive trasmission too!

I looked at several of my old power steering pumps (I have 4 or 5), and the easiest thing would be to grind the "nubbin" off. I froze my own nubbins off in the process, but this is what turned up.

I have not painted it yet, I will wait for a less windy and much warmer day.

I do have some concern with my accessories being so close to the head, I have a small auxillary tranny cooler (B & M super cooler) I may run some power steering fluid through.

I am still trying to decide if my minimal clearance to my alternator is going to cause problems....

Anyway...here is the latest!

7661813-magnum001.jpg (141 downloads)

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Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: denfireguy] #1180383
04/10/13 08:19 AM
04/10/13 08:19 AM
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Grand Haven, MI
patrick Offline
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Quote:

It is colder over here on the other side of the mountains: 16. As stated before, I did not have an issue with the power steering on a 73 LA setup. I also went to an electric fuel pump since I put the 5.L magnum in.
I did a lot of research like you are doing before I bought the magnum heads. I was fully prepared to put them on my old 318 but before I could even clean the old block up, the 1992 5.2 showed up so I jumped at it. So far, no regrets.
Patrick is a good source (and for me a great help) for all things 318/5.2L.
Craig




yeah, I didn't have any PS clearance issues in my '86 5th ave...


1976 Spinnaker White Plymouth Duster, /6 A833OD
1986 Silver/Twilight Blue Chrysler 5th Ave HotRod **SOLD!***
2011 Toxic Orange Dodge Charger R/T
2017 Grand Cherokee Overland
2014 Jeep Cherokee Latitude (holy crap, my daughter is driving)
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: patrick] #1180384
04/10/13 11:36 PM
04/10/13 11:36 PM
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Tampa, FL
tpabayflyer Offline
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Anybody wanting to do this please search my screen name and see my success using magnum heads on a 318..... The best choice in my opinion for the money and will wake up any 318 big time...... 300HP easy with the right combo...... TBF........ Very easy.........


71 Challenger 528 Hemi project
09 Gr Cherokee 5.7 hemi in da house!!
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: tpabayflyer] #1180385
04/13/13 11:42 PM
04/13/13 11:42 PM
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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Got the radiator back in today after making a few minor repairs.

I am upgrading from my dinky 4 blade solid fan to a 5 blade with a fan clutch. It is much bigger and closer to the upper radiator hose.

Everything has been much closer on this motor with this upgrade!

eightlitermopar

7667125-magnum010.jpg (128 downloads)

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Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180386
04/13/13 11:43 PM
04/13/13 11:43 PM
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North Central Florida
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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another view

7667127-magnum011.jpg (144 downloads)

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Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180387
04/14/13 12:15 AM
04/14/13 12:15 AM
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Florida
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you can find a smaller diam. blade for the clutch. they have 16/17/18 ect...

I happen to find the size i needed at the u-pull on a striaght 6 amc hornet 7 blades and fit the inside the stock rad shroud on my truck.

if the rubber motor mounts flex much it might get a water leak.

measure the diam. of the fan blade end to blade end,I will check to see if I have a smaller one in my junk pile.

how close is the clutch from the rad core?

are you going to run a shroud?

you can find shorter longer fan clutch shafts as well when uprading.

looks like it is moving along bolting together.

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: scratchnfotraction] #1180388
04/14/13 12:41 AM
04/14/13 12:41 AM
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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This was a fan clutch and 5 blade out of a 71 satellite with a 318. The motor is a 1985, so I don't know what the original blade and clutch came out of.

I'll measure it sometime tomorrow to see what the diameter is.

I will not be using a shroud at this time, since the tiny radiator does not have provision for one. I am going to run this radiator this year and replace it with a bigger aluminum unit next spring.

I am not sure of the exact fan measurement from the radiator, but its probably between 1-2 inches. I'll measure that exactly tomorrow as well.

I have new motor mounts, but the motor torque causing the blade pulling towards the hose has me a little worried. I still could put a torque strap somewhere to limit this

I do have some more tweaking of things to do before I fire it up.

I acquired the lifters from someone I trust who claim they had never been used. However, I am a bit leery of this and have ordered new ones to install before I fire it off.

I know it's a set back but good peace of mind. I have used slightly used lifters with new cams in the past and have never personally had a problem , however, I don't want to shred a new cam in my fresh motor because I cut a corner on lifters.

eightlitermopar


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Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180389
04/14/13 03:29 PM
04/14/13 03:29 PM
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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To answer the questions previously stated,

The fan is a 19 inch viscous fan

The fan clutch is exactly 1-1/4 inch from the radiator.

I may have to downsize the fan size so I don't blow anything up


eightlitermopar


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Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180390
04/14/13 10:23 PM
04/14/13 10:23 PM
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Florida
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yes,I would go down to an 18" or 17" blade on that clutch.

I would even run a smaller direct drive fan if it moved it away from the rad hose.

IMHO,I have never noticed any difference in HP/performance/MPG on a daily driver/street duty engine running a direct drive fan.

mine is 18"-7 blade fan from the 78 amc hornet 258 6 cyl. might scratch one up at a local JY/U-Pull.

mid 80s model /6 dippy/aspen/volare should have the 18"-5 blade

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: scratchnfotraction] #1180391
04/14/13 11:20 PM
04/14/13 11:20 PM
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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I was able to dig up a fan from my "parts" selection at my dads house. I found a 7 blade 18 inch fan. I mocked it up and it clears a lot better.

I will reuse the bigger fan later when I get a bigger radiator.

The stock fan was a solid 4 blade (18")

I figured I'd upgrade a little while I am at it. If I need to I can always go back to the stock fan.

