Hi I'm looking to go to a bigger camshaft in my 440. It's 60over with flat top piston with NO valve reliefs right now I have a 465 lift cam...and would like to go to about a 500 lift cam will I have any valve/piston clearance? Thank you

69 roadrunner 440 4speed 410dana. 750 Holley torker intake 452 heads flat tops headers, street strip car

I have a Comp Cams XE285HL(.545 net lift advertised) in one of my motors, it fit with no problems. That being said you MUST always check valve to piston clearnances and lobe seperation angle(cam timing) due to different cam lobe designs and the possibilty of the cam locating pin not being in the exact spot it should be in and the timing marks on the cam and cranksahft gears not being marked correctly I have seen a lot of things wrong on car parts, especially when it comes to Hi Po parts The worst offenders on bad piston to valve clearnances are the Mopar brand "Purple Shaft" cams Chrysler(Mopar) has had a lot of different vendors make those cams for them over the years, not all of the cams are the same as the other ones of the same grind They know that and won't do much about it unless you really raise a lot of stink over the bad cam you bought from them

Well, the purple cams do need to be checked, I do like the .557" solid in an application like that one. More street manners than the .590 purple cam. I actually run a .557 in my 408, and it screams...

I would like to run hydralic lifters and make some decent power 1800-5800 rpm

Cab is absolutely right, you MUST check the clearance to be safe. Not just piston to valve, but retainer to guide and coil bind as well. As an example the Comp 284 XE in my 'Cuda was one whole tooth off when it we checked it. First degree the cam in then check the clearances. Since you want to use a hydraulic cam you will need two solid lifters to check with. If you don't have any solids it's easy to convert two old hydraulics into solids for checking purposes. Just gut them and cut some round stock [ bolts work fine ] to the correct length and replace the hydraulic guts with it and replace the pushrod cup. DON'T try to simply pump up the hydraulics and hope for the best. Keep in mind that while you can check piston to valve clearance for depth with the heads on it's all but impossible to check radial clearance. Of course since your pistons don't have valve reliefs this dosen't really apply in you particular case. Take the time to check, it's good insurance. As for cams you might want to try a Comp 275 HL.

Cannot answer the question with certainty. I'd guess that you would be alright.

What pistons are those? Any shelf piston for a 440 w/o valve notches purchased in the last 20 years will have a 1.99" CH, or less, add in a .040" gasket and a valve grind or two, probably okay. Kinda curious what your cylinder pressure is, or do you know how far in the hole they are?

Of course, the duration is the number that matters more.

Ya Im still confused about duration . I know it is how long the the valve stays open. But do not understand what application needs more/less duration.....

Has any anyone used lunati's voodoo camshafts I was looking at one with .494/.513 lift and 268/276 has anybody have any experience/ knowledge about thisThanks

I'd say you could proabaly go up to the 500 range w/o an issue. What cam were you thinking about running?