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1970 B Body Window Frame Questions #1144560
12/26/11 07:36 PM
12/26/11 07:36 PM
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Spokane Valley, WA
Big Bad Bee Offline OP
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I'm preparing my window frames for installation on the Bee. I could really use some help. I received the car in parts so they weren't installed and I am starting square one. Jump in and answer any questions you have knowledge on. The car is a hardtop. If you have an exploded drawing of how this all goes together along with the regulators, PLEASE! POST!!!

1. Which moving parts are generally good to replace at installation and where do I get them? (I already have door cat's whiskers, fuzzy guides that attach to holes in the glass.

2. What's the slick solution to replace the split pin that holds the wing window in place in the swivel?

3. The galvanized bracket with loop in the end that is spot welded to the glide track is broken off one of my frames (good one pictured). Is there a way to repair it without welding?

4. Is there a source for the little rubber part at the top of the wing that seals the front corner of the window glass as it rolls up?

5. What's the best way to recondition the rubber wing seals? I have a pair that are in good, soft shape. but they're old. Anything I can soak them in to make em dark and softer?

6. Anybody got a pair of clean unpitted ones they'd like to donate to a good cause?

Here's a picture of the item in question 3.


The rubber part in question 4 is in visible in the upper left of this picture.



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Re: 1970 B Body Window Frame Questions [Re: Big Bad Bee] #1144561
12/26/11 07:57 PM
12/26/11 07:57 PM
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bethlehem pa
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mikemee1331 Offline
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a service manual has some good exploded views. if you're doing a car it an invaluable aid.
one of my guides was also broken off. i drilled out the two spot welds and used flat headed machine bolts (counter-sunk inside the rail

Re: 1970 B Body Window Frame Questions [Re: mikemee1331] #1144562
12/26/11 08:26 PM
12/26/11 08:26 PM
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Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
Big Bad Bee Offline OP
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Mike,

How did you countersink? Did you countersink the bracket so that the rail would press down into it?

Lindy


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Re: 1970 B Body Window Frame Questions [Re: Big Bad Bee] #1144563
12/26/11 08:35 PM
12/26/11 08:35 PM
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Mass
DAYCLONA Offline
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70 Coronet/Bev/Charger....

6985672-vent.JPG (117 downloads)
Re: 1970 B Body Window Frame Questions [Re: DAYCLONA] #1144564
12/26/11 08:37 PM
12/26/11 08:37 PM
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Mass
DAYCLONA Offline
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.....

6985674-vent2.JPG (87 downloads)
Re: 1970 B Body Window Frame Questions [Re: DAYCLONA] #1144565
12/26/11 08:39 PM
12/26/11 08:39 PM
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Mass
DAYCLONA Offline
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and the qtr window stuff should you need it

6985676-vent2a.JPG (137 downloads)
Re: 1970 B Body Window Frame Questions [Re: Big Bad Bee] #1144566
12/26/11 08:42 PM
12/26/11 08:42 PM
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bethlehem pa
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mikemee1331 Offline
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Quote:

Mike,

How did you countersink? Did you countersink the bracket so that the rail would press down into it?

Lindy


i just used a larger sized drill (but smaller than the head of the bolt)and made the hole progressively larger until the head of the bolt was flush. i did it inside the rail.

Re: 1970 B Body Window Frame Questions [Re: Big Bad Bee] #1144567
12/26/11 08:51 PM
12/26/11 08:51 PM
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Mass
DAYCLONA Offline
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Lindy, if the A frames are pitted, don't even bother assembling them, nothing worst than pitted A frames on a clean resto,...rechroming isn't cheap either, I had a REALLY NICE set chromed, just the A frames were $600, the vent window channel for the glass and handles were $200....


New rubber vent window gaskets are avaliable from Legendary, they fit just like originals, NO ISSUES with these repros, unlike some of the other repro gaskets on the market,...$50 each, but well worth it, the window fuzzy guide that runs in the A frame was a dissapointment at $75 each though! (Chrysler replacement too! )...when I was done "restoring" my vent frames I had about $1000 into them, re-chroming being the culprit...But, Mike Ross is currently trial fitting some repro a frames, might want to check with him at BEAParts.com to see about availability/price.....vent windows you only want to do once, and do it right


Mike

Re: 1970 B Body Window Frame Questions [Re: DAYCLONA] #1144568
12/26/11 08:55 PM
12/26/11 08:55 PM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,397
It's a dry heat
gtx6970 Offline
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It's a dry heat
you can just rivet the lower bracket to the guide.
The glass doesn't go down that far for them to interfer with them

Re: 1970 B Body Window Frame Questions [Re: Big Bad Bee] #1144569
12/26/11 09:02 PM
12/26/11 09:02 PM
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Mass
DAYCLONA Offline
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Quote:



4. Is there a source for the little rubber part at the top of the wing that seals the front corner of the window glass as it rolls up?







