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Why not just buy that System1 filter for $190 bucks with the filter that can be washed...No need for the hoohah of buying a new one...Just put it in your dishwasher and call it a day.

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It is a good choice for a race car that will be torn down frequently. I did not go check the filtration specs on it just now, but, I seem to remember that it does not do much for very small particles that might create more long term wear on a street engine that is not being freshened regularly

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Why not just buy that System1 filter for $190 bucks with the filter that can be washed...No need for the hoohah of buying a new one...Just put it in your dishwasher and call it a day.

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Yo Moe ... but you have a shorter "day" with a toilet-tissue piece ... and it SURE IS NOT at a cost of almost 200 beans ....

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I had used Fram for some time then read several filter "teardown" posts and links with pics. There's not much filter area in the Fram and filter material and valving seems cheap. Those posts along with credible reports of bypass valves sticking open or closed steered me away. No I have never blow up an engine or lost oil pressure with one... I don't plan to find out by trying either. I use something else.

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Sounds like a smart and prudent conclusion to me!

As far as you guys trying to build a better mousetrap, google fuel polishing systems for boats (particularly passagemakers with diesel engines). There is no reason to "re-invent the wheel", this has all been well thought out before.

Dave

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FULL DISCLOSURE NEEDED

CompSyn, does everyone on this board know you are an Amsoil dealer?

Could this be why you are touting your own product?

Don't your posts belong in the FOR SALE section?

R.

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It should be obvious to anyone that he is a dealer. All you have to do is click on his name if it is not that obvious to you.

On the other hand, he never, to my knowledge, tries to get anyone to buy from him, or from Amsoil, but, he does bring tech data to the table to support his statements.

Seldom does anyone refute the data he presents. I don't see any problem and I do appreciate his efforts to present data rather than making claims followed by a plea to buy something from him.

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Thanks! Appreciate that Strawdawg.

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Now on to the important stuff:
I am a mechanical engineer at a power generating station and for the last six months have been formulating a plan to bring my facility's lubrication system up to speed into the 21st century. I have been reading everything I could get my hands on about lubrication and filtering. Here is what I have found so far:

Recent research shows that particulate much smaller than the clearance of the bearings does indeed increase wear. The target filter size seems to be heading towards 3 micron absolute.

Recent research shows that varnish is particulate and can actually be filtered out of the oil.

Oil coming from the manufacturer is relatively dirty. As said in one of the quotes cited by CompSyn it is possible to filter the oil in a system to be CLEANER than new. So to think you gain in cleanliness by changing the oil is wrong. The proper industrial procedure is to filter the oil INTO the application.

Water is very bad for oil. It reduces film strength greatly. It causes additives to drop out or to become catalysts for oxidation of the oil. It can do other bad things as well, and all at less percentage than it takes to make the oil cloudy. So by the time yor oil looks like a milkshake the oil has been severely compromised for a long time.

Much of motor oil particulate has traditionally come from ingested dust. That is helped by an air filter. But there are other mechanisms active in the crankcase that can also form particulate.

We are experimenting with dessicant breathers on our oil tanks. We are also using a 3 micron absolute filter on our hydraulic oil in a "kidney loop" arrangement. This has reduced the particulate loading between one and two ISO cleanliness grades, which is HUGE.

I am in no way associated with AMSOIL but it seems to me from my reading that the synthetic medium filters (like Amsoil) are definitely better than ANY paper or cellulose filter. To me, this seems to be a fact.

If you need a better filter is for you to decide.

R.

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That's right on dogdays.

One willing to dig into the science behind modern tech lubricant filtration will discover the same thing, 1950s technology paper oil filters are not the best we have available today. I'd also add that there is more than one manufacture producing glass media oil filters for automotive applications which is why I speak in general terms. I will add that some are made with "micro-technology", and others with "nano-technology". Research the differences in construction if you like.

Also, with regard to dogdays comments, there seems to be a fine point in filtration for automotive applications. Mr. Morrison claimed he saw evidence through personal experience that lube filtration capable of filtering oil to 5 microns or below could also begin stripping the Viscosity Index Improver (VII) out of the oils additive package. Apparently, lubricants used in industrial applications don't rely on the VIIs that automotive engine oils utilize, so this is not an issue in most of those industrial applications.

But yes, dogdays is also correct that there are automotive oil filters on the market today that can filter motor oil to a point of cleanliness beyond that of the brand new oil coming out of the quart bottle without stripping the additive package out of the oil.

Mr. Morrison went on to say that his, "ISO cleanliness is reduced from 18/17/15 to 14/13/11", when comparing the OEM paper oil filter to the alternative glass media oil filter he used in his testing.

Most astonishing of all, Mr. Morrison went on to say that,"my used engine oil is cleaner than the oil which came out of the quart bottle", again referring to the motor oil being filtered with the glass media oil filter.

I don't know, call me crazy but when a lubrication engineer specializing in filtration speaks out about his real world test findings, I figure he may know something a little more than an automotive mechanic, or a famed race car driver, or the guy behind the parts counter or even the smartest of smart Internet experts.

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I don't know, call me crazy but when a lubrication engineer specializing in filtration speaks out about his real world test findings, I figure he may know something a little more than an automotive mechanic, or a famed race car driver, or the guy behind the parts counter or even the smartest of smart Internet experts.

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Now that's just crazy, you could use facts and evidence to prove whatever you want. Don't get technical with us, everyone knows them Frams is junk, it says it all over the internet.

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Fram filters are crap--cardboard end caps, poor construction, minimal filter media.
Buy a Wix or a Napa Gold.

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Nobody asked what I needed the filter for but here it is..,

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Nobody asked what I needed the filter for but here it is..,

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Check way back early on in thread. That's exactly what I was scolding everyone about...
Everyone wants to throw in their 2 cents without a nickle's worth of thought first.

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Nobody asked what I needed the filter for but here it is..,

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Check way back early on in thread. That's exactly what I was scolding everyone about...
Everyone wants to throw in their 2 cents without a nickle's worth of thought first.

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...yet TinCuda is heeding the collective advice and tossing the Fram in the trash!!!

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Save the cost of a Happy Meal one week and go buy a filter from your local Mopar dealer. Problem solved.
Why worry over the cost of an oil filter? How much money do you spend on things you don't need?

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Don't know how much Happy Meals cost in your neck of the woods, but here they would have to be mighty expensive to equal the cost of a Mopar oil filter. I was buying the long filter at the Mopar dealer, for my small-block.

With tax, 27.00...

I finally wised up after buying three of them, and I now use Wix.

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And I get to say it, as I frequently do...

Up next -- Green bearings!

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Or Ford 9" vs. Dana