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72demon416
mopar addict


Reged: Jun 03 2004
Loc: Sask, Can.
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: RoboGeek]
      #5548233 - Thu Oct 15 2009 09:29 PM

Fair enough...to each his own.

--------------------
72 Dodge Demon sporting W5 439 power


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THEYOUNGGUN53
enthusiast


Reged: Feb 23 2009
Loc: middleOnowhere CA
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: 72demon416]
      #5548258 - Thu Oct 15 2009 09:47 PM

thanks for being cool about it

--------------------
a car is never "done"


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RoboGeek
member


Reged: Sep 16 2009
Loc: Cornfields of Illinois
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: THEYOUNGGUN53]
      #5548912 - Fri Oct 16 2009 09:46 AM

you gotta admit.. they DO look good when done right!

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Gusteve
I Love the Unicorn Song!!


Reged: Mar 21 2007
Loc: Flint, MI
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: RoboGeek]
      #5548973 - Fri Oct 16 2009 10:18 AM Attachment (238 downloads)

Just for the heck of it:

Before:

--------------------


"It's not easy being sleazy!"


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Gusteve
I Love the Unicorn Song!!


Reged: Mar 21 2007
Loc: Flint, MI
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: Gusteve]
      #5548974 - Fri Oct 16 2009 10:20 AM Attachment (262 downloads)

After

--------------------


"It's not easy being sleazy!"


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Anonymous
Unregistered



Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: RoboGeek]
      #5549120 - Fri Oct 16 2009 11:52 AM

Quote:

polishing definitely brings out the shine - unless you try to do it when the paint is still curing. Then it just gets more dull the more you do.

this was waiting a couple months for wet sanding/rubbing out and final polish - but before wax




ok maybe I'll just wait till next spring. Then I wet sand with a high grit (2000?) then use polishing compound and a buffer?


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supraghost
member


Reged: Oct 13 2009
Loc: PA
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ]
      #5549436 - Fri Oct 16 2009 03:03 PM

Quote:

Quote:

polishing definitely brings out the shine - unless you try to do it when the paint is still curing. Then it just gets more dull the more you do.

this was waiting a couple months for wet sanding/rubbing out and final polish - but before wax




ok maybe I'll just wait till next spring. Then I wet sand with a high grit (2000?) then use polishing compound and a buffer?





im not waiting until next spring. im ordering some mcquires rubbing compound and tech wax 2.0 and ill try it in a few weeks.


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Anonymous
Unregistered



Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: supraghost]
      #5549850 - Fri Oct 16 2009 06:18 PM

It'll be pretty cold out then, that won't affect anything?

Also... the highest grit sandpaper I could find anywhere was 1500 at partsource. can I buy the higher grit stuff here or order in? or will 1500 do for this final step?

thanks I'm looking forward to finishing up and hopefully getting the nice shine like I see in those pics!


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v8mirage
member


Reged: Sep 08 2006
Loc: MD, USA
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ]
      #5550029 - Fri Oct 16 2009 07:36 PM Attachment (231 downloads)

Before

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v8mirage
member


Reged: Sep 08 2006
Loc: MD, USA
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: v8mirage]
      #5550032 - Fri Oct 16 2009 07:37 PM Attachment (261 downloads)

Now

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Anonymous
Unregistered



Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: v8mirage]
      #5550891 - Sat Oct 17 2009 10:51 AM

Question, Anybody with experience doing a rusto base and a brightside top coat? I am about to do black and I am wondering if there is any benefit to slapping 5-6 coats of brightside (more expensive) as opposed to 4 rusto coats then 2 brightside. Wouldn't this be the smarter move? Adhesion issues? It seems more economical and I can't see much benefit in going all brightside. Input appreciated.

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Marq
mopar addict


Reged: May 28 2006
Loc: Canada
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ]
      #5552148 - Sun Oct 18 2009 06:48 AM Attachment (91 downloads)

Quote:

Question, Anybody with experience doing a rusto base and a brightside top coat? I am about to do black and I am wondering if there is any benefit to slapping 5-6 coats of brightside (more expensive) as opposed to 4 rusto coats then 2 brightside. Wouldn't this be the smarter move? Adhesion issues? It seems more economical and I can't see much benefit in going all brightside. Input appreciated.