The rubber wing tips that seal the top of the glass are avaliable from Legendary, as are the vent window A frame rubber gaskets

Re: 1970 B Body Window Frame Questions [Re: gtx6970] #1144570
12/26/11 09:37 PM
12/26/11 09:37 PM
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bethlehem pa
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mikemee1331 Offline
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i tried rivets but couldn't get the 2 pieces tight enough. probably my 'frugal' rivet gun!

Re: 1970 B Body Window Frame Questions [Re: DAYCLONA] #1144571
12/26/11 09:45 PM
12/26/11 09:45 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
Big Bad Bee Offline OP
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Bill and Mikemee thanks for the tips on that bracket.

Mike G, thanks again as always for those drawings. I will be ordering an FSM as soon as I can figure out who sells them on moparts. Ugh! That's a slug of parts.

I think you're right about the pitting. I have two sets from Texas and though surely a pair would be in good shape... Not so much. And those suckers can't be easy to put in without mucking up the door paint. I think I will start looking. I'm considering new glass too. The stuff I have looks like crap.

Wow! A thousand clams to refinish a pair... and you had to break all the rivets! I think I may be able to find a set locally that are good enough. You know I have always read about the slippery slope... My paint is top shelf. Now none of the old trim and glass parts are good enough to go with it... And this car isn't a rotissory resto. No matter. The wings will look like crap if they aren't extremely nice. Ca-ching... ugh.


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Re: 1970 B Body Window Frame Questions [Re: Big Bad Bee] #1144572
12/26/11 10:13 PM
12/26/11 10:13 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,177
People's Republic of Kali
70runner Offline
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Quote:

I think you're right about the pitting. I have two sets from Texas and though surely a pair would be in good shape... Not so much. And those suckers can't be easy to put in without mucking up the door paint. I think I will start looking. I'm considering new glass too. The stuff I have looks like crap.




You have to be VERY careful putting these guys in with the glass on a newly painted door. DAMHIK. I scoured the junkyards around SOCAL for 10 yrs back in the late 80s- early 90s and only found ONE set of nice A frames that fit a 68-70B vert (at a Tucson boneyard WAY out in the sticks) which interchange with the 66-67B 2dr hardtop. There's lots more 68-70B hardtop frames, but good luck trying to find a nice set.


Re: 1970 B Body Window Frame Questions [Re: DAYCLONA] #1144573
12/26/11 10:28 PM
12/26/11 10:28 PM
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 408
Manhattan, IL
SixPackRT Offline
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Quote:

Lindy, if the A frames are pitted, don't even bother assembling them, nothing worst than pitted A frames on a clean resto,...rechroming isn't cheap either, I had a REALLY NICE set chromed, just the A frames were $600, the vent window channel for the glass and handles were $200....


New rubber vent window gaskets are avaliable from Legendary, they fit just like originals, NO ISSUES with these repros, unlike some of the other repro gaskets on the market,...$50 each, but well worth it, the window fuzzy guide that runs in the A frame was a dissapointment at $75 each though! (Chrysler replacement too! )...when I was done "restoring" my vent frames I had about $1000 into them, re-chroming being the culprit...But, Mike Ross is currently trial fitting some repro a frames, might want to check with him at BEAParts.com to see about availability/price.....vent windows you only want to do once, and do it right


Mike




This is an area a lot of people get cheap on and it shows if the chrome on the frames is not nice original(very uncommon) or rechromed.

Scott


70 Coronet RT 440+6
64 Dodge 330 - Future Hemi Clone
17 Challenger Hellcat - Green Go Driver
86 Buick T-Type Turbo V-6
Re: 1970 B Body Window Frame Questions [Re: SixPackRT] #1144574
12/27/11 04:53 AM
12/27/11 04:53 AM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
Big Bad Bee Offline OP
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Ah yes. The ravages of time... Scott, these are on my parts list. It's a bit of a bummer to need these as I am so concerned with the big ticket interior and engine items. Just as visible and harder to find. I tried pulling the gasket out and disassembling these. HAH! Looks like one screw holding the horizontal bar in place and the rest is crimp style riviets??? Ugh. The base frame of the wing window is the first to go rusting. Mine are peppered. The frames are not so great. I think I will check in with Mike at B/E&A...


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Re: 1970 B Body Window Frame Questions [Re: Big Bad Bee] #1144575
12/27/11 01:52 PM
12/27/11 01:52 PM
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 408
Manhattan, IL
SixPackRT Offline
mopar
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Lindy, Every set I have seen has 2 crimped "riveted" nubs in the three places they are attached to the frame, and only one is used from the factory. Which makes reassembly easier! But starting with a set that has minor to no pitting is better in the long run. These are pretty common swap meet items. I will PM you if I have any extras. I know I went through a few sets to get one good set.

There was a post on here a few years ago that had detailed pictures of this being done. I might have it saved.