In the mean time I'll be swapping out lifters this week (I am paranoid) and hopefully have the motor broken in by next week. Somehow my need to go to work all the time gets in the way of this stuff!

eightlitermopar


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Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180392
04/14/13 11:22 PM
04/14/13 11:22 PM
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Lost and Spaced
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bboogieart Offline
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Sounds good. Thanx for keeping us up to date. We are interested.


I have mechanical Aptitude.
I can screw up anything.
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: bboogieart] #1180393
04/15/13 12:53 AM
04/15/13 12:53 AM
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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Since I am to the paranoid part of my project, I’ll throw the question out.

I am going to put new lifters in my motor for peace of mind.

In the past, I used old lifters with new cams (break in to daily driving).

I didn’t want to chance it with this motor…

Has anyone else done this (old lifters, new cam) and had no bad results? I have heard all types of bad stories of swiping lobes because of this, but it’s all hearsay….random stuff on the internet.

So, fact or fiction? What do you say?

P.S. I am changing the lifters with brand new ones regardless.

Eightlitermopar


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Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180394
04/15/13 09:18 AM
04/15/13 09:18 AM
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Grand Haven, MI
patrick Offline
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flat tappet? never re-used lifters, always put in new....roller cam, reused roller lifters without issue


1976 Spinnaker White Plymouth Duster, /6 A833OD
1986 Silver/Twilight Blue Chrysler 5th Ave HotRod **SOLD!***
2011 Toxic Orange Dodge Charger R/T
2017 Grand Cherokee Overland
2014 Jeep Cherokee Latitude (holy crap, my daughter is driving)
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180395
04/15/13 09:31 AM
04/15/13 09:31 AM
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Florida
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Quote:

Since I am to the paranoid part of my project, I’ll throw the question out.

I am going to put new lifters in my motor for peace of mind.

In the past, I used old lifters with new cams (break in to daily driving).

I didn’t want to chance it with this motor…

Has anyone else done this (old lifters, new cam) and had no bad results? I have heard all types of bad stories of swiping lobes because of this, but it’s all hearsay….random stuff on the internet.

So, fact or fiction? What do you say?

P.S. I am changing the lifters with brand new ones regardless.

Eightlitermopar




this is the very reason I upgraded to roller cam in the 318 I have.

no lifter break in needed so no...

I want to swap a cam/lifters/springs in my 440 and have the same paranoid feelings about the break in and it wiping a lobe.

I too have read many horror storys of big $$ engine failures on fire up and break in. most was with a comp cam.

I do know when I was young seeing my uncles swap cams 2-3 times on a good running engine but they always used new cam and lifters.

I personaly have never seen a failure. my first engine i did not even know enuff to do a break in,it ran 10 yrs with no trouble. hammerd it from start up till it droped a valve.

now I have done and read so much I am a paranoid nelly and skeerd to try a cam swap on a flat tappet engine.

all I can say is good luck and 2nd the new lifters over buddys hear say with a new engine.

Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: patrick] #1180396
04/15/13 09:31 AM
04/15/13 09:31 AM
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North Central Florida
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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Quote:

flat tappet? never re-used lifters, always put in new....roller cam, reused roller lifters without issue




I am asking about used flat tappet lifters with a new Cam...


Mopar or no car
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180397
04/15/13 11:13 AM
04/15/13 11:13 AM
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Grand Haven, MI
patrick Offline
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flat tappet, I've heard to ALWAYS use new lifters--the lifters and the cam lobes seat to each other, and bad things could happen even if you mate a used cam to it's broken in lifters IF YOU DON'T KEEP THE LIFTER WITH THE SAME LOBE IT WAS BROKE IN ON

for the small cost, get new lifters...should be what, less than $50?


1976 Spinnaker White Plymouth Duster, /6 A833OD
1986 Silver/Twilight Blue Chrysler 5th Ave HotRod **SOLD!***
2011 Toxic Orange Dodge Charger R/T
2017 Grand Cherokee Overland
2014 Jeep Cherokee Latitude (holy crap, my daughter is driving)
Re: Old 318 with new magnum heads *UPDATE* [Re: patrick] #1180398
04/16/13 12:18 AM
04/16/13 12:18 AM
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North Central Florida
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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Quote:

flat tappet, I've heard to ALWAYS use new lifters--the lifters and the cam lobes seat to each other, and bad things could happen even if you mate a used cam to it's broken in lifters IF YOU DON'T KEEP THE LIFTER WITH THE SAME LOBE IT WAS BROKE IN ON

for the small cost, get new lifters...should be what, less than $50?




the lifters I have are *claimed* to be new, but I don't trust them. Therefore I am buying new ones ($90).


It was more of a curiosity question than anything. It seems there are so many horror stories of wiped lobes, I figured everyone has tried using old lifters at least once

I repeat....new lifters are on the way.... I am not trusting lifters that I suspect are used....

eightlitermopar


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HELP! Magnum head update! [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180399
04/22/13 01:56 PM
04/22/13 01:56 PM
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North Central Florida
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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Ok, so I learned something today.

1) You have to remove the entire intake manifold when removing lifters on an LA motor with magnum heads.

2) There was water in my lifter galley! Look at the pics, it looks like it is leaking from between the heads and the block?

What the heck is going on here??? Heaven forbid anything go easy with a project

eightlitermopar

7677882-magnum001.jpg (162 downloads)

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Re: HELP! Magnum head update! [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180400
04/22/13 01:57 PM
04/22/13 01:57 PM
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North Central Florida
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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Picture # 2

This is a link to the head gaskets I got

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/maaenupto4bo.html

7677883-magnum002.jpg (156 downloads)

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Re: HELP! Magnum head update! [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180401
04/22/13 03:13 PM
04/22/13 03:13 PM
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Posts: 16,123
Grand Haven, MI
patrick Offline
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-1121g/overview/make/dodge

these are what I used on mine, put them on dry, and torqued with the proper pattern and had no issues with coolant leaking....


