ok - just didn't need to clog up the forum if not really required - thanks for the responses

So in the spirit of making things easier to maintain, over the weekend I made three strategically-placed holes in the floor to give me full access to the gas tank, including removing the sending unit to replace the fuel pump - all without having to drop the tank (and cover, and armor, and and and), and I'll make three matching bolt-on trap door panels to cover things up -



First - sending unit. There's two braces that meet up under the floor, and I cut away as much panel as I could without cutting into the braces, just to have something to start with, and lucked out because I can juuuust squeeze out the sending unit as-is :thumbsup: - and I highly recommend the sending unit ring clamp tool - like $30 on Amazon and WELL worth the $ -





Next - the OE fuel level system uses whateverthehell ohms range (still don't know for certain), so I'm using a stand-alone 8" float assembly from ISSPRO that matches my gauges, with the respective 240-33 ohms rating; drilled the hole, and I can reach inside the tank and I'll use a nice ring clamp to secure the 5 bolts from the bottom -



here's a look inside the tank - there's about...I dunno...1/4" between the bottom of the float and the bottom of the tank...so I'll have a bit 'more' after the gauge reads empty



other side -



Next - return line. My Holley Sniper EFI needs a return line, and I got this nice return line kit from EFI Systems Pro - same place I got the Sniper from - great place and great tech support -



Float and return line installed - little heat and the OE plastic return line tubing slid right over the new fitting, and used an EFI clamp to make sure it stay's put -



Next - the main vent. Wanted to be able to access the main vent and fuel full/vent tubes, so out came the deathwheel and another hole in the floor is made -

Doug...I had the same issue in 2021 w/ an Isky hydraulic roller. Was in a good friend's boat with a 440" sb chevy. The cam had been run roughly 5 summers, but not a ton of run time. I'd built it originally in 2016.
It had 3 lobes that looked like yours when I took it apart. They also said bad heat treat.

https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/denver-81-gmc-eagle-wagon/7739030735.html

Thanks! We can't figure it out. If it ain't broke, don't fix it!!

I recently transported a 68 Coronet wind tunnel model that was used for testing radiators. It was in MCG in 2023. I wonder how many are still out there?

I'm selling a really nice original air cleaner base plate for 426 Hemi. round one 300.00
69-71 Hemi oil pan and windage tray 200.00
4235 4236 Crossram carbs 1800.00
restored wide pad rocker assemblies 2600.00
Crossram intake set up, intake, 4235 4236 carbs and linkage and bolts, FHO polished lids. Very nice and complete 3400.00
lots more extra parts

Dave's Hot Rod Garage
734-231-070five please text and I'll send photos.
Thank you for the ad!

Last couple helmets for me have been Impact.

They fit tight enough and are still comfortable.

thank you.

Our first race car tow rig was an '81 with a 360/TQ, 4 SPD with 4.10's. Very solid puller, even with 120,000 miles on it. We even hauled a 9 1/2 ft camper and pulled the car. When I bought that truck I put new plug wires on it, tweaked the TQ and the timing, and ran a single 3" exhaust outlet with no muffler. Exiting at the side, it was only loud at WOT, thanks to the stock manifolds. Before we got the camper, we were heading home from the track, with a friend pulling his Firebird behind a 78 GMC with a 454 right behind us. We hit the bottom of a long grade, and my buddy figured he'd show me how a 454 pulls. I let him get abreast of my car, then I let the ol' Thermo-Bog eat. He never did get better than right alongside me. Then I actually pulled away. I know. I know. 454's were generally better pullers than 360's. But, a 360 with 4.10's, pulling 4500 lbs, could easily run with a 454 pulling similar, using 3.42's. Double those trailer weights, and that 360's out of its depth.

Green is the color of $$$$$

You absolutely nailed it!!! HOME RUN!
Putting my car back together with a lifetime of parts...I put the brace in and realized the brace was preventing my tic toc tach from going in. What was throwing me for a loop was why a standard dash would need it and a ralley doesn't. I took the brace out and now my ralley dash fits perfect.
Thanks for keeping my sanity!

apparently its not a real ad, couple people locally have tried to reach them