OK. Old ray and I have been communicating by email. But just in case someone is following along and wants to know a good fix for this, I feel the need to include what I would do here. Understand, this isn't the only way, but its how I would do it.

He has removed the shackles. He will be using lengths of pipe just large enough for the bolts to pass through. If there are threads cut into the pipe, cut them off, start with full thickness pipe or tube. Grind clean all areas that will be welded, at least 1/2" all around the weld area.

Enlarge the shackle bolt holes on the outside of the frame (the non-shackle side), just large enough to insert the pipe through. It is not necessary to enlarge the holes for the shackle side of the frame. Through these enlarges holes, use a punch or a piece of pipe and be sure the shackle side of the frame is flat. It should tap flat pretty easily. You can use a flat plate against the frame to be sure you don't bend it too far.

Insert the pipe through the enlarged shackle bolt holes and be sure the bolts pass through without dragging on the sides. Be sure the pipe is square to the frame surface and bottomed out against the shackle side of the frame. Weld around the tubing for all 4 bolt holes on the non-shackle side of the frame, and grind the surface flat.

Weld the exhaust tube to both sides of the frame, leaving a little of the tube above the frame surface. Cut 2 plates, one for each side of the frame. With the close proximity of the shackle to the exhaust tube, I would at least extend the non shackle side out 1" past the shackle bolt holes. The shackle side either needs to be cut short enough to not interfere with the shackle mounting after its welded, or it needs to extend out far enough for the shackle to mount flat against it. If it extends out far enough for the shackle to mount on the plate, you will need to transfer the shackle bolt holes to the plate (I'll cover that later).


The thickness of the plates should be 1/8" or 11 gauge. Any thicker is a waste of material and is more difficult to work with. The plates need to extend out forward and rearward at least 1" (1 1/2" would be better) beyond the exhaust tube welded to the frame, and should match the top and the bottom of the frame. If it includes the shackle bolt holes, it needs to extend at least 1" beyond the farthest away hole (or however far you need for the shackle to lay flat without encountering the weld seam.

Then cut the hole to fit over the exhaust tube and the existing weld, and trim the plate to match up with the frame. Both plates will have to sit tight against the frame to be effective. If the shackle ends up sitting on the plate, I would do the shackle side first. Position the plate over the exhaust tube, align it with the frame, clamp it tight against the frame side and weld to the exhaust tube. Then weld all around the outside of the plate. With the correct size drill, use the shackle bolt hole spacers as a guide and drill the holes through the shackle side plate from the outside. Make sure the shackle bolt holes line up and you will be able to bolt the shackles on the frame. This is the time to "adjust" the bolt holes.

Once you know the shackle will bolt on the back side, remove the shackle, and follow the same procedure for the front plate, position over the exhaust tube, position the plate to align up with the top and bottom of the frame, clamp tight, weld around the exhaust tube. Weld around the outside of the plate, and drill the shackle mounting holes using the bolt hole spacers as a guide to drill the holes through the front plate from the shackle side. There will be no need to weld either side of the shackle bolt holes to the plates. Bolt on the shackle to the frame with grade 8 hardware.

Repeat the process on the other side. Gene