How can you go to the racetrack in ANY car that unprepared, I mean they cannot even look at data or make ANY changes to the tune up. Let alone one that has potential to be much faster than anything you have ever dirven....Reminds of alot of the TS and TD guys who punch above their weight class because they have the money to do so. What that old saying more money than brains. Also I assume since I clicked on the first link is why I'm seeing all their stuff pop up now. Now to get out of that algorithm
SpeedMaster seems awfully expensive for what it is. They're marking it way up.
Why let greedy corporations like Speedmaster sit in their ivory tower making money when it's much cheaper to deal directly with the source in Zhejiang, China and buy from Ningbo Beyond Auto Parts Co., Ltd???
I have been running an 800 AVS for years. For you application a little AVS2 would be fine. My personal experience with Demon was from 2009. 825 mighty demon. When I got it is was brand new and had metal slivers throughout the carb. All the air bleeds slots were striped like a ham fisted monkey installed them. After cleaning it out, I really liked the carb, remember this was quite a long time ago and quality control could have improved but I personally would not get another Demon carb.
Thanks for the replies and advice everyone. I guess I was looking for someone to tell me that it wasn't necessary when I knew in my heart that it was?
So far, the plugs are out, the block plate is on as is the flywheel. I will bolt the bellhousing on and get the dial indicator set up. I have a buddy who says he can come by this weekend to help spin the engine while I write down the readings. It seems pretty straight forward from there. I have watched numerous YouTube videos on the subject.
Thanks for the heads up about the size of the dowels. I was looking on Summit's page and they list Ford/Mopar as .500", but if you look at the reviews there are comments from the Mopar guys saying that are too tight and needed to be modified. This saved me a HUGE amount of frustration in the near future. I will order the correct dowels from the link provided above.
Hopefully, I'll update this thread later in the week with good news. Thanks again!
Me too, ever since my Dad (and I) came home with one in '66. Light metallic blue with blue interior & AC being the difference between his & the ad car.
On the '67 B-bodies I've worked on the OEM tanks were galvanized. Of the replacements, all were galvanized except one which was painted. I don't think you could ever maintain a "like new" galvanized appearance without some kind of clear coat. We've all seen galvanized parts weather and this would be no exception. For the last one I have to do, I'm going with stainless, I'll give up the appearance to get get away from the corrosion concern.
That's pretty impressive getting down into the 11.60's for a daily driver!!
There is a guy here locally that has a 5.7 RT when he comes to the track he literally strips the car of its interior including the door panels - it gets him into the low 12's
What diam.? I have the 10.95 set up in my car I went down the road of putting 10.5 on because of the bolt pattern but had better luck with the 10.95, even over the green clutch.
Well. I got the NOS R12 expansion valve in with all the correct size o rings from multiple places, evacuated the system and pressurized it to 100 lbs with nitrogen. I found two small leaks with the nitrogen at the schrader valves. I replaced them repeated and they held. I filled it with liquid gold, R12 to the proper amount and it comes out of the vents at 34-38 degrees.
And it would take me off as a potantial buyer if it is a more genuine muscle car which has original sheetmetal. I wouldn't want those on a more original car.
I had some of them, too but on a non numbers non collectible Mopar were it doesn't matter if you play with it.
The best ones they offer for race motors, series 3 for my street and strip builds with roller cam motors having under 700 Lbs. pressure over the nose They are not cheap though, i use to buy and use Smith Bros but stop doing that several years back after getting three bad sets
5/16 -18 is the thread size. Do be careful with our import buddies as they sometimes screw up (no pun intended). Any local home improvement store will have what you need. FYI 5/16 is the outer thread diameter, and the 18 refers to 18 threads per inch.
if the original bolts thread in easily you likely have been bit by "you want cheep, maybe wuhk, or gualantee to wuhk"
Follow up, used a 45 JIC fitting, and it provides the clearance needed. Been driving with no leaks, need to get motivated and build the AC lines, summer is almost here……
The 4500 to 4150 adapter is slick since it only adds 1/2 inch to the height of the manifold. The taper part of the adapter hangs down inside the plenum of the 4500 intake. Obviously the intake manifold has to be designed for this adapter. I didn't check the Brodix website for this adapter so I don't know if it is still available. I'd never seen one of these before.
Crazy this car is local to me and I pretty much know all the local cars but have never seen this car. Of course Florida is the new world and people are coming here like crazy.