Quote:

---

what do you mean by zero out ?

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

what do you mean by zero out ?

---

Adjusting the ring height back to the original setting. As the clutch slips it wears the disc so you adjust the ring height this way you can keep track of your pressures.

Donald

---

Quote:

---

Georg,
Are you considering to run a CS1,CS2 type Lenco or are you referring to the 1200 Street model ?

Think it would make a big difference on clutch selection, although cost will be similar, something like a Bonafante will be around $3500. But will need maintenance/checking, but less so on a mainly street application. Then again, what sort of HP you looking to put through it.

A bruno type Lenco, with a converter, as mentioned earlier is another option to consider

---

Quote:

---

Georg,
You can put any type of clutch in front of a Lenco that they make an input shaft for. You need to pick a clutch for whatever you're mostly using the car for. If street, you need a street clutch, if street/strip, or strip only, pick a clutch designed for your HP and car weight. The CS1 and CS2 will take anything you can throw at it, up to 3000HP for the CS1. The CS2 is a slightly smaller case if you have space limitations but will still handle 2500hp. The ST1200 is just that, a street version thats rated at 1200hp. They use aluminum cases instead of mag like the race versions and 8620 material for the gears instead of 9310. The 8620 is the same material used in most ring and pinions and is a little harder for better wear on the street. Thats how Lenco can get the cost down a little for the street version. One thing to consider is heat buildup with the Lenco if you are doing a lot of cruising, I know my CS2 doesn't have any provisions for fluid cooling although the ST1200 might. BTW, I'm running a Bruno convertor drive in my altered and honestly think it would be streetable if I were to put it in a bodied car. You might want to look at a Lencodrive also, roughly same size as a glide in 2-speed configuration but you have the flexibility of adding more standard CS2 sections to it to make a 3-4 or even 5-speed. All it takes is dollars.....

---

Quote:

---

Thanks a LOT Ronny for detailed answer! One thing I dont understand about Lencos and that is - why the hell they cost so much!? They are actually very simple transmissions...

---

They cost that much because racers will pay that much Have you look for used ones anywhere? At one time you could find them in National dragster occasionaly, epsecially when Pro Stock went back to conventional transmissions with slipper clutches years ago

---

I searched used ones from racingjunk.com There are couple but its quite risky especially when I cant see what I buy...only pictures and nice description may be errant

Quote:

---

hi Georg,i use a ram billet 10 inch dual disc. i bracket race with it.every other time out i pull it apart and sand the discs to get theglaze off. if i am at a two day race i will zero it out at the end of the first day.hope this helps

---

When I started racing alcohol, we would zero the clutch after the first run and then run it again and see how much it got eat up. Sometimes we would go 3 runs. It was way more fun racing then, with only 4 guys.
Then came screw blowers(Wipple) and we were lucky to get 2 runs. Then came the PSI blowers and the clutch get's fried every run. And it took 6 guys and me to maintain and race the car.

If we really miss the tuneup with it we can fry a set of brand new floaters with one run and they won't clean up even with our hi dollar grinder because of hot spots.

It's like money. I never got attached to any of my race part's.

This run the clutch was perfect, super smooth but the motor had a bit more bottem end because we retarded the cam just 1.5 degees right before this run. The car has a 11 gal fuel tank all the way up front plus I have 49 LBs of lead plate in the nose also and it still did this. We added more weight to the front after this run. I pedaled the car down with out hurting any wheels or tires, luckly.