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Re: Rust Holes Repair
[Re: lahatte]
#1059250
08/23/11 12:04 PM
08/23/11 12:04 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 15,134
Kelowna, B.C. Canada
DPelletier
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 15,134
Kelowna, B.C. Canada
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Quote:
That reminds me, there's that body panel glue that the shops use now. I understand it holds like mad. With that I should be able to cut some patch metal and just glue it to the backside of the rust holes areas. That might just be the ticket. I had thought about doing that originally, but it slipped my mind.
Thoughts on that approach?
*sigh* yes, just another bandaid. There really is no easy way to do it right. Welding up pinholes is fine, but that only works if the surrounding metal is decent. If you have small areas that are pitted and weak with multiple pinholes, you need to cut it out and weld in a small patch panel.
Depending on the amount of rust repair required, I would always prefer to repair original quarters over new skins or new full quarters.
I will quit posting on this thread; pretty sure you know my opinion by now! 
good luck,
Dave
1970 Super Bee 440 Six Pack
1974 'Cuda
2008 Ram 3500 Diesel
2006 Ram 3500 Diesel
2004.5 Ram 2500 Diesel
2003 Ram 3500 Diesel
2006 Durango Limited
[url] http://1970superbee.piczo.com [/url]
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Re: Rust Holes Repair
[Re: lahatte]
#1059256
08/25/11 10:07 AM
08/25/11 10:07 AM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
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Quote:
70cuda383, nice job on the wheel lip. What kind of rust converter are you using? How do you think it works?
Thanks. it definitely was a lot of welding and a lot of grinding. it would have been nice to have a wheel, then I could have maybe tried to fabricate the entire outer section with all those compound curves, instead of making so many small patches welded together.
but...in the end, whatever works. the money spent on an english wheel could be spent on car parts! I'm not going into business, or planning on doing more than 1 car. as it is now, I've got my reg cab Dakota with a 360 and a 5 spd, lowered sport suspension, and it's a total blast to drive...I'll have my Cuda once it's done, my wife is an only child, so she'll be inheriting her father's restored 69 mach 1 Mustang eventually (at the rate I'm going, probably before I get my Cuda done!!  ) some day I'll inherit my dad's street van...I don't see myself having the time/space to do another car!
--or desire!! this is a ton of nasty, dirty, sweaty, bloody work!
oh, and to answer your question, the rust converter I used was Purple Power rust converter. comes in a quart sized bottle for about $6. I poured it into an empty windex bottle, and sprayed it on. worked like a charm.
I then covered everything with the rust encapsulater Zero Rust from Resto Rick.
as I'm welding panels back on now, the heat is making the fresh Zero Rust paint lift a little, but once everything is cool, I'll hit it again with some paint and let it sit. eventually this paint will be so hard that nothing will make it lift!
**Photobucket sucks**
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. JC.
