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Re: subframe connectors [Re: dangina] #1041784
07/30/11 09:02 PM
07/30/11 09:02 PM
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 801
central CT
cudazappa Offline
super stock
cudazappa  Offline
super stock

Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 801
central CT
SCCA allows weld in in all classes. But it can only be welded fore and aft. It is allowed to touch the floor pan. This applies to stock, street prepared and street mod classes. If you're playing in prepared, get a roll cage and gut the car...

IIRC there's been a recent rule change that allows a third (mid) point allowed to the subframe connector. I think this was about fox body 'stangs had an interferance issue with their seat so basically now the seat bolts to the SFC...

The quick way to install SFCs is to buy bolt ins and just weld them in. I went with autorust technicians 2x2 weld in kit and I had to slit the floors to allow them to pop through (at most 1/8", can't see underneath the carpet). Took me a one Saturday.


1971 Challenger
Re: subframe connectors [Re: johnscudashop] #1041785
07/30/11 09:46 PM
07/30/11 09:46 PM
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 273
FL
74-440Charger Offline
enthusiast
74-440Charger  Offline
enthusiast

Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 273
FL
What gage metal are those connectors made from? They do look good

Re: subframe connectors [Re: dangina] #1041786
07/31/11 05:23 AM
07/31/11 05:23 AM
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
Kern Dog Offline
Striving for excellence
Kern Dog  Offline
Striving for excellence

Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
I made my own for the FrankenDuster. I bought 3x3 .120 wall tubing. I took cardboard and made templates of the floorpan, then traced the outlines on the tubing. They fit against the floor like the US CarTool units for a FRACTION of the cost. They are welded to the torsion bar crossmember, the floor and the rear rails. I drilled 3 holes in the bottom, 1/2" in size to make sure any water that may get in has a way out. They were epoxy primed then finished with seam sealer and undercoating. I wish I had pictures to show. They look like Plymouth built the car that way.

On a related note: Who would agree that the TALLER that the connectors are, the more rigidity they add? It seems in theory that 1x3 or 2 round tubes side by side are likely NOT as strong. This isn't meant to derail the OPs "Cheap and easy" requests, just an alternative question.....

Re: subframe connectors [Re: topside] #1041787
07/31/11 08:10 AM
07/31/11 08:10 AM
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 10,847
Oakdale CT
gdonovan Offline
I Live Here
gdonovan  Offline
I Live Here

Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 10,847
Oakdale CT
Quote:

These older cars are so flexible that almost any added structure is a noticeable improvement in rigidity.




Years ago my Dart (slant six converted to 340 with a stick) use to flex around so bad from the daily pounding that the floor pan was cracking around the transmission tunnel!

Picked up a set of bars at a swap meet and welded them in place front and rear and the difference was night and day. Had problems getting the car to hook up after that because the body was no longer absorbing the "blow" when letting the clutch fly.

Re: subframe connectors [Re: Kern Dog] #1041788
08/01/11 11:49 PM
08/01/11 11:49 PM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 862
Iowa State fan
kilroy Offline
super stock
kilroy  Offline
super stock

Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 862
Iowa State fan
Quote:


On a related note: Who would agree that the TALLER that the connectors are, the more rigidity they add? It seems in theory that 1x3 or 2 round tubes side by side are likely NOT as strong. This isn't meant to derail the OPs "Cheap and easy" requests, just an alternative question.....




Technically 1x3 are taller, just in a different plane. and also technically a cylinder has one of the strongest crush factors...as long as it isnt impacted in the side.


1973 Charger, former SE, former auto

I'm not trying to be difficult, it comes naturally....
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