Thanks for the replies and advice everyone. I guess I was looking for someone to tell me that it wasn't necessary when I knew in my heart that it was?
So far, the plugs are out, the block plate is on as is the flywheel. I will bolt the bellhousing on and get the dial indicator set up. I have a buddy who says he can come by this weekend to help spin the engine while I write down the readings. It seems pretty straight forward from there. I have watched numerous YouTube videos on the subject.
Thanks for the heads up about the size of the dowels. I was looking on Summit's page and they list Ford/Mopar as .500", but if you look at the reviews there are comments from the Mopar guys saying that are too tight and needed to be modified. This saved me a HUGE amount of frustration in the near future. I will order the correct dowels from the link provided above.
Hopefully, I'll update this thread later in the week with good news. Thanks again!
Me too, ever since my Dad (and I) came home with one in '66. Light metallic blue with blue interior & AC being the difference between his & the ad car.
On the '67 B-bodies I've worked on the OEM tanks were galvanized. Of the replacements, all were galvanized except one which was painted. I don't think you could ever maintain a "like new" galvanized appearance without some kind of clear coat. We've all seen galvanized parts weather and this would be no exception. For the last one I have to do, I'm going with stainless, I'll give up the appearance to get get away from the corrosion concern.
Well. I got the NOS R12 expansion valve in with all the correct size o rings from multiple places, evacuated the system and pressurized it to 100 lbs with nitrogen. I found two small leaks with the nitrogen at the schrader valves. I replaced them repeated and they held. I filled it with liquid gold, R12 to the proper amount and it comes out of the vents at 34-38 degrees.
And it would take me off as a potantial buyer if it is a more genuine muscle car which has original sheetmetal. I wouldn't want those on a more original car.
I had some of them, too but on a non numbers non collectible Mopar were it doesn't matter if you play with it.
The best ones they offer for race motors, series 3 for my street and strip builds with roller cam motors having under 700 Lbs. pressure over the nose They are not cheap though, i use to buy and use Smith Bros but stop doing that several years back after getting three bad sets
Follow up, used a 45 JIC fitting, and it provides the clearance needed. Been driving with no leaks, need to get motivated and build the AC lines, summer is almost here……
The 4500 to 4150 adapter is slick since it only adds 1/2 inch to the height of the manifold. The taper part of the adapter hangs down inside the plenum of the 4500 intake. Obviously the intake manifold has to be designed for this adapter. I didn't check the Brodix website for this adapter so I don't know if it is still available. I'd never seen one of these before.
Crazy this car is local to me and I pretty much know all the local cars but have never seen this car. Of course Florida is the new world and people are coming here like crazy.
I have a pair of new individual W2 race head casting number P4532693. These heads have no machining performed. As delivered by Mopar including 3/8” iron valve guides and closed chambers. These heads requires the use of T&D or Jesel rocker systems.
Price is $1,100 for the set plus shipping.
Email me at procketrichard@hotmail.com with any questions or for more pictures.
Pacnorth - no rear body trim. That IS an assumption hat those holes weren't filled, though. I owned a '74 Barracuda 340 that wasn't a 'Cuda - same deal: scooped hood but no rear panel blackout or surround moldings.
And the fact that there are no hood call out emblem holes would follow your assumption….but all that fresh yellow paint leads one to wonder what really is under all that.
That brake rod adjuster is between the booster and the master cylinder. That may be something the manufacturers eliminated as a cost cutting feature on the newer vehicles, I don't have anything newer then a 04 and I have not taken the master cylinder off the booster on that ride.
You may want to keep an eye on the drilled hole to be sure it doesn't start spitting out brake fluid into the engine compartment. The last I heard, brake fluid is still effective at removing paint from everything.
I completely understand the “paint Removal” with brake fluid. Bin there done that 😂😂😂 The hole I drilled is about 1/64”. Not big at all, but I will be monitoring for a while. The channel in the master cylinder cap is much larger than the hole I drilled.
I think $6,000 for something that clean, and in appealing colors, is a deal. With fewer doors, I'm thinking it would be worth quite a bit more...heck, I'd probably have to have it...
i certainly agree with your "as long as it holds it's shape" statement. you need to be very careful handling it after forming it's shape, but the stuff i have is quite a bit stiffer than the stuff originally used for that purpose.
Big things are happening at Mancini Racing these days. Just recently did Mancini announce that longtime Mopar Parts Manager Dave Radcliffe bowed out of his role at Roseville Moparts and joined the team at Mancini. With this move comes 30 years of experience and intimate know-how that will be used to troubleshoot existing products and better develop future products sold exclusively through Mancini Racing.
Yup. It’s an A/C bracket left on the intake when a previous owner removed the air components from the car. Did a google search and finally found some good pics of a factory A/C set-up.
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