Scott


70 Coronet RT 440+6
64 Dodge 330 - Future Hemi Clone
17 Challenger Hellcat - Green Go Driver
86 Buick T-Type Turbo V-6
Re: 1970 B Body Window Frame Questions [Re: SixPackRT] #1144576
12/27/11 01:58 PM
12/27/11 01:58 PM
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 408
Manhattan, IL
SixPackRT Offline
mopar
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Posts: 408
Manhattan, IL


70 Coronet RT 440+6
64 Dodge 330 - Future Hemi Clone
17 Challenger Hellcat - Green Go Driver
86 Buick T-Type Turbo V-6
Re: 1970 B Body Window Frame Questions [Re: SixPackRT] #1144577
12/27/11 04:47 PM
12/27/11 04:47 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
Big Bad Bee Offline OP
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Scott, that is a great post. THANK YOU! I doubt Shakey will read this but good job to him on the pictures and stuff. BTW is there a way to save links like that within moparts or did you just copy and paste? Regardless, awesome.

See what you can find if you don't mind! after cleaning mine, they are just not good.


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Re: 1970 B Body Window Frame Questions [Re: DAYCLONA] #1144578
12/27/11 05:20 PM
12/27/11 05:20 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
Big Bad Bee Offline OP
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Quote:

Lindy, if the A frames are pitted, don't even bother assembling them, nothing worst than pitted A frames on a clean resto,...rechroming isn't cheap either, I had a REALLY NICE set chromed, just the A frames were $600, the vent window channel for the glass and handles were $200....


New rubber vent window gaskets are avaliable from Legendary, they fit just like originals, NO ISSUES with these repros, unlike some of the other repro gaskets on the market,...$50 each, but well worth it, the window fuzzy guide that runs in the A frame was a dissapointment at $75 each though! (Chrysler replacement too! )...when I was done "restoring" my vent frames I had about $1000 into them, re-chroming being the culprit...But, Mike Ross is currently trial fitting some repro a frames, might want to check with him at BEAParts.com to see about availability/price.....vent windows you only want to do once, and do it right


Mike




Just got off the phone with Mike Ross. No news on the frames but we shot the bull for a few. Always good to talk to Mike. That guy's a hoot.


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Re: 1970 B Body Window Frame Questions [Re: Big Bad Bee] #1144579
12/27/11 10:57 PM
12/27/11 10:57 PM
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Millersville, PA
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I am in the middle of doing this myself and had the same issue with the bottom bracket falling off. I personally welded it, and would do that if you know somebody who can.

I have a few questions as well, since i do not want to try to salvage 40 year old dry rotted parts...

-Who/where can i get the fuzzy parts that go on the front side of the roll up glass that have the "H" clips in them.

-Who/where can i get the "H" clip that go through the roll up glass?

-Who/where can i get felt that goes between the roll up glass the stainless upright part at the rear of the glass?

Thanks,

Steve

If you have any questions about tearing down the Frames and fixing them let me know, thats what i have been doing the past two days...


Re: 1970 B Body Window Frame Questions [Re: HemiChallenger] #1144580
12/27/11 11:23 PM
12/27/11 11:23 PM
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Posts: 408
Manhattan, IL
SixPackRT Offline
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Steve, As Mike said in the post above the flocked pieces that go into the vent frame rail with the H clips are available from Chrysler. Pricey but available! The rear channel flocked rubber channel is available from Restoration Specialties. They also have the glass setting tape (rubber) for the vent glass to bottom frame as well. Other places may have these products to, but this is who I used.

http://www.restorationspecialties.com/2009%20Catalog%20ebook/2009%20Catalog%20ebook.pdf

Scott


70 Coronet RT 440+6
64 Dodge 330 - Future Hemi Clone
17 Challenger Hellcat - Green Go Driver
86 Buick T-Type Turbo V-6
Re: 1970 B Body Window Frame Questions [Re: SixPackRT] #1144581
12/29/11 01:54 AM
12/29/11 01:54 AM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
Big Bad Bee Offline OP
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I got the channel fuzzies from a large OEM parts vendor and they were about $20 a side cheaper than mopar. Steve I have the parts numbers in the man cave if you need em. Yep. Expensive. That fuzzy that fits in the stainless back side piece... I think mine is A&M Softseal via Year One. They came with the car. BTW, the cats whiskers for inside and outside the glass I got from Fritz at FPAP. They make em and are top shelf IMHO.

Guys, I stopped by the local chrome place to check on prices for restoring the chrome. If I disassemble and they do all the strip and prep work, it's going to be $250-$280 per side and I reassemble. If they strip it and I polish them prior to chroming, It will be $120-$150 per side. So for a saturday's worth of sanding, I save half. Depending on how much Mike wants for his pieces I may go that way. I like new, but I have an engine to build...

Steve, Check out the link Scott posted above. It's great.

Lindy


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