Since my original post disappeared...I'll try again! My k-frame is being removed for a frame rail repair,and was wanting to know what to use that's DURABLE....and ECONOMICAL! If there's a spray-can product out there,that would be GREAT! I hear Rustoleum makes some good epoxy-based paints,but wanted to get some ideas from you guys who have gone this route! Thanks in advance for your thoughts! Randy B.

Chassis black from Eastwood has proven to be a very durable paint out of a spray can for me.

Thanks,Gary! Is it a Satin black..or gloss? BTW...it was great,talking to you,and your wife..at the Donut Cutter,2 Cruises ago! You've got a VERY NICE Challenger!...looks like 2 VERY NICE Challengers,in your sig pic! Randy B.

Thanks, it's a semi gloss I guess.

i would powder coat it.

I too have had good results with the Eastwood SG chassis black. If there is some rust on the frame, a first coat of Eastwood black rust encapsulator primer would help it last longer.

If you want to keep cost way down and have access to a small sprayer, hit it with SG black Rustoleum from the hardware store thinned with 10-15% paint thinner... or just brush it on. SG black is very forgiving.

Who's sway bar kit is that? Tim

Quote:

---

Thanks, it's a semi gloss I guess.

---

As stated..OE,and factory correct is NOT a concern of mine!...not with all my modifications! In fact,I'm leaning toward painting the engine block BLACK! Orange 8 qt. oil pan..aluminum heads,and orange M-1 intake manifold. I will call my powder-coater for a price! Hopefully,it's reasonable..or I'll have to spray it myself! Thanks,guys!

I used the Krylon Epoxy paint on the 8 3/4 that I put in my 81 shorty 10 years ago.. came out real nice and still looks good today...

Quote:

---

painting the engine block BLACK!

---

Quote:

---

Orange 8 qt. oil pan..

---

Quote:

---

orange M-1 intake manifold

---

Oh, and nice thing about the chassis paint, if you ever do scratch it (not easy to do!) or what not...you can always touch it up...

Alkyld enamels, such as Rustoluem, two biggest faults are chalking due to UV light exposure (from the sun, etc.) and chemical resistance. Adding some hardener will increase the chemical resistance considerably. Parts underneath the car receive minimal UV light exposure, so Rustoleum with some hardener added should hold up well. This type of finish would be acceptable for a summer time week-end car.

Obviously, a person could spend more money and use an epoxy primer and urethane paint or power coat chassis parts. These are superior coatings. I would seriously consider these finishes for vehicles driven on salt treated roads.

On a vehicle which is driven, any chassis paint or coating will be chipped and scratched over time. So a finish which can be easily repaired is usually a good idea for a frequently driven vehicle.

Powder Coat maybe? I know a guy if you're interested Randy.

Rustoleum in a one pint can, flows well and covers well, the brush marks flow right out. POR also works well and is tough. Neither are sprays, but are more durable. Did the steering boxes make it up OK? Lee.

I used a semi gloss black powdercoat, turned out great and will wear well. My powdercoater is way reasonable. Blasting and coating was about $40

Lew..FORTY DOLLARS??? What a deal! Hopfully,Bill at QC Coatings can give me a similiar price! Powder Coating seems like the way to go...if the price is NICE! Thank You ALL for your opinions..and experiences! I truly appreciate it! Randy B.

Powder Coating is the only way to go.