This is mentioned on hughes site as well but if you have the block or are looking for a block to use the link bar hydros you got to make sure the tops of the lifter bores do not have the big chamfer? on them, some are a much a 1/8 .125 and will uncover the lifter oiling band.

If you get the huhges cam they cut a lower base circle and not cam grinders do.

I did just read you have a early block which is a plus.

I dont think its year specific but here has to be a pattern on why or what blocks got the big chamfer on top of the lifter bores but my mid 70-s blocks are no gos but I bought a pallet of no vin replacement blocks 25 years ago that were all very early 360 blocks and they all would accept the lifters.

I dont know you altitude but on builds like you posted with the kb107 with a j head and the good old blue flepro gasket, if the block leaves them .010 below deck you might consider leaving that because if its a pump gas street driver you plan to drive alot a hair below deck wont hurt your performance but zero deck can still sometimes ping with the ever worseoning pump gas.

Not sure what your expectations are on power output but its a no brainer to get a 430-440hp and equal tq or better at the crank. I used to dyno builds like this but it got to the point they were cookie cutter and no reason to.

If you can do the little bit of minor bowl and port match you will get better returns from 1/2 a days worth of grinding the 2 days of guessing as the benifits vs time is not linear.

One other thing off the top of my head is the is no reason not to use a good quality 5/16 pushrod and your probably still going to have to clearance your pushrod holes just a hair so the wont rub but its easy to determine how much after you get the shortblock done and mock up a head/rockers and such.