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Re: Crank won't turn... Help. UPDATE... UGH! [Re: Big Bad Bee] #1057590
08/21/11 09:42 PM
08/21/11 09:42 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,007
Bend,OR USA
C
Cab_Burge Offline
I Win
Cab_Burge  Offline
I Win
C

Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,007
Bend,OR USA
Find out how bad the rust is in that cylinder, you also need to know what existing the bore size is so you know if you can clean it up by boring or if it will need a sleeve Try sqirting some liquid wrench(not WD40 ) in that cylinder several times, take a wire brush or wire wheel on a drill motor and knock the heavy rust out of and then see if you can beg,borrow or buy one of the glaze breaker cylinder hones to smooth that bore up so the piston will come out Go from there. Do you have access to a competent crankshaft grinder? If so you may want to have the crankshaft offset ground to BB Chevy rod journal size and stroke the stock crankshaft to 3.91 stroke KB makes several really good sets of forged shelf pistons in different compression ratio for that combination using a 7.100 long H beam BB Chevy rod for the 440 blocks That combination ended up being quite a bit cheaper than using the stock Mopar size forged steel H beam rods and stroke on the last bracket motor I built for a customer Check it out before deciding, you may save some money and make more power Sorry for the rusted cylinder, been there done that


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: Crank won't turn... Help. UPDATE... UGH! [Re: Cab_Burge] #1057591
08/21/11 09:58 PM
08/21/11 09:58 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,762
Hot Rod Ridge
FastmOp Offline
master
FastmOp  Offline
master

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,762
Hot Rod Ridge
I have ran worse

clean that bore up with trans fluid and a scotchbrite pad. I know it's not ideal but it's the low buck motors that keep a guy playing instead of wrenching. If it smokes a little that's just part of cheep.

I built ford with a blower that had .020 deep sections of a couple bores rusted away. It ran like a top.

Re: Crank won't turn... Help. UPDATE... UGH! [Re: FastmOp] #1057592
08/21/11 10:34 PM
08/21/11 10:34 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
Big Bad Bee Offline OP
I Live Here
Big Bad Bee  Offline OP
I Live Here

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
I haven't tried it since pulling the heads, but the engine does rotate a third turn. It's not rusted past the rings. Stupid question. If I drop the crank can I take the piston out the bottom end of the bore?


I’m listening.
Re: Crank won't turn... Help. UPDATE... UGH! [Re: Big Bad Bee] #1057593
08/21/11 10:36 PM
08/21/11 10:36 PM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY Offline
Master
MR_P_BODY  Offline
Master

Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
Quote:

I haven't tried it since pulling the heads, but the engine does rotate a third turn. It's not rusted past the rings. Stupid question. If I drop the crank can I take the piston out the bottom end of the bore?




No

Re: Crank won't turn... Help. UPDATE... UGH! [Re: Big Bad Bee] #1057594
08/21/11 10:47 PM
08/21/11 10:47 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,007
Bend,OR USA
C
Cab_Burge Offline
I Win
Cab_Burge  Offline
I Win
C

Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,007
Bend,OR USA
Quote:

I haven't tried it since pulling the heads, but the engine does rotate a third turn. It's not rusted past the rings. Stupid question. If I drop the crank can I take the piston out the bottom end of the bore?


Only if you break it into small pieces, I have seen cast pistons destroyed that way in the oil pan after a valve broke Get to scrubbing that rust away, it ain't hard


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: Crank won't turn... Help. UPDATE... UGH! [Re: Cab_Burge] #1057595
08/22/11 12:09 AM
08/22/11 12:09 AM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
Big Bad Bee Offline OP
I Live Here
Big Bad Bee  Offline OP
I Live Here

Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
Quote:

Find out how bad the rust is in that cylinder, you also need to know what existing the bore size is so you know if you can clean it up by boring or if it will need a sleeve Try sqirting some liquid wrench(not WD40 ) in that cylinder several times, take a wire brush or wire wheel on a drill motor and knock the heavy rust out of and then see if you can beg,borrow or buy one of the glaze breaker cylinder hones to smooth that bore up so the piston will come out Go from there. Do you have access to a competent crankshaft grinder? If so you may want to have the crankshaft offset ground to BB Chevy rod journal size and stroke the stock crankshaft to 3.91 stroke KB makes several really good sets of forged shelf pistons in different compression ratio for that combination using a 7.100 long H beam BB Chevy rod for the 440 blocks That combination ended up being quite a bit cheaper than using the stock Mopar size forged steel H beam rods and stroke on the last bracket motor I built for a customer Check it out before deciding, you may save some money and make more power Sorry for the rusted cylinder, been there done that




I DO have a competent crankshaft grinder. An old friend who specializes in crank grinding for big diesels. He does hotrods too. You've got me thinking... Maybe I sell my 400 stroker crank and have him turn my forged 440 crank and buy a set of rods and pistons... Hmmmmm.


I’m listening.
Re: Crank won't turn... Help. UPDATE... UGH! [Re: Big Bad Bee] #1057596
08/22/11 07:34 AM
08/22/11 07:34 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,142
Central New York
slippery440 Offline
Crybaby440
slippery440  Offline
Crybaby440

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,142
Central New York
Quote:

Quote:

I'm betting on rust in the cylinders first and then a stuck valve in a guide Please let us know what you find




Ding! Ding! Ding! Winner, winner, chicken dinner!!!

Well, here's what I found.

7 of the bores look like this.


Give or take carbon, but they all look nice. That is except for #8 which looks like this.

#6 is okay but you can see where some moisture was in the head affecting that plug, and #8's valves were rusted up nicely...


All the lifters looked pretty with the exception of a couple that looked like they may not be rotating in the bore real good. smooth but black stains. the two on the back end were gummy as you can see and the cam looked gummy too. The lifters came out with a little coaxing gooey orange in the top from rust but still functioned. The cam looked pretty except for the back end which looked like this.


You think thats why it didn't turn over? Mabe you should of figured that out before you ask people for oppinions on why it won't turn over. Looks like a junk scrap yard motor to me. THE BIG GUY


If the MODS did their job I would not be hitting the notify MOD button. LOL
Re: Crank won't turn... Help. UPDATE... UGH! [Re: slippery440] #1057597
08/22/11 10:30 AM
08/22/11 10:30 AM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 6,257
acworth / N. georgia - south e...
cheapstreetdustr Offline
master
cheapstreetdustr  Offline
master

Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 6,257
acworth / N. georgia - south e...
i think that was a running motor up until the point the mudd boggers vehicle rolled over and the motor sucked or got water in it..
sorry to see this...it ugly..

cheapst


365" Iron J heads,,3480lbs best 1.39 60ft on SS springs.10.54,124 mph ...6.67 1/8th et.average 60fts 1.46 w/ small cam &.063 no2 pill tagged & insured
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