I edited a few of the dimensions in my earlier posts to clarify what modifications were done.

Don't laugh but the Old Navy flag stem is exactly 3/16" diameter which fits snugly into the pull-off vacuum hose. I drilled a .016" hole about 3/8" of an inch deep, then used a hacksaw to cut the piece off. Ran the drill through again to make sure there weren't any burrs from the saw.
The red arrow shows where the original orifice is, this particular one has a .033" hole which would be way too big for my application.
One of my pull-offs had an ink stamp on it but I don't know what it means.
Also is the drill set and the pin vise to hold the drill.

Excellent photo Dave. Thanks.

Thanks for the great information and tips. This will be a great aid to me and others.

When you are able to do some test and tune at the track you will want to increase the orifice size until 60' times start to slow down. You may find when you change something else (timing, jetting, tires, launch technique ect.) you can benefit by going thru another iteration of orifice size testing. Keep in mind that area changes with the square of radius so small changes can be significant.

A YouTube video can be worth a thousand replies... Go to YouTube

http://youtu.be/L8CnQWTUSNU

I have a bunch of Thermoquads for parts that the hardware is good but siezed up. Is there a good product to dip them in to loosen the stuck bowl screws?

Dave try using a deep creep type of break free. A cheap solution of 75% trans fluid and 25% acetone works pretty good as a soak, give them a week or so fully submerged. If that fails try soaking them in diesel fuel overnight.

Thanks for the tips Scott. I've tried PB Blaster without luck. I'll give the Acetone/trans fluid a chance.

I wanted to bring this thread back up. There are a few things that might help guys out.

Some of the carbs I've bought were completely stuck. A propane torch and PB Blaster can help remove some really stubborn screws, idle mixture screws, and loosen the throttle shafts.
Heat the area around the stuck screw or shaft, then shoot the area with the Blaster. Apply more heat until the area is smoking again, you might see the Blaster bubbling up which is great, shoot it with more Blaster. It may take 5 or 6 tries but eventually you should be able to remove anything. Be patient, don't force the screw or it will just break off. The Blaster will flame up but nothing scary. Work in a well ventilated, open area away from things that can burn.

Finally worked with the choke pull-off adjustment enough at the track that the carb doesn't bog anymore. The car has run 13.90 @ 101MPH at our local track, and 14.12 @ 99MPH during the Pure Stock Muscle Car Drags.

Good tips Dave. Sometimes it doesn't seem to matter how much you want them to come apart, they still don't want too.
I experienced the dredded bog for the first time with the Duster at MIR. One pump shot adjustment and the next pass it was blowing the tires off again.