1976 Spinnaker White Plymouth Duster, /6 A833OD
1986 Silver/Twilight Blue Chrysler 5th Ave HotRod **SOLD!***
2011 Toxic Orange Dodge Charger R/T
2017 Grand Cherokee Overland
2014 Jeep Cherokee Latitude (holy crap, my daughter is driving)
Re: HELP! Magnum head update! [Re: patrick] #1180402
04/22/13 03:52 PM
04/22/13 03:52 PM
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eightlitermopar Offline OP
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Here is some update....pulled the driver head. This is before I pulled the gasket.

7678095-magnum003.jpg (153 downloads)

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Re: HELP! Magnum head update! [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180403
04/22/13 03:53 PM
04/22/13 03:53 PM
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after the gasket is off....

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Re: HELP! Magnum head update! [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180404
04/22/13 03:54 PM
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The head surface....

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Re: HELP! Magnum head update! [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180405
04/22/13 03:55 PM
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Another block angle.... Could the intake be leaking and make it look like the head is leaking? I kind of doubt it....but....

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Re: HELP! Magnum head update! [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180406
04/22/13 03:59 PM
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If the gaskets are crap...I do have some felpro gaskets. 8553 PT.

I understand these are around .045-.055 thick.

I also have the felpro gaskets for the magnum gasket set. These are a whopping .080 thick.

I have already done the math for the exact pushrods, so I really don't want to go any thicker, because then I would need other pushrods.....

I'm about ready to cover the car and check back next spring...


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Re: HELP! Magnum head update! [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180407
04/22/13 04:07 PM
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I'd clean the deck/head surfaces & check the new head gaskets for any debris/imperfections that might cause a leak & bottom tap the head bolt holes especially the top ones on the inside where it was leaking then go together & borrow a rad pump tool & pump it up to 15 lbs & see if it holds psi before you add any coolant & make sure the holes are tapped deep enough for the head bolts you are using


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Re: HELP! Magnum head update! [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180408
04/22/13 04:09 PM
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Quote:

Another block angle.... Could the intake be leaking and make it look like the head is leaking? I kind of doubt it....but....




after having to do my first barrel keg intake gaskets 3x in 1 day to get it to seal.

I wager big on it is the intake gaskets.

the intake only torques to 144 inch pounds in 2 steps 72/144 no more/no less.

it just runs along the head gasket edge and puddles up. if it leaks it has 4 corners to let it in the crank case. only flows thru the front end but has 4 ports on the heads.

IIRC, they bolts maybe a torque to yield bolts and not reused. i re-used mine all 4x

nothing like the old LA intake ham fisting it tight as you can with a 3/8 ratchet/boxedend wrench.

I am wondering how the hughes ramheads with LA bolt patter seal up compaired to a mag intake bolt pattern. i have seen way tony mag intakes leak water.

Re: HELP! Magnum head update! [Re: scratchnfotraction] #1180409
04/22/13 05:02 PM
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I drained the fluid from the block. There is no water in the cylinders when I pulled the head, just in the lifter galley.

So....do I dare reuse the gaskets I have then? I hate redoing everything several times and I haven't even started the motor!

How do I know if the intake has sealed before putting water in it?

Just the Rad pump tool?

I have heard people say these crosswind manifolds can leak. What is the trick to get them to seal up?

eightlitermopar


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Re: HELP! Magnum head update! [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180410
04/22/13 06:19 PM
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New head/intake gaskets. Yes the rad tool to see if it holds pressure. Some end rail gaskets are too thick & can hold the intake up a hair making one or both of the front cooling ports leak (use a wide carefully placed swath of silicone front & rear instead) & not sure if it's leaking in the front cooling port(s) & drifting rearward along the valley as seen in the pics or if it's one of the closer to the valley edges of the block deck. Not sure what to suggest on the integrity of the crosswind intake. You want this done once & for all & I'd take the block/heads to your machinist & see if they're flat then purchase some new gaskets then check the bolts/bolt holes & see what you need to do to have the intake checked out & button it up & pressure check it & cross your fingers. Holler how it goes. EDIT You could have the sides of the intake milled slightly to true them up & custom thicker gaskets may or may not then be required. You wouldn't know till you mocked up the intake/current intake gaskets on the long block & checked port/bolt alignment

Last edited by RapidRobert; 04/22/13 06:28 PM.

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Re: HELP! Magnum head update! [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180411
04/22/13 09:41 PM
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Quote:

I drained the fluid from the block. There is no water in the cylinders when I pulled the head, just in the lifter galley.

So....do I dare reuse the gaskets I have then? I hate redoing everything several times and I haven't even started the motor!

How do I know if the intake has sealed before putting water in it?

Just the Rad pump tool?

I have heard people say these crosswind manifolds can leak. What is the trick to get them to seal up?

eightlitermopar




what i see in the very first pic is a torn up intake gasket at a water port. I would not re-use a magnum intake gasket.

next pic.. the rusted water port matches the fresh rust along edge of head gasket. but shows no sign of a leak on block or gasket.

what about the head surfaces?

next pic.. thats a nasty gash/nick/crack/something?/ in the block on #6 hole.

also looks like you can follow rusted water trail up along block/head gasket edge to water port around #7 hole.

again,I wager intake water leak and flash rusting.

Last edited by scratchnfotraction; 04/22/13 09:43 PM.
Re: HELP! Magnum head update! [Re: scratchnfotraction] #1180412
04/22/13 09:52 PM
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BAZINGA!! why would the the oil passage that is blocked with magnum heads have rust in the passage?? (I thought it was water passage at first)

I think the head gasket might be the problem here.. maybe both.

you have the LA head gasket with the open hole for LA style oiling to rockers and a magnum head gasket does not have the hole punched.

the oi pressure might have started a leak to the water passage and on a shut down would then let water into oil passage.

look at the gasket real close around the LA oil passage to the rockers, which is rust coated as far as i can see down inside.

do you have oil in the rad or coolent system?


