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this is a trick my dad used. He drive around with the ATF for like 2-3 days then he'd get the car warm, take the rpm's way up and turn on the garden hose...straight down the carb you should see the amount of junk blowing out the tail pipe.

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this is a trick my dad used. He drive around with the ATF for like 2-3 days then he'd get the car warm, take the rpm's way up and turn on the garden hose...straight down the carb you should see the amount of junk blowing out the tail pipe.

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this is a trick my dad used. He drive around with the ATF for like 2-3 days then he'd get the car warm, take the rpm's way up and turn on the garden hose...straight down the carb you should see the amount of junk blowing out the tail pipe.

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well it created a lot of smoke filled w/ debris...

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i have lightly drizzled water into the carb, and it is vaporized into steam, and over time/repeated use, will remove deposits. dont add to much at once (never a garden hose blasted into the carb) unless you wish to witness the effects of hydro-locking. water wont compress, but your rods will. use it sparingly, and keep the revs up, and water will clean out a lot of crap.

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since atf is really just oil, seems like it wouldnt help much, but actually add to the problem. it will coat everything, burn only partially, and contribute to fouling/build up.

i have lightly drizzled water into the carb, and it is vaporized into steam, and over time/repeated use, will remove deposits. dont add to much at once (never a garden hose blasted into the carb) unless you wish to witness the effects of hydro-locking. water wont compress, but your rods will. use it sparingly, and keep the revs up, and water will clean out a lot of crap.

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I was going to ask about bending a rod if you put water into a running motor...

If you do you use water, how much do you add, and use just plain water? Would a squirt bottle work better than just pouring it in with a container? How long will you need to do this for any effect?

The car is not driveable...it runs but no interior beside gauge cluster on the floor and a seat and steering wheel Can't drive it yet (legally) but I can run it.

Would you do the trick of adding a quart of ATF to the OIL and running the motor and then draining?

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the risk is small, but it's there. a diesel runs on higher compression, and you'd think some water wouldnt hurt. i've seen several diesels throw a rod or blow the top off the power assembly, from a leaking water jacket. (emd locomotives) i've also hydro-locked a diesel, trying to crank it, with water in the cylinder. bent a rod, but didnt break it.

i use an empty dish detergent bottle, and just drizzle it, in a really light stream, with the motor at a very high idle. maybe 2000-2500 rpm. you'll know you're adding too much, when the motor starts to bog down, as it fights to compress the water. i also have the car hot from driving before doing this, or you might fill the mufflers with water and crap, helping to rust/clog it.

the gas today is a lot cleaner (some of it's clear, like water, vs the dark orange stuff we used to pump) and as long as your guides arent leaking, and you dont just idle the motor endlessly, it shouldnt be all that dirty. once or twice a year should be fine, if you worry about deposits. if the plugs are clean and dry, i would imagine the rest of the combustion chamber is, as well.

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the risk is small, but it's there. a diesel runs on higher compression, and you'd think some water wouldnt hurt. i've seen several diesels throw a rod or blow the top off the power assembly, from a leaking water jacket. (emd locomotives) i've also hydro-locked a diesel, trying to crank it, with water in the cylinder. bent a rod, but didnt break it.

i use an empty dish detergent bottle, and just drizzle it, in a really light stream, with the motor at a very high idle. maybe 2000-2500 rpm. you'll know you're adding too much, when the motor starts to bog down, as it fights to compress the water. i also have the car hot from driving before doing this, or you might fill the mufflers with water and crap, helping to rust/clog it.

the gas today is a lot cleaner (some of it's clear, like water, vs the dark orange stuff we used to pump) and as long as your guides arent leaking, and you dont just idle the motor endlessly, it shouldnt be all that dirty. once or twice a year should be fine, if you worry about deposits. if the plugs are clean and dry, i would imagine the rest of the combustion chamber is, as well.

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That's the problem, this motor has not been run much besides idling for the past 4 years. There has been no "punching it" so that's why I cam guessing this should be done.

Thanks for the help!

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I have seen a running motor bend a rod due to water ingestion As already suggested put new gas in it and drive it for a long trip to warm the oil up and suck out the bad gas that is in the tank. That or drain the tank, put all new fuel in it and then drive it for 50 miles or more I've done all the old school stuff down the carb, a water and alcholol injection system will help clean the combustion chambers if you absolutely want that done One thing you need to remember about all the old school methods, that was when all gasoline had lead in the fuel Lots more deposits in the motor and exhaust sytem then than now, also keep in mind that those motors ran under 180F on a hot day, not like todays motosr runniing EFI and over 200 F to keep them effecient by atomizing the fuel better Don't pour any water, oil or ATF into the carb

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Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner - unless you live in California where you can't get it anymore - so it must be good!

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Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner - unless you live in California where you can't get it anymore - so it must be good!

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I have a feeling it's relabeled Seafoam.

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diesel will do the same thing only cheaper. You guys using water may as well leave all your condensation in your gas tank and oil - hell all it is doing is flushing & cleaning our oiling and fuel systems.

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BG fuel Induction service.
Drizzle water down the carb.
Take it out and romp on it.

ATF is for cleaning the inside of the engine, add to oil, warm without heavy loading and drain.

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BG induction cleaner sucked through a vacuum source at the base of the carb that has constant vacuum.Do one can then take it out and get it warm and then repeat one more time.
I use an old A/C can tap just make sure you put a restriction in the hose so it's metered instead of pouring it down the throat of the carburetor.
Gus

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..neighbor told me GM had service bulletin instructing the use of ATF to clean and free up noisy lifters.

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Hello:
I'm confused you say the engine was freshly rebuilt 4 years ago and has only been run a few times but not enough to really warm it up. What makes you think it is so dirty you need to do something so drastic? How did it get that bad?
The run on you describe is probly due to not being properly tuned up. Change oil and filter (before starting engine)
Tune it up / drain tank / carb / and lines.
Then see how it runs. MY HUMBLE OPINION

Maynard

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I think you are on to something here. First I made the mistake of assuming the fluids were topped off and low and behold, the motor is low on coolant and was begining to run hot. I think the electric fans saved my butt here...motor got up to 220F before I realized the motor was running hot.

Coolant has since been topped off and motor runs at idle at no more than 175 degrees after 30 minutes. The motor now runs a LOT better and I think that was making me think I had tons of crap in the chambers...to be safe, I added Marvel Mystery Oil to fuel and oil.

Issue still remains with engine idling at 1100-1200 RPM and running rich. From what I can see the carb is set to run lean (idle mixture screws are only 1 turn out from being bottomed out) and idle speed is set to lowest...

I am not sure if timing is my cuplrit here or maybe a vacum leak...motor seems to pull a consistant manifold vacum of 15 inches at idle...

Any pointers on where to look? I am a younger guy so I am trying to learn the tuning of a holley carb where I grew up in a world of computers...