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Moparts Question and Answer
04/23/24 06:24 AM
What is the cast in (Stamped) number on the other spring?
Depending on which motor was in the A body back then had a lot to do with which rear leaf springs they got, 6 cyl. and 318 cars got different ones than the 340 automatic cars got and the 340 4 speed car shad different ones(6 leafs on the passenger side on the 340 automatic cars and 7 leaf's on the driver sides on the 4 speed car, same thing on the 383 cars also. scope shruggy
6 361 Read More
Stu Harmon General Forum
04/23/24 06:15 AM
Where is this car driven? If east of the Rockies Mtns. does it have rusted floors and frames?
If so check all the grounds to make sure their really good wrench scope, most people don't know that all the current coming out of any and all batteries comes out the negative side and then flows through the circuit back o the positive lead to the battery, not vice a versa like most people think tsk
Good luck, let us know what you do and find up
19 673 Read More
Moparts Question and Answer
04/23/24 06:00 AM
Originally Posted by stumpy
Bearing caps.


OK. Now I get it. Thanks.
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Unlawfl's Race & Engine Tech
04/23/24 05:01 AM
Originally Posted by Craig J
Originally Posted by Cab_Burge
Which part # head gaskets are you using now?
Are you driving it now or not?


I was living in Racine Wisconsin and drove it every weekend if it was cool out... I probably have 500 miles on it, but if I shut it off hot the starter could not turn the engine over unless I backed the distributor off about 10 degrees...

I have a dual wide band in it and fooled around with the carb a fair bit to get a reasonable afr for idle and cruise... Unfortunately this engine will ping easier than anything I have ever driven... with a stock mopar distributor I can not get a combination of initial timing & full advance that works.

If I put in low enough initial timing so that it will start, then I have to open the throttle blades so far that it will "run on" forever when I shut it off hot. If I put in enough advance to make it idle with the throttle blades in a normal range, it won't start when it is hot...

I ordered a CB performance black box yesterday, I am hoping that I can put together a timing map that will work with this mess of mismatched parts.

Try an ignition cut off switch. Get it cranking throw the switch to fire. Switch off to kill it.
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Ebay / Craigslist / Marketplace / WIW
04/23/24 04:38 AM
High Output alt might mean trailering.

Yes, I know AC is pretty much mandatory for Summer in most of the US.
But lots of folks in cooler climates didn't order it.
My memory of cruising SoCal dealerships in the late '60s are that AC cars on the lots were in the minority.
I think it was the later '70s when I got a company car with AC - it was getting popular by then.
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Stu Harmon General Forum
04/23/24 04:04 AM
Thank you for posting them. There's some really interesting shots in there.
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Stu Harmon General Forum
04/23/24 03:32 AM
When I had my employees, there were 3 rethreading kits int he shop.
Craftsman 50.00 new
mac Tools 125.00 new
Snap off 195.00 new.

They were identical in every way except the "sticker" on the lid. Even the intructions inside the box and the pebble finish on the outside were identical>

All made is the USA by the same company whistling beer
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Moparts Question and Answer
04/23/24 03:20 AM
that is why you leave the bolt less the washer in the crank.
7 406 Read More
Moparts Question and Answer
04/23/24 03:13 AM
Originally Posted by *unknown_user*
No need to piece this together.

Tekonsha trailer wiring

I use the direct fit version of this box (plugs into the existing light harness without the sensing feature of this universal one) on my daily, works great.


Bosch brand relays are $4.99 a piece, I'm more than capable of handling this task. I'm not spending $170 on something I'll have less than $50 in and if a part of it goes bad I don't have to spend $170 to fix it.
28 1,124 Read More
Moparts Question and Answer
04/23/24 03:05 AM
bump
1 202 Read More
Moparts Question and Answer
04/23/24 02:58 AM
Originally Posted by Cab_Burge
[spoiler][/spoiler]Sounds like it might be the distributor trying to add timing at cruise RPM scope work twocents
I try to recurve all my distributors to get all the mechanical advance in by 1600 to 2000 RPM max up shruggy
Have you tried tuning the outboard carb idle fuel ratio with the idle fuel adjuster screws in the base plates? If not try gently closing them until fully seated and then back out from 1/3 to 1/2 turn out from fully, seated depending on what altitude you're at wrench up twocents
Six packs rule when they are tuned properly tuned wrench: scopeup


iagree
9 400 Read More
Moparts Restoration & A12 Forum
04/23/24 02:39 AM
Originally Posted by 71birdJ68
I have a yellow 69 B body that was not blacked out.


That would have been a big error from the factory. Error's happen.

If someone does not have original paint on the radiator support, then they are left to go put blackout on those colors that were suppose to get them.

IMHO, even if it's a full custom car, blackout looks better. It's just a poor visual to see a color behind a grille. Same for wheel wells.
4 311 Read More
Stu Harmon General Forum
04/23/24 01:18 AM
So what next? A Vanishing Point Challenger into a plow?
Money/Time into what? 5 second video.
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Unlawfl's Race & Engine Tech
04/23/24 01:09 AM
Those rings are what is referred to as "drop in rings", fitting them is not required. However, they should be checked. Also, on file fit rings, the spec that is given is the MINIMUM amount of gap required, with more gap being "acceptable", to a point. A while back I was building a basically stock 390 ford and the drop in rings measured about .048". I called the ring mfg and was told that up to .055" would be ok.

