I have a set of you need some pictures.

i have made caps for wheels and wheel centers, such as on rallye wheels, several times from aluminum round stock.
depending on the application, they have been retained with o-rings, or V or round shaped retainers that bolt to the back side of the centers [for wheels] or epoxied into the rallye wheel type center.
i realize not everyone has access to a lathe or has a buddy with one, but just throwing this out there as an alternative.
i just made some centers to replace the loose plastic caps that were on a set of chrome plated "centers" that has holes for the [chrome] lug nuts to pass through, and adapted them to some slotted factory wheels that came on my junked 95 caravan.
i'm thinking these centers came on a late model [89-90 ?] dodge magnum. they were retained to the original wheel with three 1/4-20 self tapping bolts, even though the center has five lugs evenly spaced between the lug nut holes.
to mark where these retainer bolts would be drilled on the caravan wheels, i installed three pointed set screws into the center, put a dab of white paint on the points of the screws after i installed the set screws backwards [with the allen key hex into the centers], then carefully lined up the lugnut holes on the wheels and allowed the centers to just touch the wheels, allowing the paint on the screw tips to mark the caravan wheels when the centers were lowered to the wheels. lifted the centers and drilled the holes to 5/16" to allow for some slight adjustment of the lug nut holes.
the description of this procedure is not as difficult as it sounds, and is easier to do than one thinks. rallye wheel centers [early and late style] can be added to factory plain steel wheels the same way.
as the chrome on these centers was bad as well as the center caps missing, they were blasted, primed, and painted after the aluminum replacement center caps were epoxied into place.
as my caravan has the medium gray plastic [wide] side body moldings and bumper covers, i sprayed the wheels a tractor paint gray [massey-ferguson ?] and the centers a darker gray.
i then installed thin stainless trim rings [think 40-50's cars of most makes had these rings] and with the chrome nuts [which are the real deal and not those with the tin caps] makes for a very different look for a caravan wheel.
i also have "big and little" tires installed to make the "bus" look like a "racer".

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Then imagine how dumb we are. Leaving for St Louis on Monday, 3500 mile round trip. Even IF we won it might barely cover the cost of fuel, and food. Then there is hotels, fuel for the car, wear and tear, tires etc etc. We were runner up in St Louis last year left with enoug to cover part of the fuel bill...

Hard to watch with it being so much political opinion and not much more. He also thinks we never went to the moon.

I took a guess since you didn’t say.

I have a couple left over rolls Silicone Bronze wire for my MIG.
Anyone use it for for auto sheet metal work? I heard that fillers don't adhere well.
I like to use it for lower temps and easier to grind.

I have this....

Scott Smith
Personal Restoration Parts

9807 E. Broadway Ave. Spokane Valley, WA 99206
509-922-9115 – Scott@Harmsauto.com

I tried to find the ignition wire from the starter to the firewall. Yeah, that's going to be a PITA to follow as it's in some wrapped bundle of wires. I am thinking it's on the + side as well since the jumper wire from the fuse box to the starter works every time. I almost considered taking the jumper wire from the fuse box and taking the end going to the starter and putting that on the NSS and leaving the ignition from the column on the NSS as well. Basically using the wire that works and disconnecting the NSS to solenoid factory wire. The only thing that concerns me on that is the connector on the NSS is two wire connectors side by side in a plastic end that slips onto the two tabs (1 connector with two wires in it, trying to explain it easier). Unlike the reverse that is two wires with two separate connectors. I could find a connector that will go on the NSS and snip the factory wires and do it that way, but not a fan of that. What are your opinions on that? I think it would tell me for sure if the NSS to solenoid factory wire is bad.

Yes , the one pictured above is definitely a 489 , they are the only one with the large cast 9

A guy named Mike Coffey on FB has an ad .

I did this with Icon pistons and a 6.125" rod length. The pin bosses did interfere with the counterweights. J.Rob

Kevin at IJ crank scrapers has a fix for the cracked screen, He was gracious enough to text back and forth on Sunday afternoon. Later sending me a conformation # and shipping the supplies at N/C. Great service. Ordered one pair of lifters from Isky as I wasn't sure I could send mine back for repair and get them by next weekend. Cleaned up the cam and installed it in a spare 440 block. Modified the degree wheel to bolt to the cam. Set up the dial indicator and mapped the cam out to make sure it was what the numbers on the cam said were correct. A little mind game figuring out the cam with no crank installed for TDC. Along with the fact that all the numbers were reduced by 2. I started by finding the int C/L and working backwards. It all looks good. The int lobe base circle is .030" smaller, exhaust .015" smaller. At the last build every spring was checked for coil bind. For some reason the springs with the greatest coil bind height are all on the intakes. So I'll move them around at the .024 extra lift gets it a little close. Tetsing next wednesday. Racing next weekend.
Doug