Im going to be putting disc brakes on a 72 dart i just bought.I cant seemed to decide which route to go,WILWOOD DISC BRAKE kit or go with the scarebird conversion.I want to stay with the small bolt pattern front wheels,Centerline 15x3 or 15x4s,not sure which width.It seems like the scare bird kit would be alot cheaper,but that worries me alittle.Any thoughts?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370548530298?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400218429944?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

scarebirds are affordable and you can buy everything you need at your local autoparts.... but if you want the wow factor and performance go wilwood

I have the sacrebird setup on my '72. It works great and replacement parts are right off the shelf from anywhere. That was the deciding factor for me.

I didn't have any problems setting up the proportioning valve- I used a stock disc one with an aftermarket adjustable knob style after it. My 275/60-15 tires are harder to lock up than the stock skinnies anyway.

Be careful not to use too big of a m/c bore. I originally put my kit together with an aluminum mc a bit larger than 1" bore and got a fairly wooden pedal. I think my new mc (smaller) is around 1 1/32 or something. Works good but I'm a big dude.

The initial cost and the parts availability is what scared me off from wilwood, ssbc, etc. My 73 dart I converted to 5x4.5" big bolt single piston brakes and they work awesome too, but I didn't want big bolt on my 72 demon.

Good luck

Rdr

There's also Engineered Components, but I don't know if they offer them in the 4.0" pattern. They're around $550 IIRC.

I guess i will try the scarebird kit then.
Thanks

Iput the Wilwood HD kit on the front of my Demon.It stops great.I added the M/Cyl from Ehrenberg and left the rest as it came from the factory(prop valve lines etc.)The car isgoing back to street duty and the Wilwoodswill work fine there too.I went with the HD kit as my Demon has a 440 in it.

I have a Wilwood kit that I picked up at Summit racing on clearence for $400. Its a bolt on for the 9" drum brake spindle. Thats the reason I got it. It allows the use of either bolt pattern and 4 piston calipers. I have nothing but good things about the scarebird kit, so I wouldn't worry about that as an option. Plus, like said above, you can get parts at your local parts stores.

Will the" scare bird kit" increase front track width beyond stock ?

to answer your question it will increase the track width less then the thickness of the rotor hat..

What rotors does the scarebird use to keep the 4" bolt circle ?

Wilwood or Scarebird? Wow, talk about between a rock and a hard spot.

The scarebird kit uses a shelf (forgot application probably on their website) rotor with an insert to fill the center hole (dodge spindle is smaller) and they give you a pattern to drill out the boltpattern.

Come on John, it isn't that tough. You just put the rotor down in the mud so to hold it firm, then you use a hand held drill with a rusty drill bit. If you don't have a big enough drill bit you just wallor out the hole a little bit by chewing on the sides. The wheels might wiggle a bit but nobody cares about that.

the rotor they want you to use is for a toyota previa.I bought every thing but havn't installed it yet.

Don't know about the cost factor, but I used SSBC on my '71 Dart GT. Has the option of 5 on 4" or 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern. Very complete kit & instructions. I paid ~$830 to my door from Mancini about 5 years ago. No trouble to date. Just food for thought.

It all depends on what you think will work best for you. Wouldn't surprise me one bit if there isn't someone wondering how to convert their SRT8 to 9" drums w/14" steelies...

I definitely understand the appeal of parts that work well and don't need any work, but is it that hard to centerpunch and drill five holes? How accurate are the parts we buy from overseas for applications like this? Do you think the guy working on a drill press with a worn out jig in china cares more than you do about getting it dead on? Is it only ok to use parts that bolt on how you get them in the mail from summit?

I always thought making stuff work and solving problems with simple tools was one of the best parts of hot rodding and also a skill Americans are rapidly losing. It was pretty easy to check the runout once the rotors were mocked up. Not everybody has a thousand bucks laying around for lightweight billet parts.

I happen to like my scarebird setup and if I hadn't bought it I probably would have cobbled together a similar setup without the luxury of a mill, lathe, and foundry. It's the same bull crap with Harleys- people pay over a thousand bucks for billet aluminum brake setups that half the time are plumbed to the wrong diameter master cylinder. My shovelhead is upgraded from 10" single piston disc brakes to 11" rotors with four and six piston tokico brakes off crashed crotch rockets on eBay. It stops awesome and the brackets are home made.

Why all the mud slinging?