Last edited by scratchnfotraction; 04/22/13 10:04 PM.
Re: HELP! Magnum head update! [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180413
04/22/13 09:56 PM
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Quote:

after the gasket is off....




I see what looks to be where the water leak was. zoom in around the water port and oil passage to the LA rockers.

see the water stain bleeding over into the oil passage???

oil pressure with no where to go most likly wicked/seeped over to the water passage. IMO

gasket with no hole would be a better seal here, it wont let oil to both edges/sides of gasket blocking off the oil PSI

Last edited by scratchnfotraction; 04/22/13 09:59 PM.
Re: HELP! Magnum head update! [Re: scratchnfotraction] #1180414
04/23/13 10:15 AM
04/23/13 10:15 AM
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Quote:

Quote:

after the gasket is off....




I see what looks to be where the water leak was. zoom in around the water port and oil passage to the LA rockers.

see the water stain bleeding over into the oil passage???

oil pressure with no where to go most likly wicked/seeped over to the water passage. IMO

gasket with no hole would be a better seal here, it wont let oil to both edges/sides of gasket blocking off the oil PSI




LA head gaskets work fine on magnum heads. even if the hole is in the gasket, it dead-ends to nothing on the head surface. I had no issues using the Mr. Gasket LA head gasket on my magnum. I'd put my on the intake manifold leaking. maybe upgrade to some good grade 5 or grade 8 bolts for the intake manifold to be able to tighten down better?

I didn't have any problems, but I had redrilled my heads to LA bolt pattern and ran an LA edelbrock air gap on my magnum heads.


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Re: HELP! Magnum head update! [Re: patrick] #1180415
04/23/13 11:03 AM
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Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

after the gasket is off....




I see what looks to be where the water leak was. zoom in around the water port and oil passage to the LA rockers.

see the water stain bleeding over into the oil passage???

oil pressure with no where to go most likly wicked/seeped over to the water passage. IMO

gasket with no hole would be a better seal here, it wont let oil to both edges/sides of gasket blocking off the oil PSI




LA head gaskets work fine on magnum heads. even if the hole is in the gasket, it dead-ends to nothing on the head surface. I had no issues using the Mr. Gasket LA head gasket on my magnum. I'd put my on the intake manifold leaking. maybe upgrade to some good grade 5 or grade 8 bolts for the intake manifold to be able to tighten down better?

I didn't have any problems, but I had redrilled my heads to LA bolt pattern and ran an LA edelbrock air gap on my magnum heads.




I would agree with that also.

why would the oil passage be rusted if it was not leaking water into it?

it does look like a water stain on the block at the water port/oil passage to me. leading me to think head gasket leak.

if it was only the intake gasket leaking it would not have rust in the oil passage.

looking at the pics,I see rust/water/tracks high in the corner at head gasket edge by #7 cyl leading me to an intake gasket.



I would be more worried about rust in the oil passage. sure sign of water to me.

Re: HELP! Magnum head update! [Re: scratchnfotraction] #1180416
04/23/13 11:32 AM
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Is this the passage we are talking about?

I have not had any oil in the motor yet.

I have reorderd some MR. Gasket head gaskets to replace these ones. However, there was no water in the cylinders. The water in the pictures is from the heads themselves when removed.

I will have a rad pressure tool this weekend to see if there are any leaks before I put fill the block with water again...

I don't know really what to do at this point, other than that...

The head bolts are the correct ones.

The intake bolts are grade 8, so I am not worried about reusing them.

I really agree that the culprit here is a leaking intake. When I reassemble, I may opt to eliminate the rear and front gasket and just do a smear of silicone or equivalent.

Any other ideas?

eight

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Re: HELP! Magnum head update! [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180417
04/23/13 11:37 AM
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clean the deck/head surfaces well but dont let any debris go into any of the holes or the cyls. You'd need it all put back together so you can pump it up to 15 lbs. Myself I'd have the intake flatness checked. Holler how thing go


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Re: HELP! Magnum head update! [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180418
04/23/13 04:10 PM
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Quote:

Is this the passage we are talking about?

I have not had any oil in the motor yet.

I have reorderd some MR. Gasket head gaskets to replace these ones. However, there was no water in the cylinders. The water in the pictures is from the heads themselves when removed.

I will have a rad pressure tool this weekend to see if there are any leaks before I put fill the block with water again...

I don't know really what to do at this point, other than that...

The head bolts are the correct ones.

The intake bolts are grade 8, so I am not worried about reusing them.

I really agree that the culprit here is a leaking intake. When I reassemble, I may opt to eliminate the rear and front gasket and just do a smear of silicone or equivalent.

Any other ideas?

eight




yes thats the hole I see with rust. water had to be in there...that is the oil feed up the block to the LA heads with shaft/rockers

should be no water or rust in that passage even if it only flash rust it had to have been leaking water into the oil passage somewhere. I would think.

I zoom in on the pic and can see a slight stain that looks like a water path to the oil passage-- across from the gash in the block deck surface to the right.

explane the rust in this passage first before going back together would be my advice.

it has nothing to do with the intake gaskets leaking IMHO.

Re: HELP! Magnum head update! [Re: scratchnfotraction] #1180419
04/23/13 09:39 PM
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Quote:


yes thats the hole I see with rust. water had to be in there...that is the oil feed up the block to the LA heads with shaft/rockers

should be no water or rust in that passage even if it only flash rust it had to have been leaking water into the oil passage somewhere. I would think.

I zoom in on the pic and can see a slight stain that looks like a water path to the oil passage-- across from the gash in the block deck surface to the right.

explane the rust in this passage first before going back together would be my advice.

it has nothing to do with the intake gaskets leaking IMHO.





