Manual Sunroof-
1974 Road Runner

This is one of those things where it sort of works ok, but you want it to work better. Like many things you have not done before on an old car, you do not want to mess it up, but once you have done it gets easy.
First you need to open your sunroof a few inches, and remove the 4 clips holding your headliner panel to the sliding panel. Since mine was just the panel skeleton with no headliner left, it was even easier.





Then you open the sun roof, leave the headliner forward, pull up in the middle to get it out of the tracks, and remove. It is just for looks and has nothing to do with function. (and since it only has a few fossil remains of headliner was not exactly doing me any good for looks)



Now it is time to mess with the sliding panel. Close it almost all the way.
Look at the front brackets at each side.



Remove the outer bolt. Set it aside. It looks like the back bolts but is longer.



Now just loosen the inner bolt, and twist the bracket out of the tracks towards the middle of the car. Just enough to get out of the tracks and clear the opening is fine.
Do that on each side.

Now look at the back sides of the sliding panel. There is a flex tab there. pull down at the tip, and slide it towards the middle of the car and get it out from under the little roller. There is another bracket there. Just remove the two short bolts from each side. A small T shaped plate will come with them. If you cannot quite reach these well, close the sliding panel a little more.



Now you can remove the sunroof from the car.
No good pics from it, but the area between the roof and pan where the sliding panel goes when opened was full of mud, dirt, pine needles, wasp nests, etc. I spent quite a while cleaning it out.
If you just want to drop the whole pan and assembly, there are speed nuts to do so, and you would have to have the head liner not in and remove the bows.



I don't think you could get the pan out of the car in a RR unless you removed the rear quarter windows and I did not try it.
I planned to show you the cables, etc. but work has already called half a dozen times today, I will probably end up going in, and it is supposed to rain tonight.

I will get to that later. For now I just put it back in.

I also will probably end up dropping the pan sometime. I would really like to hit the roof and pan with rust converter, rust encapsulator, and then chassis black. I may end up just using that frame coating with the 18 inch hose on the nozzle.

This needs to be moved to the retoration area or the tech archives.. it has good information and great pictures.

sorry, I put it under general thinking it was for genera information.

I don't know how to move it.

No you did right. I am reccomending to the Mods to move it. This is a great place for it to be seen by many. and you did good on the photos and instructions.

Leave the rear side windows in, but remove the front seat(s).

Part II
Adjustments
You should not need much side to side adjustment in your sliding panel. If so, just loosen the front bracket and rear bracket bolts, adjust, then tighten.

The height of front and rear is where you will typically need some adjustments.
To adjust the front, loosen the two bolts. Turn the round knob to adjust up or down.
Then tighten. This works fine on mine and the height holds.



For the rear height you go back to the rear brackets.
See that bolt behind the spring tab? You want to loosen that slightly. Put your sliding panel at the height you want, then tighten.



When you raise or lower the sliding panel to match the roof height, it position changes on that hinged slider bar. You can only tighten a little bolt like this so much. But for me the position is only temporary.



I can get perfect alignment.
But between slamming doors, etc. it will not stay. Just not enough oomph left in the bolts or adjusting tab anymore.




Some say it is impossible for these to leak, because of the hose and pan system. Well, I guarantee you in a hard, windy rain, if you can't get better adjustment than this, you WILL get water in your car that is not caught by the pan and drained out the hoses.

You CAN, if like me no headliner, put little blocks between the rear of the sliding panel and pan to hold the alignment. It will still leak some, as designed. A little leaking like that should be caught by the pan and drained out the hoses. But what if your hoses are clogged? That's why they make air compressors, blow them out or snake them with something or replace them. What if you are parked on a bad slope. The seal between the pan and roof is not that spectacular. It could leak between the pan, roof, and seal if tipped over on a slope.

ALSO, look at the screws here.

The front ones are holding on the cable cover and covering up the gear. The side ones are part of your tracks (cables running parallel to line of screws).



See where they come out through the roof?



Even though they would be covered by a foam insulating pad and a headliner in a finished car,



you know water will get through them unless you use some sort of thread sealant.
Or maybe someone put in the wrong length screws at some point in the cars past, because mine go through the foam even and you know that means through the headliner possibly.



My car has to live outside.

Even if you get perfect adjustment for closing the sliding panel (I don't), have good draining hoses (I do) and a solid pan without holes (I do), and perfect, non-reproduced weather stripping (I don't) you WILL get some leaking around the sliding panel into the pan. For some of you, this may stay in the pan and go out the hoses .

(another issue for later, they do not actually exit the car, just go behind your kick panels up front and by your rear wheel behind the lower rear interior panels in the back- tell me that is not begging for issues long term)





For some of us (ME) I have gotten a decent puddle behind the passenger seat, and behind the driver's seat parked in another location.

These cars should REALLY be indoor cars.

That not being the case for me and for some of you-
possibilities are:
car cover
strips of those flexible magnet sheets along the sliding panel / roof border
a 36" by 48" magnet sheet would cover the whole thing
etc.

I've owned '83 and '85 Celica GT-Ss, both of which had AC installed sunroofs which are very similar. The lower end of the rear drain tubes connected to rubber drain grommets (similar to that of a firewall A/C condenser drain) in the lower quarter panel extensions which allowed any water to drain outside the body structure.

What does the rear, lower bracket bolt thread into? On my Celicas I recall the tension spring (which is supposed to lift the rear edge of the sunroof panel into position as it gets close to fully closed) would lose some of its spring over the year and had to be re-arched.

Does www.sunroofdoctor.com carry anything you can use?

It just threads into a dinky bracket. Easy to strip if you really get after it.

OK, no pics of removing the cables yet.

But here is my temporary leak solution.

If you do not store indoors, at worst you can have serious leaks that make it out of the pan. At best you will have some water sitting in the pan, going down the hoses into areas that can also rust, etc.

I ordered a 24x48 car magnet.

Not the quietest choice of design, but on a vintage Mopar it will get by:

You should completely strip or remove your sunroof and get rid of any surface rust. Clean and lube everything and hopefully it will work/close better if all your parts are in good working order. There is a guy that sells reproduction seals and has good used weatherstrip for A, B & E-body sunroofs or at least he did when I had my sunroof Duster several years ago.

Good luck with your sunroof project.

Who's that?