For Sale : 1999 Dodge Avenger 2dr Coupe. 2.5 V6 Runs. Auto Trans is shot (no reverse) 189k miles, PROJECT CAR. No title; bill of sale only. Good for parts or RACECAR body. Drag week, Super Stock body etc. Good Glass, Drivers window regulator is bad. Interior is marginal, AC present but inop. Aftermarket Aluminum wheels. This is not a fix cheap flip car. Will need to be towed. Located in SE TX. Santa Fe, Texas 77510 asking $1,100 obo or trade for Big block RB or MAX WEDGE parts Call or TXT Kenny 480-233-0688 Email: stock7709@gmail.com
---Up for sale is a 70 burnt orange console shell in better than average condition. For automatic transmission cars. Crack free. I haven't done anything to it. Didn't try to remove the carpet adhesive from each side. It's never been resprayed. There are two mounting areas on the underside that will need a minor repair. The very tip of where the screws go through are broken off. I've included a picture of the area. Should be an easy fix. $295 plus shipping.
If you decide to do the single, I'd suggest buy or fabricate a copy of the flowmaster Y collector for the crossover.
They're a tested/proven torque enhancer on that kind of a deal. I really liked it on my C body.
Nobody talks about them much, because anything other than super exotic race garbage is not cool. It's difficult enough to even stay relevant, much less be thought of as uncool
If I had room under the truck, I'd love to run a setup like these. I'd really like to run merge collectors on the headers and y-pipe on a street car to see if any benefits happen
M/T Sportsman S/T radials are made by Cooper, and I think they are a better performing white letter tire than the Cobra and the Radial T/A.. They do cost more though.
It does have the CNC 345 heads on it and the cam specs on the old build sheet are 282/290 R113. I'm not sure if that is an old Indy cam or not. Customer's carb is a Holley 80672 1050 three circuit. It was way too rich so we swapped on the dyno room 1050.
282/290 on 113 LSA sounds good to me. With at least 13.0 CR, it should make good power 840-875 Close to Indy cam specs, but not a match.
What size dia & length are the dyno headers. That will affect things too.
that is a great question, as i never weighed them. with that said, my feeble old a$$ can pick them up [each piece separately, of course ] without too much difficulty, although i can tell there is some heft there. if i were to hazard a guess, 40-45lbs for each piece maybe ? i know for sure they are way heavier than those cheap tin ramps that everybody has !
Be careful
as an update on the weight question. that made me wonder, so i made a list of material[s] used, then dug out my one steel catalog that lists the weight per foot of various structural shapes. as near as i can calculate, the ends weigh 34.5lbs each, while the ramps come in at 31.5lbs each. lighter than i expected, but probably pretty close. of course i didn't figure in the welding wire or paint.
You are relocating the hole , there is not doubt about that.
Yu also want to pay attention to your driveline angle, the torsion bar crossmember is small in the tunnel on the 70 down B body and back when another company first offered a T5 conversion that they touted as a NO HACK INSTALL they included a trans crossmember that angled the engine way down because as you well know 99.9% of Mopar guys will not modify anything on their precious car as it will take away perceived value ...
Likely the first thought that comes to mind when preparing to replace a quarter panel is not what is the easiest way to do it. It’s pretty safe to say that everyone wants the replacement to look perfect whatever it takes.
Well, as it turns out, easiest might also be the best. Muscle Car Restorations has probably replaced hundreds of quarters over its thirty-plus-year history and at this point they have got it down to a near science. Sure, every car is a bit different so the process can be tweaked as needed for each individual case but the basic process is pretty much the same for most.