Yes... you can start with Rustoleum/Tremclad and then finish it with coats of Brightside. That is how I did my McLaren Mustang


Edited by Marq (Sun Oct 18 2009 06:54 AM)


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Anonymous
Unregistered



Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: Marq]
      #5552196 - Sun Oct 18 2009 07:32 AM

Thanks for the response Marq. I figured it was doable just wanted to make sure if I cheap out and only buy one quart of brightside, it will be enough for full coverage and shine after final wet sanding and such. Anything I miss out on by not going all brightside coats? Durability? Also, since I am going so few brightside coats, final coat should be full strength for sure or can I still get away with a little thinning?

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1971ford
member


Reged: Apr 17 2009
Loc: California
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ]
      #5553631 - Sun Oct 18 2009 09:01 PM

i guess i will update you guys again since the truck is half way back together.
Ill update another time once the truck is all together, and again when the paint is buffed.
As it sits now

notice how everything is very straight except the bed. I am going to completely re-do the body work on the bed in a few months.



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RoboGeek
member


Reged: Sep 16 2009
Loc: Cornfields of Illinois
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: v8mirage]
      #5555071 - Mon Oct 19 2009 05:10 PM

mmmMMMMMMmmmm.. monza!! Hope ya got a V8 for it!

My Cavy was originally going to be a V8/RWD conversion because its so hard to find a clean Vega...


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THEYOUNGGUN53
enthusiast


Reged: Feb 23 2009
Loc: middleOnowhere CA
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: RoboGeek]
      #5555984 - Mon Oct 19 2009 11:57 PM

WOW, thats great to see the truck in sunlight!!

--------------------
a car is never "done"


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Peckinpah
member


Reged: Aug 06 2009
Loc: CA
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: THEYOUNGGUN53]
      #5556240 - Tue Oct 20 2009 07:45 AM

Rustoleum Gloss White in bright sunlight is almost blinding. I was looking at my paint job recently and comparing it to other cars in a parking lot, and it appears that other people's white paint jobs are either old and faded, or car manufacturers use more muted tones of white on their factory paint jobs.

Also, after driving in the rain a couple of times, I'm kind of annoyed at how every single speck of dirt shows up. I think I spend twice as much time washing my truck with the new white paint job as I used to. And with no clearcoat, the road grime seems much harder to remove.


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RoboGeek
member


Reged: Sep 16 2009
Loc: Cornfields of Illinois
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: Peckinpah]
      #5557136 - Tue Oct 20 2009 05:38 PM

there are paint sealers you can use. Clearcoats pick up just garbage, but you don't see it as easy.

Once again I use meguires for the sealer. Their detailing stuff is hard to beat. Try the detailing clay for the yukky stuff

Edited by RoboGeek (Tue Oct 20 2009 05:39 PM)


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v8mirage
member


Reged: Sep 08 2006
Loc: MD, USA
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: RoboGeek]
      #5557294 - Tue Oct 20 2009 06:45 PM

Yes sir! It is a V8! I do love how the Rustoleum Bright White looks. Its identical to the GM Frost white, which is a color I love. The best thing about that white is how it makes everything else pop, like the parking lights and tail-lights or anything else you put on it.

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Anonymous
Unregistered



Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: v8mirage]
      #5557549 - Tue Oct 20 2009 08:35 PM

hey guys I've spent copious hours reading this thread then gave up on page 30 or so. and just had a few questions.
sadly i don't own any American muscle all I could afford is a Honda. and its paint job was decent but a wreck made quick work of that so now im wondering would this method of painting work well if I rolled everything but the front bumper? which I could roll but was looking to save some time on it because of it's shape.
i do say that i am sold on this method. but another question will the enamel stick well to the plastic bumper covers front and back or is some plastic primer required or should i chose a more flexible paint.
...oh one last thought which is a better white? gloss white or canvas white? in the RustOleum line of colours. i love my car but i cant afford a real paint job (full time student)but i do think i could take a week or two get a paint job done if i borrowed a car.
so thanks in advance for the help it's greatly appreciated.


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v8mirage
member


Reged: Sep 08 2006
Loc: MD, USA
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ]
      #5557895 - Wed Oct 21 2009 05:41 AM

I say with the Rustoleum paints that the flexibility is not an issue. I was asked the same question on another board, so I took my plastic paint tray, that I use to paint, and turned it inside-out. None of the paint cracked pealed or chipped. I have the flexible rubber front and rear bumpers too and have had absolutely no trouble with them from flexing during assembly. I would think that the Brightside paint may be just as good as it it made to go on fiberglass boats, with do flex as well, but I don't have any experience with it.

