I could have picked up a '68 AMX 390 4 speed car a dozen or so years ago for not a lot of money. Rust free Arizona car. I let it slip away. Stupid. Stupid. Stupid.

Didn’t see it, I must of already left

No Clue but it likely won't be cheap. might watch C/L and FBM. Anoother thought would be to check with local suppliers and you might be able to get a used one when a shop is buying a new one

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Specializing in the resto / repair for classic cars for ~25 years I have lost hundreds if not thousands of hours fighting the issue across all makes and models. The compensator made by Tanks sometimes will resolve the issue IF your close (within 1/4 tank). Several years back Spectre said they were going to resolve the issue but gave up. Myself I don't understand why it is so difficult. They will OHM out correctly on the bench, and in and empty tank flipping it upside down for full. In the car with fuel, usually have to settle for being off at full or empty. I have chosen to read 3/4 when full and empty when a gallon or two is still in the tank.
I'm beginning to think it may have something to do with the buoyancy of the float, possibly coupled with today's fuels or weight of the arm

Looking at installing a Mercedes fan in my '68 Newport. I have a 90 amp Powermaster Alternator, and 2, 10-gauge charge keads running from the alternator to the starter relay. The ammeter bypass has long since been done, even my headlights have their own harness and relays. My question is then, with only 100 amp high beam headlights and the Mercedes fan as my only high amp draw accesories, will a 90 amp alternator keep up?

Clean used Edelbrocks and Carters Competition Series AFBs can be found pretty easily for cheap, and the average dude can set them up to make them work really good for almost anything less than an all out drag car. I see local people selling like new carburetors of all makes because they got flustered when it didn't work right so they cave and buy an EFI setup meaning someone else gets a good deal on a low mile carburetor that just needs some attention.

Set the float drops in both directions (important), and then put the jetting back to stock if it has been altered and adjust from there. Most gripes from these carburetors come from dirt getting in them, stalling when turning or hard stopping (all float setting related), and heat soak. Run a filter in front of and after the fuel pump. Set the float drop measurements to perfect even if it takes some time, and the heat soak thing you have to run a good base insulator gasket, and possibly look at your fuel line routing and maybe some rubber insulation over the metal line at worst. I've never had to do that on any of mine, but some have had to. It's ok you just do what is needed for your situation.

The best thing about a new carburetor is you get a warranty if needed, and the fact that nobody has monkeyed with it. The bad thing is none of them come really ready to use right out of the box, and it's worth reading the instructions and checking things over first. They are build by people in a hurry so things may be off enough to warrant fixing/adjusting before use. I'm familiar with the AFB type carbs enough to know that the floats on those need to be verified as they are often wrong. Not a deal breaker you just know it needs checked before you use them.

I get mine shipped right from Speedmaster79. Gonna finish a set this weekend and start porting another set by Monday. 2.055 valve so they will flow 308-315cfm when finished.

So, no recommendation that fits with the O.P.'s needs, but plenty of attempts at insults.

Typical.

what year car?

WIW NOS E body 2895592 (W758) Clear windshield? Have not seen one to compare. Thanks in advance. Joe

Maybe contact Stephen's performance or someone similar who deals in such parts ??