69DartGT
moparts member
Reged: Jan 20 2003
Loc: Southern, Ca.
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original thread is now in the tech archives click the link: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...425#Post3492965
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It's For Sale
Edited by 69DartGT (Fri May 11 2007 10:53 PM)
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69DartGT
moparts member
Reged: Jan 20 2003
Loc: Southern, Ca.
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Hard to believe nobody has posted progress pictures here yet
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It's For Sale
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2.3turbo
member
Reged: May 02 2007
Loc: Iowa
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Here at the shop I think we have decided (as we get bored easy and like to try new things)to paint half of my drag car with this method, and shoot the other half with a dupont mix and see if anyone can tell the difference, and see how each holds up. It will be a bit, we are scheduled out about 4 weeks right now.
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Kudakidd
Kuda's Gone, the Kidd Remains
Reged: Jan 20 2003
Loc: Witness Protection Program
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I found that a roller doesn't reach many hard to get places, so I used a toothbrush.
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idrivevintage
mopar addict
Reged: Aug 03 2006
Loc: My Garage / Museum
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"Keep the new stuff, I'll stick with my 40 year old Dodges"(unless its a LS1 powered f-body)
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Challenger 1
upgrade my license
Reged: Feb 05 2005
Loc: Cincinnati Ohio
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Quote:
I found that a roller doesn't reach many hard to get places, so I used a toothbrush.
What great idea!!
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Gas_Bandit
master
Reged: Jan 19 2003
Loc: near Alexandria, VA
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Then use a Q tip for the really tight spots
-------------------- 2003 Mercury Marauder, 34k miles, 3.73s and custom flash tuned
1981 Camaro, 350 w/ Holley Stealth Ram MPEFI, Sportsman heads, roller cam, self-burned chips, wideband O2
1983 Firebird TA
1993 Saturn SL2 83k
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R70RUNNER
Leg Lamp Lover
Reged: Aug 09 2005
Loc: Riverside, Ca
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69dartGT
Think the truck turned out great! You need to post a before and after pic in your first post
-------------------- Moparts! Just like Myspace but WITHOUT the teen girls!
R70RUNNER<---VP Inland Empire Chapter of the MPM
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69DartGT
moparts member
Reged: Jan 20 2003
Loc: Southern, Ca.
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Quote:
69dartGT
Think the truck turned out great! You need to post a before and after pic in your first post
Thanks here is a before pic:
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69DartGT
moparts member
Reged: Jan 20 2003
Loc: Southern, Ca.
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Here's what it looks like today: Plus that black paint under the grill is now red.
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It's For Sale
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69DartGT
moparts member
Reged: Jan 20 2003
Loc: Southern, Ca.
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69DartGT
moparts member
Reged: Jan 20 2003
Loc: Southern, Ca.
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Don't forget the small foam brushes also. I used brightside fire red and found rustoleum's safety red was a great match for those really hard to reach places like where the bed is next to the rear of the cab on the truck.
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racinjason
member
Reged: Mar 27 2006
Loc: Garland, Texas USA
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Quote:
Hard to believe nobody has posted progress pictures here yet
69dartGT, sent you a pm....
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69DartGT
moparts member
Reged: Jan 20 2003
Loc: Southern, Ca.
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Quote:
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...425#Post3492965
This link will take you to the original 159 page thread which is unlocked in the tech archives right at the top.
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69DartGT
moparts member
Reged: Jan 20 2003
Loc: Southern, Ca.
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Okay I just found out that only a mod can post on a thread in the tech archives, also I can't move just a portion of the thread here, so I suggest we all use it as a ref and then post results here. I think in the long run a bunch of the things covered early on in the mega thread will be revisited here. Sort of like this: http://carpainting.wetpaint.com/page/Rollering+Interlux+Brightside+Polyurethane+Paint
Edited by 69DartGT (Fri May 11 2007 11:49 PM)
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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WHEW!! I thought I'd lost you guys, I'm new to this Forum thing and kept looking for a link on the old thread to get here. Tonight I decided to search for this and lo and behold here you all are. Thought I'd lost you for sure.
69DartGT: are you saying that if someone asks for advice that we know is in the original thread we should refer them there and try to keep this thread for progress pics only? I have not started my car yet and I may have some questions to ask. Since I have read the entire first two parts I will try to keep my questions to furthering everyone's information. I would assume this will be fine and we are just trying to avoid rehashing old info.
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69DartGT
moparts member
Reged: Jan 20 2003
Loc: Southern, Ca.
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Quote:
69DartGT: are you saying that if someone asks for advice that we know is in the original thread we should refer them there and try to keep this thread for progress pics only?
No I don't see this thread any different then the others just a continuation of same. Post as you would have on the old thread.
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MNobody
Nobody fluffier than me
Reged: Feb 27 2005
Loc: Michigan
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Part III....Now it's a Trilogy
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
Part III....Now it's a Trilogy
"One Web-Ring To Rule Them All!!!"
