Guys,

I need an MC for a brake upgrade I'm doing.

I'm going from drum/drum to disc/drum on a '74 Duster. Got all the parts with the exception of the MC.

I'd like to go manual discs on the front to save as much room as possible for the 440. Right now, all I can seem to find in the way of MC's are for power disc brakes.

Can I use one designed for power brakes or do I need to get an actual manual brake unit?

My first time doing this swap. Can ya help a brutha out?

Maggot

walked into a auto parts store and ordered one for my 68 barracuda , manual with front discs , after i changed from front drums

I use the same piece of iron. works fine.

i use a MC OFF 1980 dodge truck with disc/drum no power brand new was 36$ lightweight same as the 100$ piece they try to sell you
jmo

I use a disc/drum mc from a volare on my barracuda. works fine.

I got mine from O'reillys if that helps any.

..when we bore our engines we use bigger pistons.
..when a master cyl is rebuilt the same size rubber pistons are used and can sometimes leak.
.. make sure it's a new unit.
.. i like Master Power stuff...very hi quality.

best way is to use a 4 bolt to 2 bolt adaptor on the firewall and use a newer style 2 bolt alum MC from mid 80s car/truck

gives much more room with the BB in A-bodys

dr diff sells a nice adaptor,MP sells one,you can even get an offset one for a hemi in an A-body

I used the mp adaptor and adjustable brake rod from master power brake

used the 73 manual disc brakes with 11x2.5 rear drums on my 68 Dart

I used the stock 2 bolt alum MC off the power brake set up on my 88 truck and made my own 4 bolt to 2 bolt alum plate for firewall support to go manual brakes,manual steer,manaul shift with the 440 in the truck

If your current (drum/drum) M/C is good keep it! Take off the lines from it & stick a drill bit deep into the brass cone in the half closest to the firewall as that is the half that will power the front discs and if there is no residual pressure valve (RPV) you are set & it's just a piece of neoprene on top of a spring & you'll feel the springiness if it is there. Disc/drum M/C's have a larger reservoir in the rear (disc) half as discs do use a bit more fluid vol when applied as opposed to a wheel cyl & if grandma does not have her M/C checked regularly it could eventually get low enough to run out of enough fluid during a panic stop and the resulting lawsuit could b disastrous but for enthusiasts such as ourselves who keep fluid levels topped off you'll be fine. If you do have to get a M/C make sure the tapered inside recess of the rear piston (it's like a thimble) has a shallow recess for the neoprene retainer on the pushrod to lock into and Manual brake M/C's must have this piston recess but mistakes do happen and I would contact Doc for the right bore size to get, though I have a 1&1/8" bore M/C on a disc (74)/drum (10") on a 65 dart & no probs & I (re)used the OE drum/drum splitter which is not the way it is supposed to b done but stops perfect & no excessive front pad (semi mets) wear.

Seth, thanks for the part number. Went down and ordered one today and will pick it up tomorrow.

Seemed like the best option. No adapters, mods, etc. Just bolt on and go. I knew it was an option on the car, just couldn't find the reman part number.

For anyone interested - Kragen/O'Rielly, Cardone #10-1627

Maggot

If your car has a 2 bolt master cyl. on it already, would you still need the adapter? I'm thinking not, but thought Iwould throw it out there. I have a 63 Valiant.

It'll be a straight R&R for me. Can't get easier than that.

Maggot

measure the bolt spaceing on the MC and compair it to the newer style alum bolt spaceing.

dont that 63 MC only have 1 line from it?

you would have to add in the other lines to go with it.

Yes it only has 1 line. I have to change it all up anyways as I am adding wilwood disks for the 9" drum spindles. The rear drums are from a Ford Maverick as is the rear. I figured I would do it while the engine is out.