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I think a 700-800 horse stock block is gonna be a time bomb but there are guys getting away with it with a stud girdle and aluminum main caps.
My last 2 400 motors went 6.20's with around 650 HP at 3050 and 3200 pounds, one was a 451 and one was a 500. I used the 400 block and aluminum caps, no girdle.
The 3050 pound car had Eddy heads and a 590 purpleshaft cam.
The 3200 pound car had older 440-1 heads(329 cfm) and a roller cam. Both were pretty much pump gas motors.

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ok guys i have did alot of reading and asking?????there are alot of guys that say your best bet is go 400 block for my stroker build,then some say 440 is fine...how many of you guys have had a 700/800 400 and did it last,did you use a girdle,did you half fill,full fill it??????i know its alot of ???? but how are you going to learn???? also i know get a race block but 4000.00 block is not in the budget right now and im ready to get some work going on this thing soon....now the reason i was hooked on the 440 is some parts i have are 440 but i can sell or trade for 400 stuff....
so this is what i'm lookin or wanting to do car will be backhalf ladderbar coilover,glass bumpers,deck,hood,and maybe doors 70 duster...front will be converted over to coilover,and rack,so im thinking 27/2800lbs also my do lexan glass in all doors not sure yet...would like to put this thing in the 5.90/6.0 range at most any time ...
so lets hear about the bad 400 and why you went 400...im just trying to get this thing going to race,but would like for it to be able to be around til i can shoot for the race block..

as i said i know get the race block but please read not in the budget right now...

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I'd do the 4.25" arm with "440" mains in a 400 block using alloy caps. 512"ish with a MW port area in an SR or EZ head because your choice for rockers is cheaper if you decide to put a gentle roller in it. There is a Duster for sale out of Florida (green) in these classifieds you can pattern your build after or even just buy the car.

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I built a 400 into a 500" stroker. was lucky and started with the '71 400 block. Added BCR aluminum caps and stud girdle. No block fill (street car).
I think the cost of the engine block, main caps, stud girdle kit, and machining to fit the main caps and girdle was about $1,500. This could have gone towards a race block, but I'm on a budget too.
Being on a budget I used the 440 source 500 stroker kit, flat top pistons, with the longer 6.76" rods which is one of the lightest bobweight kits so it should not stress the block as much as the longer stroke, shorter rod, heavier 512" kit.
I have chassis dynoed the engine to 7000+ RPM, but with my mild cam I usually shift under 6,500 RPM at the track. Rear wheel HP was around 560 HP in full street trim. I would guess easy 650+ at the crank?
Engine is using Edelbrock Max wedge Victor heads, and an INDY 4150 flange intake, and 1,000 cfm HP carb. I think the carb may be a bit too small for the engine? The one issue of using a 400 block is there is not as large selection of intake manifolds compared to the 440 block. [/quote What cam with this combo ?

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Not was wide or as tall (hood) as a RB block. Also I feel the cylinders and main webs are a little less likely to crack on the 400 blocks.

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I think a 700-800 horse stock block is gonna be a time bomb but there are guys getting away with it with a stud girdle and aluminum main caps.
My last 2 400 motors went 6.20's with around 650 HP at 3050 and 3200 pounds, one was a 451 and one was a 500. I used the 400 block and aluminum caps, no girdle.
The 3050 pound car had Eddy heads and a 590 purpleshaft cam.
The 3200 pound car had older 440-1 heads(329 cfm) and a roller cam. Both were pretty much pump gas motors.

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Very intresting u run that fast,Im getting ready to get mine to the track, 383,with indy heads,and a 4.25 stroke crank and have been wondering what kinda times it will run, u r starting to scare me LOL

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