Anybody have any experience using a Ford 9" in a Dart? I was told that there is a great weight advantage going this way plus you have a rearend that can stand up to the abuse of most Hemi powered motors. I've hear it might even be a directly bolt up and save over 100 lbs in weight. Also mentioned is that exhaust pipes will clear the Ford rearend much better than a Dana fitted rearend car. You also get a 5 on 4 1/2" bolt pattern which Mopar and Fords share as a bonus.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Buddy
605 390 1950 cell
ebelzer@aol.com

IIRC,there is a early ferd rustang/mavrick 8" maybe a 9" rear hosing that bolts in an A-body.

may or may not have to move spring perches

I have been looking at some of the jeep cherokee rear axles,the one my son has has the same 43" spring perch centers as a-bodys,not sure it would hold up to a BB or hemi but disc brakes maybe a plus.

with my 68 Dart,I got tired of looking and just had a c-body 8 3/4 cut down to a-body specs and got a set of large brake 5 on 4.5 wbp axle from moser.

then it bolted right in my 88 440 truck and tucks 12s with 29x15x15 M/Ts in the fenders

good luck ferd hunting

My buddy has a Ford 9" in his 68 Cuda. Ron

Unfortunately, there is no "cheap" 9" rear that will bolt into an A-body that will handle much power. 28 spline axles and small bearings will not last long.

There is a reason the common passenger car 9" weighs 60 lbs (not 100) less than a passenger car Dana 60

If you compare apples to apples, a "good" street/strip 9" rear will cost more, consume more power, and weigh about 25 lbs. less than a COMPARABLE Dana 60.

back in the early 60,s SAE engineers tested both the 8 3/4 and 9 inch---the 8 3/4 was good to 500hp and the 9 inch only 450hp---the aftermarket guys chased the 9 inch and the chevy small block in those days---the 9 inch gained 20 gear ratios and tons of add on performance parts---and the small block got the same with added competion driving down their parts prices---Dr Diff is right about the dana 60 being the best budget axle---bob

“......Unfortunately, there is no "cheap" 9" rear that will bolt into an A-body that will handle much power. 28 spline axles and small bearings will not last long……”

Ain’t that the truth. The narrowest factory 9” rears are 58” (axel flange to axel flange). The 58” version is found under 57-59 Ford Station Wagons and has 28 spline axels, usually an open differential, and rear brake drums are almost impossible to find. The other 58” unit is under the first generation Broncos, big advantage is they are 31 spline axels. Both are getting hard to find and usually not that cheap when you do. The Maverick rears are all 8” by the way.

I recently built a 9” for my 507 Cadillac powered El Camino. I started out with a $100 junk yard 59 wagon rear end and by the time it was under the El Camino I had well over $1000 in it (using the original 28 spline axels and brake drums, doing all the work myself and buying parts at my shop cost....if I had farmed it out double that cost). When you start adding up the cost of really setting up a 9” for other than just mild street use (which is how mine is) the built it gets real expensive.

Most of the 9” rears you are going to find will be too wide anyway, so figure adding the cost of narrowing the housing and custom axels. With what junk yard truck Dana 60’s can be found for (often with decent gears and LSDs) and the cost they are getting for narrowing them, you’re not any ahead using a Ford 9”.

The Lincoln Versaille rear will bolt in with disc brakes. I found one once. didn't have the time or money to snag it. Brake parts are not easy to find either.

How much power you gonna throw to it?

Ford Explorer rears are good.

Thoughts? 100lbs? I don't think so...compared to what?

Use an 8 3/4 or a Dana if you are running slicks and big power. Hard to beat the cost of a ready to run Dana 60.


Dave

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/axle_weights.htm

Hmmm; not much weight difference at all according to that.

Dave

I used a Lincoln Versailles housing in my Savoy with Moser 33 spline axles and spool.I also snagged a nodular carrier with a Daytona pinion support.I raced it for one season 100 or so passes without issues but I wouldn't run a "stock" carrier at my current power level and weight I swapped it for a Dana one of my buddies had in a Camaro.
I really do miss the ease of gear changes and ratio choices out there though I hate having to plan a build around the limited gear options you have with a Dana
I had about $1000 in the 9" with the factory housing and nodular carrier with S-10 calipers and Jeep front rotors.
It would stay together in an automatic car under 3200#
Gus