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Anonymous
Unregistered



Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: v8mirage]
      #5558084 - Wed Oct 21 2009 08:38 AM

Thats good. well i think i'm going to start buying supplies. and i', going to spend the extra money and make a make shift paint booth out of LOTS of home depot sheet plastic to prevent dust. and i have and orbital buffer will that work as a sander too if i get some sanding pads? or should i go with blocks. the car is small but not small enough that i would want to do the whole car by hand.

and i've decided on the gloss white


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Peckinpah
member


Reged: Aug 06 2009
Loc: CA
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ]
      #5558201 - Wed Oct 21 2009 09:57 AM

Re the plastic bumper, I think there was another guy who had some adhesion problems on his plastic bumper, but IIRC, this was because he did nothing to prepare the surface prior to painting (i.e., no sanding).

I can see how a smooth surface like that, especially one that shrinks and expands depending on temperatures, might cause problems if not prepped. So I would be sure to rough up the surface with some fine grit paper (maybe 400-600) to give the paint something to adhere to.

Re blocks, I didn't use any, but now wish I had. I had to do a ton of wet sanding and my fingers were literally bleeding at one point. But I have not of anyone using an orbital sander for sanding, most people tend to think it would be too powerful, but i have not tried using one myself.

Also, I burned through the paint in a lot of spots and suspect a block might help prevent that, at least on flat areas. Be sure to watch out for edges when you're sanding, it's really easy to over sand, so I would err on the side of sanding places like that too little rather than risking burning through.

Finally, watch out for drips. I let far too many of them slide on early coats, thinking I could sand them down, but it's almost impossible to sand them perfectly flat. Fortunately, since I used gloss white (probably the most forgiving color) they're not too noticeable as long as the paint has a good shine. The reflections really do a good job of keeping the eye from seeing them.

I think a week to 10 days should be enough down time to get all your coats down and then reassemble the car. The final wet sanding and all that can be done days or weeks after you finish laying down you last coat, and the car can be driven while it's drying. Good luck and post some pics when you're done.


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Soopernaut
pro stock


Reged: Dec 13 2007
Loc: Des Moines IA
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: 1971ford]
      #5558359 - Wed Oct 21 2009 11:20 AM

Quote:

i guess i will update you guys again since the truck is half way back together.
Ill update another time once the truck is all together, and again when the paint is buffed.
As it sits now

notice how everything is very straight except the bed. I am going to completely re-do the body work on the bed in a few months.






I've seen a few 2 tone paint schemes in this thread over the years but I'm still curious when another one is posted how the poster did this.

1971Ford, did you paint one color for several layers with a taped line and then move the tape and switch to the other color? I would think tape would be required to get a decent line. Obviously you are putting trim over the area where the colors meet so the line quality doesn't have to be great.

Do you wetsand both colors at the same time?

Do you mask off the lower portion when painting the top or was the top completed before the bottom was even started?

I guess an explaination of what you did would be better than me asking a million separate questions.

--------------------
1970 Dodge d100/eventually going on a 77 D100 frame


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Anonymous
Unregistered



Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: Soopernaut]
      #5558587 - Wed Oct 21 2009 01:29 PM

hey thanks for all the answers you guys have provided i should be starting soon and i for sure will post up some picturs of how it went along the way and if like the final results. basically i've conlcuded it's all going to come down to how much prep i do and if i put the effort and time into it to make it look good. so i'll keep ya all posted.

one more question i have a 8" orbital buffer that i was going to use to wax the car could i put some sanding pads on it and would that work for my wet sanding and some of the prep work?????????

h a i love the avatar selection the forum has !!


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Anonymous
Unregistered



Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ]
      #5558602 - Wed Oct 21 2009 01:38 PM

oh also maybe so this gets answered if some one could pm their answer. i was reading above and saw that you can do RustOleum / Tremclad under coats then finish up with interlux bright side..

so my question is brightside > RustOleum ????

and will i like the Rustoleum White over the Brightside White? has any one seen these two?


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Peckinpah
member


Reged: Aug 06 2009
Loc: CA
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ]
      #5558609 - Wed Oct 21 2009 01:41 PM

I have heard of people using vibrating sanders for prep work, but I would think an orbital sander would spin too fast even for prep work, and you might end up damaging stuff you didn't want to sand. Might be OK for large flat areas like the roof. Try it out and see how it goes.

However if you used an orbital sander for wet sanding you'd get swirls like crazy, I would think. My .02 cents FWIW.


