63 New Yorker..8 quart pan never had a oil pan problems on the street!

I'd like to know how much ground clearance the guys w/ the deep pans have that say they've never had problems hitting or scraping them on the street. I know Chip's car sits pretty low up front, as does my Challenger, which does create a legit issue when using pans that hang well below the k-member.

Brad this pic gives a pretty good idea of how much room my pan has. Its a 7qt Moroso pan. Ron

Not sure if this pic gives a good idea of how much ground clearance I'd have if there was 2" of oil pan hanging down below the k-member.



I'm leaning heavily at this point to just keeping the low-tech Street Hemi pan and adding an oil accumulator to address potential cavitation issues.

Chip - Sorry for semi-hijacking your thread.

BradH...no problem, all good info. And yes, my car sits kinda low up front like your's does.

W/ 28" tall front tires I have about 3" of ground clearance. I'll have to measure it again to be sure, but it isn't much. Hot summers and a lot of beach traffic are terrible on asphault and cause bad ruts. My last trip to the beach I snagged one coming back through Conway and cracked the pan bad. I made it home w/o hurting anything, but the pan drained itself in a matter of minutes once I stopped in the driveway.

The low profile Milodons will get me another 3/4" of clearance. I hate to raise the front of the car any w/ the torsion bars b/c it hooks great and it seems to be sensitive to frontend changes. Not to mention I have the stance where I like it.

A deepened 6 pack pan would be nice, but w/ 4.5" of stroke will it cause me any more windage issues?
I don't really want to spend $260 on the low profile Milodon pan w/ ext. p/u when I have the other pan here I could drill a hole in.

Go to auto supply store and replace the small rubber lower control bumper with the large pointed one. I installed one on each side pf my Cuda and it solved my pan rubbing problem.

chip ive got a charlies 10 qt ss pan and i had a 1/4 aluminum skid plate welded to it ! need the big pan for all the windage from the big stroke !!!

Just to through this out there... All of your clearance problems would go away with a tubular front end or a cut up k-member (via SS/AH). Then you could run pretty much near a dragster pan at that point. And you don’t need a deep pan to control windage.

Last Saturday morning I drove mine to the nearest gas station I could find at Norwalk. I needed to fill up with all the runs I was making at the track. I ran into a very tore up section of construction and didn’t have any problems. And I run a 25.5 diameter front tire!

oldtimer...I already have bigger bumpstops, came in the poly energy suspension kit I installed years ago. I don't see how that would help though...it scrapes when sitting neutral, not nose-diving as if you slammed on the brakes. Unless you somehow used them to raise the ride height, which I do not want to do.

572charger and bwdst6...thanks, but a fancy new pan or a tubular frontend are out of the question right now. Just got done building a house, so the car budget is slim to say the least. If I had the money I'd definitely do it though.

Don`t use a hard rubber stop. Adjust them to about 1/8 of clearance before they touch.The soft rubber between the lca and frame makes a positive stop but will give enough for a smooth settling of the front end.

We are running a Moroso on the 70 RR. Used to have a Milodon. After I killed the 383 (nothing to so with the oil pan) DRAM refused to put it back on given the dents and the fact it showed up at his shop with a wad of JB Weld on it. He said the Moroso seems to be thicker and is a bit more robust. I would have to agree, even though the Moroso has some dents now. On the other hand, we regularly drive up a road most of you guys would use a flat bed to take your cars up. What I do is to crank up the front end for street driving (basically go for the A/FX look), then lower it at the track. I just count the turns, that might be an option for you. We also have 1" torsion bars which helps. I would like to find a set of cheap 15" wheels to replace the 14" Rallyes to gain more ground clearance but with the house build the finances are tight. Some of the situations we deal with (I am not complaining, it is all about the adventure and the journey), if I can make my oil pan survive this..:

After 12" of rain in 24 hours:


Another day during a tropical wave:



Plus we have potholes on the "paved" streets that you know are deep as there is grass a foot tall growing in them.

Dave, is that an early-1960's Land Rover?

I will assume that you dont weld or have access to
someone that does... I'm in the process of building a
new pan for my SB to fit my Rampage... I want 5" of
ground clearance(from curb height)... I was going to
add 2.5" to the stock pan but I didnt like the clearance
so I will add 1" to the currant sump depth but add
that all the way to the rear... its pretty easy to
figure out what you are adding... 231 cu inches to
a gal/4 is a QT... when you add length or width you
need to add trap doors and baffles.... of course you
need to build a new pick up(at least I do so I can
have the PU in the rear)

30931 pan is 7" deep(I had the 30930 in my chally and worked great)! I had one in dart and my car is low! a guy needed it and I traded him stuff for it... I put the source pan on the dart now and drilled a hole in the side of it with a hole saw and put in the milodon static pickup and it is the same depth! (just figured i'd throw that out there to save ya some funds but may have to ovlong some of the pan rail holes to get it to fit.... but a trick cool looking pan for the price and has a made in USA sticker on it other than that I'd drill a hole around back as suggested.


EDIT:
dont see the pan on source site anymore....