Hmm....I see that. It's hard to say. I have been putting this motor together carefully for the last 4-5 months...literally. A little here and a little there...as time allows.

I did pressure wash the bare block, I did dry it off with the air gun, but the block was upside down for a while in the shop after this. Maybe that is where the water settled from that?

All I can do is speculate at this time. I honestly don't know. This is my first motor done entirely by me....so it's been a learning process. All my other motors have been big blocks too...so this is foreign to me.

Sincerly thanks to everyone for helping me along!

As far as that gash goes, it was present when I pulled the head. It was all stock from ma mopar at that point. It held good pressure prior to disassembly, even with that being so close to the sealing ring area.

I thought a little JB weld or something to level it off? Where it worked before, I didn't want to do anything to jeopardize what worked before.

I will have some time tomorrow and I am expecting my new head gaskets. I will carefully reassemble and see what my rad pressure test tells me this weekend.

It sucks I had to redo stuff, but I am glad I found it this way instead of tearing up a new cam because of water in the oil

eight.


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Sealing the magnum heads... [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180420
04/25/13 04:08 PM
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Ok, so I have the heads back on with the new head gaskets.

I cleaned the head and block surfaces very carefully and thoroughly.

So here is my question regarding the intake.

From reading, many have had problems with water jacket sealing, and it sometimes takes several attempts.

What can I do to ensure success at this point?

Eliminate the front and rear cork gasket?

Silicone around water jackets before applying the gasket?

Install the gasket dry? (Does silicone cause failure with these felpro gaskets?)

I have new gaskets, as the old ones were ripped and torn from removal. They are really stuck on there, this is why I am surprised I had a leak!

I also have the grade 8 intake bolts. Could I tighten it more that the 144 inch pounds with torque to yield bolts?

Thanks for the input

Eightlitermopar


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Re: Sealing the magnum heads... [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180421
04/25/13 05:22 PM
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I would eliminate the front/rear cork gaskets & use a wide carefully placed swath of silicone front/rear on squeaky clean surfaces & let it sit up overnight but if your supplied front/rear gaskets are thin you would be fine & alot of people have had no issues. It's a judgement call. I would use a bit of gasket cement on both sides of the gasket cooling hole opening in the front of the gaskets on each bank. Either the correct color (blue?) of silicone made for coolant contact or some other gasket cement (Indian head would work fine) or permatex 1 or 2 in the toothpaste like tube, it ain't critical. Grade 8 bolts would need to be torqued to what ever that dia of grade 8 bolt requires since you need a certain amount of bolt stretch & that's dependant on grade/dia & I'm sure that'll be different than the 12 ft lbs specified for the TTY magnum intake bolts & is somewhat dependant on the part/gasket in question that's being compressed & there was a mention of the vertical angle needing less torque for some odd reason, maybe someone has some info on that if that's relevant here. Let it all sit up overnight/cross your fingers/pump it up to 15 lbs/holler back


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Re: Sealing the magnum heads... [Re: RapidRobert] #1180422
04/25/13 09:10 PM
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72 inch pounds in the corret torque pattern then 144 inch pounds around the correct torque pattern again.

that was my problem,I could not get past how little of a torque spec the magnum intake bolt angle needs.

I over torqued it 3x, the 4x I just sneaked up on the 72 and then the 144 inch pounds. and it sealed.

i think with the angle of the heads/intake flange the bolts pull the intake straight down and it uncovers the bottom of the water ports from what i can tell.

every dodge dealer tech I talk with said do them dry and no more than 144 inch pounds. it is very important to NOT over torque the bolts.

one of the reason the bolt diameter is so small is it does not need a lot of torque like the LA intakes.

the magnum kinda slides down into the valley and the LA intake clamps gasket to the head surface.

all I can add is dont over torque and good luck.

Re: Sealing the magnum heads... [Re: scratchnfotraction] #1180423
04/25/13 10:16 PM
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So, just a thought here.....

Would my torque specs be the same if I am not using a torque to yield bolt?

Would that change since it is a grade 8 bolt?



I plan on doing the 72-144 inch pound method as stated, but it was a question that popped up...

Also, Scratchin... did you use any silicone around the ports, or did you install it dry?

eightlitermopar


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Re: Sealing the magnum heads... [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180424
04/26/13 09:15 AM
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I would think 144 inch pounds is 144 inch pounds = 12 foot pounds on any style bolt.

I wiped the head & intake gasket surface down with brake clean and air dry with airgun.

spary gasket tack on end rail gaskets and do the 4 corners up with rtv, let stand 15 mins then install gaskets/intake dry with no sealer around water ports.

if you dont have a 1/4 drive inch pound torque wrench,you should find one to use.IMHO.

I did on #4 try and it may have helped. I used a 3/8 drive torque wrench clocked to 6 foot punds and again at 12 foot pounds.

the 3/8 to 1/4 drive adaptor might not have helped either.

good luck

Re: Sealing the magnum heads... [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180425
04/27/13 11:44 AM
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Quote:

So, just a thought here.....

Would my torque specs be the same if I am not using a torque to yield bolt?

Would that change since it is a grade 8 bolt?



I plan on doing the 72-144 inch pound method as stated, but it was a question that popped up...

Also, Scratchin... did you use any silicone around the ports, or did you install it dry?

eightlitermopar




yes...grade 1, grade 5, grade 8, they all stretch the same...that's dependent on the material's modulus of elasticity, and all steel's modulus is essentially the same


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Re: Sealing the magnum heads... [Re: patrick] #1180426
04/27/13 11:23 PM
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Thanks for the answers guys!


So here is the update we have all been anxiously awaiting!

I pressure tested my system up to 16 lbs.