Brian
4 344 Read More
Unlawfl's Race & Engine Tech
04/23/24 12:55 AM
The 23" blocks are Plymouth 218 & Dodge 230". Approximate bore pitch cylinders #1-2, 3-4, & 5-6 are 3.5625” apart, cylinders #2-3 & 4-5 are 3.875” apart
The 25" blocks are 237, 251 & 265" for Chrysler, DeSoto, Dodge truck. Approximate bore pitch cylinders #1-2, 3-4, & 5-6 are 3.750” apart, cylinders #2-3 & 4-5 are 4.500” apart

These engines respond to mods similar to H-D flathead engines
2 183 Read More
Unlawfl's Race & Engine Tech
04/23/24 12:55 AM
Originally Posted by dvw
We failed the sprag on Dizusters car with LBA. But for sure it helps. I dont run LBA because the 1/2 shift isn't quite as quick. And not using a trans brake it lives pretty well. If I remeber correctly some trans brake valve bodies have a timed release of the low band. best of both worlds.
Doug


I’ve never noticed any difference in the 1-2 shift between A&A nonLBA and the A&A LBA. I only ever noticed a difference with quickness of the 1-2 shift when going from the turbo action valve body to theA&A both non LBA and LBA. How did you manage to kill a sprag with a LBA? That’s impressive lol.
47 3,507 Read More
Stu Harmon General Forum
04/22/24 11:35 PM
I don't think bedliner is an inexpensive proposition! Look at what the coverage is and do your own comparison. A number of years ago I saw a shop that had been done with it. It was quite a rough surface - glossy but rough. I my opinion I want smooth for easy cleanup.

I have done four of my own shops with the DIY epoxy kits. My only complaint is the tire marks. They call it "hot tire" but it seems ANY rubber wheels - hot or not - will leave marks.

When I built my current shop 22 years ago I just used a commercial grade concrete sealer - applied within a day of the fresh concrete. It's not cosmetically appealing but I've never had a dust issue. Its easy to clean but does get tire marks and lacquer thinner disolves it. But its lasted 22 years !!
6 298 Read More
Moparts B Body
04/22/24 11:19 PM
FOR SALE ash tray light NOS Mopar part never used New 2864 193. Price $45.00 shipping included in rice Bob Horman
59 6,528 Read More
Ebay / Craigslist / Marketplace / WIW
04/22/24 11:18 PM
Id not make the trip if it were free. Not a fan of mixed parts such as that.

I do wonder about cars like that about blocks and such. In the 80-s tons of hemis and 440-6s made there way into older junk and street rods. More hemi-s at the rod shows then car shows back then.
1 255 Read More
Stu Harmon General Forum
04/22/24 10:50 PM
Thank you for the replies.

Still not resolved but here is where we stand.

I told her we have an estimate from the shop that will be doing the repairs. She asked who and said she would talk to them. Insurance company called back and said the shop I chose will not deal with their insurance company. I could have told her that, the guy went down a list of insurance companies he will no longer deal with. Hasn't hurt his business because his work is top notch and pretty affordable.

Anyway.

I had a tablet that I never opened so I opened it and loaded it up. Installed their app.

Some of the information it wanted seemed very invasive. I get it that they basically are trying to prevent somebody from taking pictures of a wrecked junkyard car and pass it off.

Then the app wouldn't let me take pictures. It said it couldn't get a GPS signal. Odd because the other apps could on it could but at that point I was done with it.

Wife called the help number on the app and told her it wouldn't work. They suggested a phone app and wife said NO. Too invasive and not going to happen on her phone.

Help lady said she gets that a lot and she will note it.

Adjuster messaged my wife about it and said she would talk to a supervisor about using email to get pictures. Still waiting.
26 1,591 Read More
Moparts Question and Answer
04/22/24 10:11 PM
Originally Posted by Remy-Z


Edit: What's the likelihood that E-body and late-B body links would interchange? Seems like most everything else "black metal" does.


E body is no dice. They use the traditional type where the sway bar is mounted to the frame and the ends connect with the link.

The 73 and up B bodies have links like yours where the end of the bar mounts to the frame and the bar itself is supported by the links.

Finding usable ones like yours are hard sometimes.

Maybe you can get somebody to weld a bolt to that one to save it?
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Moparts Question and Answer
04/22/24 09:55 PM
Originally Posted by JohnRR
Originally Posted by toast253
Ahh, gotcha now, thank you


Well , what is stamped on it , that is the pertinent information?

Picture says you have a 68 model year Hemi 4 speed for a B body.



That being a 68 makes me think somebody has been inside it. That side cover looks like the 70 T/A & 71 up interlock side cover.

If you are going to use it I would suggest you do a little deep dive in it and see if it has been done right or patched.
10 680 Read More
Stu Harmon General Forum
04/22/24 08:13 PM
Hey all, anybody been in touch with Todd Marsh? I haven't heard from him, and his message box is full..... Just doing a welfare check on ole Sasquatch! Lol
Thanks
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Moparts Restoration & A12 Forum
04/22/24 08:05 PM
Originally Posted by buzz440
Try,, turnswitch. com or S/M electrotech forget which they go by but they did mine awhile back.... works like a charm.

Later, BUZZ


He also wants the radio cosmetically restored. Not just the function.

I don't know of any company that will correctly cosmetically restore your vintage radio.

It's just about impossible. How would you correctly replate the metal casing with all of the internals attached?
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Moparts Wheels / Tires
04/22/24 07:35 PM
NOS BF Goodrich F 78-14 Space Saver spare tire, never mounted, excellent condition, $995

Email Kenei@comcast.net
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