Re: HEAVY DUTY BILLET MAIN CAPS???
[Re: Labratt]
#1108793
11/07/11 05:54 PM
11/07/11 05:54 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,544
Syracuse,NY
CompWedgeEngines
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,544
Syracuse,NY
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Randy,
ANY change of caps typically requires a new align BORE, and then an align HONE. Most caps are undersized to the point where they are intended to be bored first. Some of the newer computerized equipment like a Rotller F series may be able to bore to size. Make sure what ever you do, save your #1 and #5 cap for reference points for the machinist.
Its common to have anywhere from about .060 +/-plus .125 that needs to be bored out depending on whose and what caps you are purchasing. Boring and honing are two seperate process' for the most part.
RIP Monte Smith
Your work is a reflection of yourself, autograph it with quality.
WD for Diamond Pistons,Sidewinder cylinder heads, Wiseco, K1 rods and cranks,BAM lifters, Morel lifters, Molnar Technologies, Harland Sharp, Pro Gear, Cometic, King Engine Bearings and many others.
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Re: HEAVY DUTY BILLET MAIN CAPS???
[Re: CompWedgeEngines]
#1108794
11/07/11 06:34 PM
11/07/11 06:34 PM
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,091
Delray beach, Florida
Performance Only
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,091
Delray beach, Florida
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Quote:
Randy,
ANY change of caps typically requires a new align BORE, and then an align HONE. Most caps are undersized to the point where they are intended to be bored first. Some of the newer computerized equipment like a Rotller F series may be able to bore to size. Make sure what ever you do, save your #1 and #5 cap for reference points for the machinist.
Its common to have anywhere from about .060 +/-plus .125 that needs to be bored out depending on whose and what caps you are purchasing. Boring and honing are two seperate process' for the most part.
as usual, good advice Todd. we use the F series Rottler and we do bore to size, no honing needed. we would not need the old main caps however. we routinely do that job and yes, anywhere from .060-.125 comes out of almost any new cap. 
machine shop owner and engine builder
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Re: HEAVY DUTY BILLET MAIN CAPS???
[Re: Labratt]
#1108796
11/07/11 08:51 PM
11/07/11 08:51 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
WILD BILL
Senior Member of the Junior Dragster Club
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Senior Member of the Junior Dragster Club
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
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Wouldn't installing a girdle require changing to studs in the mains resulting in the mains needing line honed at a minimum? 
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Re: HEAVY DUTY BILLET MAIN CAPS???
[Re: WILD BILL]
#1108797
11/07/11 09:27 PM
11/07/11 09:27 PM
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,442
central ohio
nss guy
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,442
central ohio
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this is just a thought, due to the integrity of a 'stock' block are these mods needed? How much $ Is this cost effective? After x amount of runs buy another stock block and swap rotating assy. or buy an aftermarket block and be done. I'm in the same situation, I am keeping a count on the runs of the block and it's condition, especially in the main cap webbing. If cracks are starting I switch to another block and keep going. Done this for about the last 10yrs now on my 2nd block 400-500 runs each block before the cracks start to appear 
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Re: HEAVY DUTY BILLET MAIN CAPS???
[Re: nss guy]
#1108799
11/07/11 09:36 PM
11/07/11 09:36 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,923
NC
440Jim
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,923
NC
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Your thinking is correct.
But there is no way to know for sure if any particular block will hold up for any particular number of passes, at any particular power/rpm level. That block and mains could come apart at 5 passes or 500. And if it does it could take out a lot of expensive parts around it.
IMO, if you are pushing things (and I am); you need to reduce your risk by careful inspection of parts (block sonic check, magnaflux mains, etc), setup, assembly, and routine inspections to hopefully catch any developing issues before you waste the whole thing. Or pay the big bucks up front (which is no guarantee of not blowing up for other reasons).
You make your choices, and take your chances.
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Re: HEAVY DUTY BILLET MAIN CAPS???
[Re: WILD BILL]
#1108802
11/08/11 05:42 PM
11/08/11 05:42 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
WILD BILL
Senior Member of the Junior Dragster Club
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Senior Member of the Junior Dragster Club
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
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Quote:
Wouldn't installing a girdle require changing to studs in the mains resulting in the mains needing line honed at a minimum?
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Re: HEAVY DUTY BILLET MAIN CAPS???
[Re: WILD BILL]
#1108803
11/08/11 06:23 PM
11/08/11 06:23 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,970
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,970
U.S.S.A.
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Quote:
Quote:
Wouldn't installing a girdle require changing to studs in the mains resulting in the mains needing line honed at a minimum?
If the gridle uses studs and he doesn't have studs already then yes he should have it line honed .
Randy also realize that pan gets 1/2" to 3/4" closer to the street and you have to extend your pickup back to the bottom of the pan.
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Re: HEAVY DUTY BILLET MAIN CAPS???
[Re: Labratt]
#1108806
11/09/11 09:36 PM
11/09/11 09:36 PM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,552
Rittman Ohio
fourgearsavoy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,552
Rittman Ohio
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Hi Randy  I really think at your power level just put some new ARP studs in it and have it honed If your caps are going to break then most likely the block will crack as well  So I figure use it until it breaks then call Koffel's and get a new aftermarket block.Don't waste your money on a band-aid Now that being said the next time I take my car out and beat it my caps will break  Gus 
64 Plymouth Savoy
493 Indy EZ's by Nick at Compu-Flow
5-Speed Richmond faceplate Liberty box
Dana 60
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Randy B 
...LOTS of paved country roads and corn fields out here in Memphis! 
I'm just going to pull the pan,inspect the lower-end,including the main and rod bearings...and go from there. As Brad H. suggested,I'll look into the bottom-end girdle set-up. 
