After removing the cab, bed, and front clip, I spent hours removing the surface rust on the frame. Was able to use the sandblaster at the local Air Base Hobby shop to blast the steering knuckles, rotors, strut rods, springs and various small items. Used Rustoleum semi gloss on the frame. Had the rotos turned, purchased rebuilt calipers, new pads, bearings, etc. Here are a few pix of my progress. Moparts members have really helped me out with parts and tech advice.

you have raised the bar in detail

very nice

Picture of the steering box brace that scratchin told me about.

Another pix of the passenger side; found a factory weld that let loose on one of the crossmembers that I will need to get welded before I finish up the driver's side

Looks very good !

Front half of the frame

Switched pans from a center to rear sump; not much room between the oil pickup and the crank throws (4.25" stroke; had to do a little repositioning to get a good 1/4".

now yur just showin off strokin it

Also installed the motor mount brackets; will have to decide what mounts to use as the 512 shakes a bit at idle (at least it did in the Coronet I had it in previously)

Wow nice

Thanks scratchfotraction; you have to do that once in a while
Anyway, it is fun and keeps this old man busy and out of trouble. What are you using for the rubber motor mounts? I am thinking that I will need something like a mag mount or a strut to limit the side to side movement of the engine. I heard ther are a few on the board denting their headers from the movement. One guy resorted to a front motor plate. I don't want to go that far though

Spiffy

get 1 of Creative Engine Swaps Torque limiter straps. I dont know if one is made for trucks but a B/E kit (shown) shoudnt be to hard to convert..

I just got a set of the polyloc mounts from member Dragula(very cheap I may add,thanks Randy)

they look to be solid enuff,but I also used a pattern off of a set of elephant ears to make a steel driver side torque strap.

I will have the one side of a truck wp housing milled the thickness of the plate so nothing moves on the belt alinement.

then weld up a quik pin mount at the frame for it.

just need to have machine work done and it will have 1 elephant ear

you could nix the mounts and let the engine bracket sit down on the frame and bolt it in solid,it has enuff room on the pan and the holes line up

when I mocked mine up looking

Thanks guys for the ideas; I actually do have one of those torque limiter struts off of the Coronet that once the engine is in, I'll see if it will work. I could bolt it in solid but wonder about the vibes....it'll be a while before I am at that point so I have time to figure something out..

I have the card board pattern of the elephant ear if you want it to make one from alum or steel

That chassis looks great. If you blasted the spindles, you might wanna consider clear coating them to prevent them from rusting. I couldn't tell if you treated them or not.

Keep up the good work!!!

Mike

Thanks Mike, I clear-coated the inner and outer portion of the hub and the rest of the knuckle is ceramic coated flat gray.

Please fill us in on that steering box brace...

I've been trying to figure out what I'm going to do on my Ramcharger.

it came stock on some trucks and it is repoped now also or a JY.

was a problem solver from the factory,the trucks like to crack the frame at the box bolt holes.

it will firm the steering right up,a swaybar up front is another good upgrade on the 2x trucks.

not sure where he got his,it looks new,but then agian everything he has done up looks new

Click on the Dodge Connection (sponsors on the site) They had them in stock for around $48.00

http://www.dodgeconnection.com/catalog/item/2901766/4541374.htm