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crank shaft and b1 #1116305
11/18/11 06:48 PM
11/18/11 06:48 PM
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florida dade
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cesar perez Offline OP
mopar
cesar perez  Offline OP
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florida dade
i am planning on going up to 604 ci from 511 ci. what do u guys think of an ohio crankshaft 4.750 stroke product and also would like to know what head would be better 572-13 or b1 originals what flow number differences between both heads- also was told that with the b1 heads i would be able to go with a larger 4530 bore it has better sealing fit than the 572-13 - give me your input thanks

Re: crank shaft and b1 [Re: cesar perez] #1116306
11/18/11 07:22 PM
11/18/11 07:22 PM
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Arizona
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Chris'sBarracuda Offline
master
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Arizona

Re: crank shaft and b1 [Re: cesar perez] #1116307
11/18/11 10:36 PM
11/18/11 10:36 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,917
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440Jim Offline
I Live Here
440Jim  Offline
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NC
B1 heads, not Indy...

Re: crank shaft and b1 [Re: cesar perez] #1116308
11/21/11 09:55 PM
11/21/11 09:55 PM
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Long Island, NY
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B1Ken Offline
top fuel
B1Ken  Offline
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I built a 612 (4.530 x 4.750) in an Indy block with B-1 original heads 3 years ago. It lasted to about the 1000' mark on the first run and the cam broke! In conversation with another Mopar racer, he thought there might be a clearance problem with the rods and cam with a 4.75" stroke. Uhh ... maybe he has something there. Oh well it only cost me about $12,000 to find out. All I'm sayin' is you better check this out.
K.B.

Re: crank shaft and b1 [Re: B1Ken] #1116309
11/22/11 03:31 AM
11/22/11 03:31 AM
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Oregon
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AndyF Offline
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Oregon
Ouch! That is an interesting thought with the long stroke. Even if it clears fine on the engine stand, it might not clear at 7000 rpm when the crank starts to move around.

For the OP, I wouldn't use a bargain basement crank in a big power motor. Better spend the money for the good stuff if you want it to make power and live.

Re: crank shaft and b1 [Re: AndyF] #1116310
11/22/11 03:58 AM
11/22/11 03:58 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,963
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart Offline
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gregsdart  Offline
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Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
Quote:

Ouch! That is an interesting thought with the long stroke. Even if it clears fine on the engine stand, it might not clear at 7000 rpm when the crank starts to move around.

For the OP, I wouldn't use a bargain basement crank in a big power motor. Better spend the money for the good stuff if you want it to make power and live.




I cracked an Ohio 4.15 large rod bearing crank at 100 passes. No detonation, or other problems. I now have a $2300 Crower in it. I could have saved myself a bunch of $$ had I done it right the first time. If it were me, I would stay at 4 5/8 stroke or less, Biggest heads I could afford.


8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
Re: crank shaft and b1 [Re: gregsdart] #1116311
11/22/11 05:35 AM
11/22/11 05:35 AM
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 511
florida dade
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cesar perez Offline OP
mopar
cesar perez  Offline OP
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florida dade
i see alot of racers using a 4750 cranks without any issues

Re: crank shaft and b1 [Re: cesar perez] #1116312
11/22/11 09:05 AM
11/22/11 09:05 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,963
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart Offline
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gregsdart  Offline
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Posts: 9,963
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
It is the quality of steel and how it is made that makes a huge difference. The long stroke and small diameter of the rod journals on a 4.75 stroke crank also take a lot of overlap out of the crank between the rods and mains.


8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky






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