I heard a small leak coming from the radiator.

I put my ear right next to it, under the top tank on the passenger side. This is where the bracket had rattled loose, which we just soldered back into place last week.

I left pressure in it, and it went from 16 lbs to 13-14 range after 15 minutes. I figure a 2-3 lb drop over 15 minutes is a pretty small leak.

My first thought was to run it, but put some stop leak in it. However, I thought I better fix the radiator first to make sure I don’t have any internal engine leaks.

So I may be getting a new radiator before next year!

My stock radiator (without a shroud provision) is actually smaller than the 22” support opening. It is only 19” IIRC. It cooled great though! I was actually impressed.

I thought I could get it fixed, add a core, etc, but that is just throwing money at a small radiator. I also have a 26” for a 69 b body that leaks like nothing else. It will need to be completely re-cored and fixed if I wanted to use that.

I may go with a 3 core, 22” champion aluminum radiator so I can run a shroud and keep it cool no matter what. I know a few people who have run them and have had good luck.

Anyway, I am encouraged by the very slow rate of leak from the radiator. That tells me I am probably safe on the intake leaks at the head.

This project has taken a lot longer than I originally anticipated!

Eightlitermopar


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Re: Sealing the magnum heads... [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180427
04/28/13 12:26 AM
04/28/13 12:26 AM
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Quote:

I heard a small leak coming from the radiator.

I may go with a 3 core, 22” champion aluminum radiator so I can run a shroud on the intake leaks at the head.

This project has taken a lot longer than I originally anticipated!




(1) not acceptable/must be fixed (2) good plan (3) it'll get worse


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Re: Sealing the magnum heads... [Re: RapidRobert] #1180428
05/04/13 12:37 AM
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Ok, so I jumped the gun and got a new radiator.

Champion aluminum 3 core. It looks sweet (especially compared to the old one starting to grow green streaks). It was straight and bolted right in after some minor filing of some corners.

I have it all bolted in and rechecked the system for leaks tonight. It was a quick check done after work with only the dusk to light my work.

Pumped up to 15 lbs and left for 20-25 minutes.

When I came back to check, I discovered the pressure had bled down to 9 lbs in this amount of time. 6 lbs of pressure over 20 minutes.

Several years ago, my younger self would have thrown tools all over the yard. Then, I would just put stop leak in it and run it. However, I have tried to become less “red-neck” over the years and I am actually trying to do it right.

It could be leaking from anywhere…the heads, intake, water pump, water pump housing….

I loosened the alternator bracket several weeks ago, and water started to seep around the water pump housing…just from loose bolts, so I may check this area first. I thought I tightened the radiator pet-cock, but maybe it’s a little loose?

Any ideas on how to discover exactly where the leak is coming from? I don’t want to fill it with water to discover the leak is draining inside my motor again.

I dunno…..maybe I’ll never get to drive this little 318.

Eightlitermopar


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Re: Sealing the magnum heads... [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180429
05/04/13 02:11 AM
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Yes it definitely still has an unsealed leak. Not sure how to proceed but I would check/tighten every external connection in the cooling system & after that the heads may need to be pulled to get at the head gaskets EDIT before pulling the heads you may need to fill it with coolant & fire it up & draw some of the air above the coolant level under the rad cap with the "blok check" kit & see if it turns the fluid from blue to yellow which indicates the presence of combustion gasses in the coolant mix or if you have an emissions testing station nearby if you can persuade them to stick the probe in the air under the cap & the machine will detect combustion gasses if present in seconds.

Last edited by RapidRobert; 05/04/13 02:28 AM.

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Re: Sealing the magnum heads... [Re: RapidRobert] #1180430
05/05/13 12:14 AM
05/05/13 12:14 AM
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Last week when it leaked, I pulled the heads and put new head gaskets on. I really cleaned the surfaces, so I know they are clean. I will tighten everything I can externally, then if I still can't figure it out, I will fill it with water then pressure test it.

If it leaks on the outside of the block, I know whats up. If it leaks internally, then I at least know where to look for my problems.

I really don't want to have to pull those darn heads again! This motor hasn't even been broken in yet!

I am almost tempted to throw my old heads back on and call it!

eightlitermopar


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Re: Sealing the magnum heads... [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180431
05/05/13 10:38 AM
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Actually on a cold eng test pumping it up to 15 lbs with air is just as effective as pumping it up to 15 lbs using water/coolant & air keeps the messy coolant out of there till we find the leak. Adding coolant then firing it up would let you check for combustion gasses which'd pinpoint it to the head gasket/deck surfaces but it'd sure be nice to find/fix the leak before dealing with coolant. I spoke with a shop once about searching for a vacuum leak & they said something about they use a smoke producing machine to introduce smoke to visually spot the leak. It'd sure be nice if you could pump 15 lbs of smoke in there & see where it exited & yes I'd tighten up all coolant connections & pray that that's it & yes with it dropping pressure that quick unfortunitly there there is still a leak somewhere. EDIT Make sure the seal on the rad cap part of the pump kit is clean/wet so that it's not leaking there. A spray bottle of soapy water may help you spot an external air leak (Windex might work) on the hoses etc

Last edited by RapidRobert; 05/05/13 10:42 AM.

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Re: Sealing the magnum heads... [Re: RapidRobert] #1180432
05/06/13 03:36 PM
05/06/13 03:36 PM
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For those of you who are interested... here is the update.

I finally filled the engine with water and pumped up the pressure.

I found a small dribble of a leak at the threaded bypass hose nipple on the intake.

I fixed that and tried again.

I pumped it up to 17 lbs the second time, and lost 1.5 lbs of pressure over an hour.

I discovered a small drip from my new radiator (awesome), but my biggest concern is the beads of water forming along the head gasket.

This is happening on both sides, but more on the driver side. Here is the pictures.

