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Re: This one is for the six pack experts
[Re: RoadRunnerJD]
#1076942
09/23/11 12:17 AM
09/23/11 12:17 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 42,714
Spokane Washington
ScottSmith_Harms
Mr Wizzard
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Mr Wizzard
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 42,714
Spokane Washington
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Quote:
If the kill bleeds are not drilled (can be fixed if they are) and you have the correct metering plates and center metering block there is no reason to replace the carbs.If the air bleeds have been modified that can also be fixed.Have someone who knows 6pk carbs check them,you'll save yourself a lot of $ compared to buying a new set.
*BTW, if it makes any difference to you originals will always hold a premium value wise compared to new ones.
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Re: This one is for the six pack experts
[Re: 2002bluert]
#1076948
09/30/11 08:37 AM
09/30/11 08:37 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,476
gtx69
super gas
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super gas
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,476
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Quote:
In picture large hose on the top is wide open small hose below distributor is blocked off and large hose on the bottom goes to brake booster.
What hose do you have going to your pcv?
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Re: This one is for the six pack experts
[Re: gtx69]
#1076949
09/30/11 11:34 AM
09/30/11 11:34 AM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,537
PORT ALBERNI , BC., CANADA
superwrench
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,537
PORT ALBERNI , BC., CANADA
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Quote:
Quote:
In picture large hose on the top is wide open small hose below distributor is blocked off and large hose on the bottom goes to brake booster.
What hose do you have going to your pcv?
That's all hokey.....the booster should NOT be plumbed at the carb. It should have a vacuum fitting on a intake runner or the plenum. PCV goes on the bottom large port of the center carb.The top fitting is a vent only....can be left open.
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Re: This one is for the six pack experts
[Re: 2002bluert]
#1076952
10/06/11 01:13 AM
10/06/11 01:13 AM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,537
PORT ALBERNI , BC., CANADA
superwrench
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,537
PORT ALBERNI , BC., CANADA
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Small holes are supposed to be in the end carb throttle plates. Sounds to me like you have a bit of a raunchy cam in that thing, and the idle screw is turned up too far which is uncovering the transfer slots. You may need a ton more base timing (14-18*) so you can adjust the idle screw down. You then might find the mixture screws will have some effect. I actually had to drill some 5/32 holes in my center carb plates to help. But that's with a 270 @ .050 cam. DON'T do that UNLESS it's neccessary!!! 
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Re: This one is for the six pack experts
[Re: 2002bluert]
#1076954
10/07/11 05:05 PM
10/07/11 05:05 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
Still fighting with this set up. I changed the intake gasket because I think it had vacuum leaks, pulled the carbs and tightened all the screws because they were all lose and leaking gas,It is starting to run better but cant seem to get the idle screws in the center carb to do any thing. in all the way or all the way out and they seem to make no difference in the way it runs. I did notice that the front and back carbs have small holes drilled in the butterflies and was wondering if that is the way they are? Anyone have any ideas. Thanks 
I didn't read too much of the initial post,...so I don't know how much you may have changed in the carbs,.....but start with basics when troubleshooting, generally if you get no responce from the center carbs idle mixture screws, "assuming" you have a decent idle of 800-1000 RPM, and no known vacumm leaks,.. either you have a blown power valve, or lots of crap in the metering block orifices, I'd replace the power valve, start with the original 6.5, to get a baseline on tuning the carbs, remove and blow out with compressed air all the passages in the main center carb metering block, install a new power valve, there are 2 styles of power valves, make sure you get the correct one for the Holley 2300/6 pack series carbs.....also check the condition of the accelerator pump diaphram as you pull the carb apart, confirm the cc size, make sure the check ball and spring are present, I'd stay with a 30 cc unit, just to baseline the tuning, priority is to get the center carb to idle properly and be responsive to tuning, before you can start "playing" with the outboards
mike
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decide to sell