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Anonymous
Unregistered



Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: Peckinpah]
      #5558768 - Wed Oct 21 2009 03:32 PM

ok sounds good. cause i have a vibrating sander and the orbital it's pretty big so maybe it's good for the roof or hood. and i always have my hands.

but whats every ones opinion on what paint to use
should i go few coats rusto then top coats brightside? what the advantage or should i just do all rusto?


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Anonymous
Unregistered



Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ]
      #5558792 - Wed Oct 21 2009 03:46 PM

Quote:

...

but whats every ones opinion on what paint to use
should i go few coats rusto then top coats brightside? what the advantage or should i just do all rusto?




General experience is that Brightside has more shine to it, and some have been able to lay down final coat of Brightside and stop there (no final buffing to get appropriate shine). Of course, Brightside can be final buffed / polished for better shine and finish if desired.

For Rustoleum, the general experience has been that final appearance almost always requires final buffing / polishing.

There is also some thought that Brightside may be harder and provide a more durable finish than Rustoleum. This could mean less ongoing maintenance (buffing and waxing) of Brightside. Brightside is intended to be UV resistant on its own, whereas Rustoleum requires waxing for best durability.

The idea of Rustoleum first, then final coat or coats with Brightside is simply because Rustoleum is so much less expensive. All of the properties outlined as Brightside advantages above should be gained with Brightside just as the final coat(s) -- assuming, of course, that the earlier coats of Rustoleum are fully cured before laying down the Brightside.


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Anonymous
Unregistered



Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ]
      #5559477 - Wed Oct 21 2009 08:58 PM

oh ok that sounds good then but one of the main reasons i liked the idea of rustoleum was they had a spray can wich i was hoping to use on the front bumper wich would be time consuming to roll on.
but i guess i could spray the rist coats and then roll on the bright side. ok thats good to know. but since the bright side is harder will i have a problem with it being on the plastic front and back bumper covers?


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Anonymous
Unregistered



Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ]
      #5559528 - Wed Oct 21 2009 09:24 PM

sorry even after lots of reading i still have tons of questions. but i guess i dont need to know every thing, but i do need to know exactly wich line of bright side paint to choose there were like 10
i'm assuming i want Interlux Topside Paint or do i want bottom side? and there were like 3 types of bottom side or 5 but i dont know what any thing is.

sorry im sooooo impatient i'm stoked to give this a try


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Anonymous
Unregistered



Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ]
      #5560478 - Thu Oct 22 2009 12:26 PM

Quote:

... but i do need to know exactly which line of bright side paint to choose there were like 10
i'm assuming i want Interlux Topside Paint or do i want bottom side? and there were like 3 types of bottom side or 5 but i dont know what any thing is...






You want Brightside, which is a topside paint. Interlux is the manufacturer and Brightside is the paint line.

Interlux makes two other topside paints, but you don't want those : Toplac and Perfection.

Toplac is not as high gloss as Brightside and is available is available if far fewer colors than Brightside.

Perfection is a 2 part paint (meaning it is mixed with a hardener). Again, it is available in far fewer colors than Brightside. The 2 part nature means that it will cure faster (and maybe be harder in the end), but people painting boats with it have said it is much harder to work with than Brightside.

You do not want any bottom side paints. These are meant to be below the waterline of a boat. The final finish of these paints does not need to be high gloss and they do not need to be as UV resistant as the topside paints which are meant to cover all exposed surfaces above the water.


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Anonymous
Unregistered



Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ]
      #5560514 - Thu Oct 22 2009 12:43 PM

k thats good to know thanks very much. so i got paid today so i will be going to home depot and cleaning out the garage this week end so there is room for my car. i guess my list is...
sanding blocks
sand paper (400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000)
Cause i have some body work to do
rustoleum professional white, also a can or to of spray incase i get lazy
mineral spirits(unless there is something better)

and i'll check to see if they have bondo i think i'll have to check an auto supply store for the bondo and i'll be getting a sealer too.

and whats a good website for the brightside paint?
oh i'll be picking u pa bottle of meguires as well

i'm super syked and i think i'll do a pretty decent job.

i'm pretty sure i know what to do. and i'm going to practice the process on our beater first, but if there is anthing i forgot let me know


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Anonymous
Unregistered



Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ]
      #5560633 - Thu Oct 22 2009 02:02 PM

One more thing, the official name is Brightside Polyurethane. That's the one you want.

I think they have another paint which is called Brightside traditional enamel.