7696014-magnum042.jpg (122 downloads)

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Re: Sealing the magnum heads... [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180433
05/06/13 03:38 PM
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Another view

7696018-magnum043.jpg (119 downloads)

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Re: Sealing the magnum heads... [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180434
05/06/13 03:45 PM
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At this point I think I will retorque all the bolts to 105 ft lbs (again) to see if that makes any difference.

If that doesn't fix it, then the heads will have to come off again.

If the heads come off again, I'm taking them straight to the machine shop to see if they can figure out anything.

I am currently using the MR. Gasket head gaskets (.024-.028 thick).
I do have some felpro permatorque blue gaskets, but if I use these, then it would mess up my measured pushrod length.

So, the good news is....the intake is not leaking.

The bad news is I am going to have to do it again.

Does anyone else have any ideas at this point? It's starting to get old.

eightlitermopar

7696024-magnum044.jpg (57 downloads)

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Re: Sealing the magnum heads... [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180435
05/06/13 10:45 PM
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get some new mr gasket gaskets. check decks/heads for warpage. make sure bolt holes are tapped deep enough. check bolt hole nearby areas for cracks


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Re: Sealing the magnum heads... [Re: RapidRobert] #1180436
05/06/13 10:56 PM
05/06/13 10:56 PM
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Well, good news. I may have freaked out a little too soon.

I retorqued all the head bolts, and the dripping stopped. This is good because this was my second set of cylinder head gaskets and I haven't even fired up the motor.

I applied pressure to the system at 17 lbs. 5 hours later it read 15 lbs.

Note: I do have a small leak in the radiator. One little drip.

After all I have been through, I am ok with this. I will keep everyone posted.

Hopefully I will get it fired up in the next week or two.

eight


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Magnum headed 318 running update! [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180437
05/17/13 08:36 AM
05/17/13 08:36 AM
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Finally! The update we have been waiting for! For those who have been following my magnum drama!

Broke in the cam last night. The motor fired off with no problem and sounded good.

The temperature held steady for the entire duration of the cam break in. No water leaks anywhere, no smoke from the tail pipes. I thought I had a leak from the new radiator, but it didn’t drip a drop during break in.

16 lbs of rock steady vacuum at 2500 RPM.

The only issues encountered:
1) Small pinhole leak in the steel transmission line which would spray the exhaust = lots of smoke (easy fix)

2) Leaking at the tranny fitting while under pressure in neutral (also an easy fix)

3) Engine runs smooth, but when the RPM’s are dropped to 800 RPM, there is a miss which causes the engine to rock/shake.

I suspect a bad plug (I just used the plugs that came with the used magnum heads).

There is a little watery black tinged “splatter” on the ground from the passenger side tail pipe (no cross-over pipe) after 30 min of break in + 5 minutes idle for cool down. The kind of thing you would see from running rich. It never smelled rich though.

Anyway, I will get new plugs and see if this cleans up my idle. It’s just fine tuning at this point, but I hope to get it on the road soon so I can beat on it and break in the motor!

Eightlitermopar

Last edited by eightlitermopar; 05/17/13 08:37 AM.

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Re: Magnum headed 318 running update! [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180438
05/17/13 10:49 AM
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Change the oil & filter/change the plugs/keep us updated!


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Re: Magnum headed 318 running update! [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180439
05/18/13 11:01 AM
05/18/13 11:01 AM
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Quote:



There is a little watery black tinged “splatter” on the ground from the passenger side tail pipe (no cross-over pipe) after 30 min of break in + 5 minutes idle for cool down. The kind of thing you would see from running rich. It never smelled rich though.

Anyway, I will get new plugs and see if this cleans up my idle. It’s just fine tuning at this point, but I hope to get it on the road soon so I can beat on it and break in the motor!

Eightlitermopar




I had tuned my old mag headed 318 with an LM-1 wide band 02, and even at fast idle (which measured about 14:1 AFR according to the WB 02), it would leave black soot on the snow....

glad to hear you're making good progress....


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Finally road test results! Magnum heads! [Re: patrick] #1180440
05/18/13 09:38 PM
05/18/13 09:38 PM
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I didn’t have to go into work today, so here the findings and results of today’s efforts. Sorry for the long post, but this is what I have been waiting for.

I was curious, so I took out the plugs to take a look at them. I discovered 1) some idiot had not torqued them in properly (they were just snug), and 2) the gap was only .020, probably untouched right out of the box. I never checked them before, as they came with the heads from the junk yard.

I gapped them to .040 and threw them back in, properly torqued this time.

I rerouted the plug wires to ensure none were crossed.

I fixed the leaking tranny line and fitting (by far, the most un-fun part of the day) and filled it up. Absolutely no leaks found yet.

Started the motor: It ran a little smoother, but the idle remained fairly high, even with the idle screw completely out. Vacuum leak? I removed the carb and put ATV silicone sealer on the gaskets between the carb and the intake. Result = Problem solved.

Idle 700-800 RPM and vaccum reading of a steady 12 lbs. I definitely have more of a cam compared to my stocker! High idle (1500-2000 steady RPM = 16lbs of vacuum)

Now it was time for the maiden voyage. The car ran great and I was able to put my foot in it a couple of times (but no redline). I only went a couple of miles which included two very steep hills (to put pressure on the rings). The engine warms up quickly and does not overheat. Consistant temps.

1) The car runs smooth, but has a much more noticeable aggressive exhaust tone than before.

2) The car has about the same power as before, but it seems more “smooth” across the powerband (well, as much as I pushed it anyway. I didn’t want to rev the crap out of it quite yet)

3) With the old set up, the engine would “rattle” or “knock” on wide open acceleration. Now, those sounds are COMPLETELY gone with WOT when the engine is under load.