Don't know the best place on the web to purchase. Just do a Google search for Interlux Brightside and compare prices. There are even some people on eBay who sell it from time to time. Some places on the web only have limited colors.

If you happen to live near a body of water, find a local boat supply house (like West Marine). They will probably have it on the shelves. If they do, they will probably also have a paint chip card so you see what the colors really look like. They will likely also have smaller cans so you can purchase just to try it out -- then buy more in bigger quantities on-line once you decide exactly what you want.


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RoboGeek
member


Reged: Sep 16 2009
Loc: Cornfields of Illinois
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ]
      #5561065 - Thu Oct 22 2009 05:56 PM

DON'T use bondo for rust repair, unless you like doing it every few months. Body filler should be used only for a very thin finish layer

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Anonymous
Unregistered



Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: RoboGeek]
      #5561129 - Thu Oct 22 2009 06:26 PM

k well i dont have my camera right now but i do have a corner with a 3/4" by 3" spot where i can rust and i want to grind it down and put a nuetralizer down then odds are i will have some sort of indentation so what do i put there? i'm assuming some sort of body filler i dont expect the missing metal to be deep i just dont know any products and i have a very small door ding that is big enough to notice could i fill that?

ha ok i'll look around cause i live right by the great salt lake and they had to paint all those sail boats some how so i guess it's worth looking around and there are reservoirs every where.

so yah help me under stand the body work i need to do.


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Anonymous
Unregistered



Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: RoboGeek]
      #5563871 - Sat Oct 24 2009 06:50 AM

For very small areas, I used fiberglass cloth covered with jb weld. Sands pretty easily,
hardens well, and is better than bondo. A thin coat of body glaze over the top, feathered, and primered and...bada bing, nada ding...or rust!


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joeshmo
member


Reged: Sep 07 2009
Loc: NY
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: ]
      #5564408 - Sat Oct 24 2009 01:12 PM

Hey guys, I've got a baron convertible. Great car,crappy paint job. I had a few adventures in rustoleum land and totally botched the results so I'm starting over after a good sanding and cleaning. One change I'm making this time is removing more of the trim. Has anyone had experience with this disgusting 16 year old rubber trim adhesive? I can usually pry off the piece by cutting the adhesive with a razor. Then I am left with a sticky rubbery material on the metal. I can usually get most of it gone with a heat gun and a razor blade. Would laquer thinner work here? Same goes for my pinstripes, I can still see adhesive there even after I scraped them off and rubbed down rigorously with lacquer thinner. Is there something I'm missing? Thanks!

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tt455
member


Reged: Nov 14 2007
Loc: New York
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: joeshmo]
      #5564710 - Sat Oct 24 2009 04:20 PM

Well after practicing on a trunk lid which I posted here last Summer,I found the opportunity to try this method on a car.My Son will be driving soon,and I had this low milage 87 LeSabre that my Brother let sit for a couple of years. I fixed it up and got it road worthy,but as in most late 80's early 90's cars the car had peeling on the roof,trunk,and hood.The sides where good,so I decided since I'll never match the Charcoal gray,I'll two tone it with Black.

Using the Rustoleum method I finished her up yesterday,which took a couple of weeks because of weather and work. It came out very good,but as I had read in earlier posts I encountered some hazing in spots. Now,I read posts that said the reason for this is there's no hardner in the paint,let the paint cure before buffing,and use better polishing compounds along with PC 7424.

What I don't understand,is why my roof came out almost flawless while my hood and trunk have the dreaded hazing.Like others,looks good from 5ft, but as you close in the cloudiness appears.I used Turtle wax polisher and a Craftmens rotary polisher,but put the terry bonnet over a foam one to prevent me from burning through.

Did I miss a post about conclusions on hazing?
Should I wait a couple of weeks and polish again?
Here are some pics,thanks for reading.







HERE IS THE HAZING ON THE TRUNK AND HOOD.





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RoboGeek
member


Reged: Sep 16 2009
Loc: Cornfields of Illinois
Re: New Paint job on a budget thread Part III [Re: tt455]
      #5564762 - Sat Oct 24 2009 04:50 PM

My first rubbing out hazed like that. I thought I left compound on the car...

I went on vacation and redid it 5 weeks later or so - it came out perfect.

I'm not sure what the haze is, but I have seen it.

After I did the final polish it never came back. I can only assume some volatiles were trapped and worked their way out - probably where the paint was thicker


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