4) I was somewhat disappointed that there wasn’t a huge gain in power according to the “butt dyno”, but I have to remember the motor isn’t completely broken in yet. Also, I am comparing this to my big-block roadrunner which I have been driving for the last 6 weeks.

5) Also, I didn’t make any changes to the carburetor. I put it back on exactly as it was when I removed it from my old motor. I have been running it lean (to pass stupid emissions) and to help with mileage for our road-trips. I may have to fatten up the rods and jets now that I have more of a cam in there.

So far I am quite pleased at how everything has turned out. The only thing I have left is to put the stock hood back on. I will need to find a drop base for my air cleaner because I am sure it will not clear with my new intake. At least this is what I am seeing when “eyeballing it”.

Then….we will see if it actually passes emissions with all the changes.

Anyway, sorry for the long post. Thanks to everyone who has helped me. I have learned a lot from all of this.

Eightlitermopar

Last edited by eightlitermopar; 05/18/13 09:40 PM.

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Re: Finally road test results! Magnum heads! [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180441
05/19/13 12:21 PM
05/19/13 12:21 PM
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I must also add that there is no smoke at wide open throttle. I was impressed with this. However, this is my first experience with moly rings...so....

Anyway, I need to pass emissions within the month, get a drop base air cleaner so I can put the hood back on, and then it's off for a road trip.

Still, I am concerned it hasn't gained much power according to the butt dyno, even with my bigger cam.

I am just going to drive it this year, but in the near future I would like to make the most of this head swap. (I have been following the other 318 4bbl swap thread).

What is the next area I should look into? Ignition first? Converter?, etc?

I am not looking for a race car, but I would like some more "pull" when I stab the throttle...

eightlitermopar


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Re: Finally road test results! Magnum heads! [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180442
05/19/13 12:49 PM
05/19/13 12:49 PM
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what was the old cam and new cam? (I'm too lazy to look through the post)


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2011 Toxic Orange Dodge Charger R/T
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Re: Finally road test results! Magnum heads! [Re: patrick] #1180443
05/19/13 02:37 PM
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The old cam was your stocker 318 2bbl cam, and there were some bent pushrods. Some of the rods measured .020-.040 shorter with the bend calculated

EDIT:The new one is the comp extreme engergy 250H cam.
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=624&sb=0

Consider the specs with a 1.6 ratio and I have alot more lift. More of a torque cam than a street terror powerhouse. I chose this route for the road-tripping torque rather than racing.

eightlitermopar

Last edited by eightlitermopar; 05/19/13 11:24 PM.
Re: Finally road test results! Magnum heads! [Re: eightlitermopar] #1180444
05/20/13 11:24 AM
05/20/13 11:24 AM
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Quote:

The old cam was your stocker 318 2bbl cam, and there were some bent pushrods. Some of the rods measured .020-.040 shorter with the bend calculated

EDIT:The new one is the comp extreme engergy 250H cam.
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=624&sb=0

Consider the specs with a 1.6 ratio and I have alot more lift. More of a torque cam than a street terror powerhouse. I chose this route for the road-tripping torque rather than racing.

eightlitermopar




you should feel things much stronger above 3500-4k....

my old '86 M body's 318 was all done by 4000 RPM stock. it's advertised torque peak was 2000 RPM....granted I never had headers and a 4bbl on that engine in that config....

that same short block with the magnum heads and my reground roller cam (used Bullet Cam's HR259/316 lobe) felt as strong as the 360 with an XE262 in it that I had in the car before I put the roller 'teen in.

the 259/316's specs are 259adv, 208@.050, 127@.200, .316 lobe lift (.506" with 1.6's)

your XE250's specs are 250 adv, 206@.050, 117@.200, .280LL (.461" with 1.6's)

with 10 degrees less duration at .2" lobe lift, and .045" less gross lift, I would expect your engine not to be as strong as mine was, but I would think it would feel much stronger above where the original cam/heads would nose over, which if the older 318 was anything like my '86, would've been about 3500 RPM...

how much ignition advance are you running? on my mag headed 318, it felt like it made the best power on the butt dyno with about 30 degrees total advance, and felt like it slowed down if you gave it older LA advance levels (36-40)....


1976 Spinnaker White Plymouth Duster, /6 A833OD
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2011 Toxic Orange Dodge Charger R/T
2017 Grand Cherokee Overland
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Re: Finally road test results! Magnum heads! [Re: patrick] #1180445
05/21/13 09:37 AM
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Thanks for the info Patrick!

I am hoping to get some more miles on it this week. I've been busy at work instead of driving it!

My to do list

1) Get a drop base air cleaner to fit the hood.
2)Put said hood on
3)Get some miles on it and see if it passes emissions
4) Fatten up the carb
5) Mess with the timing (I honestly have no idea at this point what my total is)

Thanks again! I will keep you posted.

eightlitermopar


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Re: Finally road test results! Magnum heads! [Re: patrick] #1180446
05/21/13 10:43 AM
05/21/13 10:43 AM
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Quote:

on my mag headed 318, it felt like it made the best power on the butt dyno with about 30 degrees total advance, and felt like it slowed down if you gave it older LA advance levels (36-40)....


Patrick was that with or without quench?


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Re: Finally road test results! Magnum heads! [Re: RapidRobert] #1180447
05/21/13 10:58 AM
05/21/13 10:58 AM
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no quench...pistons were .055 in the hole and I used .028" gaskets....


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2011 Toxic Orange Dodge Charger R/T
2017 Grand Cherokee Overland
2014 Jeep Cherokee Latitude (holy crap, my daughter is driving)
Re: Finally road test results! Magnum heads! [Re: patrick] #1180448
05/21/13 11:09 AM
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Thanks Patrick. I have mag heads going on a non quench 318 so I will go with your recommendation of 30 total


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