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Okay, all joking aside, I do have a quick question for those of you who spray bombed thier jambs.... How many coats did you guys do with the bombs on your jambs?
(69DartGT: Thanks for the clarification)
On a sidenote: I just washed a brand new 2008 King Ranch F-350 for a customer here at the dealership. This truck is gloss black. You guys would not believe how horrible the orange peel is on this thing and it's a $55,000 truck. With the attention to detail that we all give, our paint will come out way better than this "factory" paintjob!!!
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Any chance you might go back to the part II thread and tell folks where to find this new thread? A link?
It took a bit of searching to find the new one.
Bob
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62440
enthusiast
Reged: May 09 2007
Loc: BC Canada
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I just recently joined "Moparts" and came across this topic. I started painting my car's under-carriage and engine compartment with "Tremclad" Black Satin with spray cans about 2 years ago and I want to finish it with the roller. It's been 4 years now, I Work Slow I am wondering if the Black Satin will Buff out like Satin or Gloss Also I was going to put on Silver Grey Stripes . I bought a can of Gloss Dark Grey and a can of Gloss Aluminum . Will the Two mix OK I guess I will find out One Way or Another
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Wyl E Coyote
member
Reged: Sep 25 2006
Loc: Spokane, WA USA
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Quote:
Quote:
Part III....Now it's a Trilogy
"One Web-Ring To Rule Them All!!!"
Here is the thread that started it all...
A Long Long Long Time ago in a far away paint booth a man came up with an idea
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...part=1&vc=1
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Exit1965
top fuel
Reged: Jul 31 2003
Loc: Rancho Cordova, CA
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Hey everybody. I just got done making a site about this paint job process, it's
http://www.rollyourcar.com
I have a link to my picture gallery on there, if you have a gallery and want to link it please let me know where your pics are and I will make the link.
I'm not selling anything there, just giving info on the process, so hopefully people don't continually ask if they should use primer, or what to thin with 
There are links there back to all 3 threads here. In the future I will update the polishing section and maybe make more of a FAQ, but that would entail going through these threads and finding stuff which will take time.
Dave
Edited by Exit1965 (Sun May 13 2007 10:04 AM)
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racinjason
member
Reged: Mar 27 2006
Loc: Garland, Texas USA
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EXIT, Great Job!!! Site Looks really good. Already a "favorite".....
-------------------- RacinJason
('71 Chevy C-10 LWB 454/TH350)
('95 Chevy Siverado Shortbed Stepside 350/700R4)
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
On a sidenote: I just washed a brand new 2008 King Ranch F-350 for a customer here at the dealership. This truck is gloss black. You guys would not believe how horrible the orange peel is on this thing and it's a $55,000 truck. With the attention to detail that we all give, our paint will come out way better than this "factory" paintjob!!!
I agree. If you are willing to put in the time wet sanding I think you can have a smoother finish than about 90% of the cars out there. Next time you see a Hummer take a closer look. They are about the worst, with Toyota and Subaru as a close seconds. I wish I had not traded in my 96 Probe. I would probably be painting it right now. I'm seriously considering buying another car just because I want to try this so bad. I kinda wish I never saw this thread. 
check out the orange peel on this Subaru:
http://www.hillclanfishing.com/legacy/
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Smeg
member
Reged: Jan 29 2007
Loc: PA, USA
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Very quick update. Here is my Triumph TR4. Still needs more wetsanding and buffing, but it's getting there. Thanks to all for your help. Will post more pics when I have time.
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Marq
mopar addict
Reged: May 28 2006
Loc: Canada
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Sweet TR 4. I love them. Had three or four TR4A IRS's.... ( one of which I dropped a Buick Turbo V6 with an automatic and shift kit into).
And I love the wires. Is that an older one with the painted dash or the 'real burnish walnut wood' dash ?
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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arg, i cant figure out how much to thin the paint! Im getting tons of bubbles and runs! I think its too thin, after 3 coats it isnt even coming close to covering up the primer exct. It just looks like its been tinted

you can see all the bubbles, and in the top right corner you can see all the runs
Edited by stefan (Mon May 14 2007 12:18 AM)
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Marq
mopar addict
Reged: May 28 2006
Loc: Canada
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Quote:
arg, i cant figure out how much to thin the paint! Im getting tons of bubbles and runs! I think its too thin, after 3 coats it isnt even coming close to covering up the primer exct. It just looks like its been tinted
As noted in the past... each layer does look like just a tinting. It is the culmative effect that gives you the final result. Layer upon layer upon layer of 'tint' eventually adds up to a solid color.
So don't get worried about how thin it is applying and not giving instant coverage. You job as you build the layers is to get them as smooth as possible and minimize the bubbles.
Bubbles are 'somewhat' normal during the course of applying the paint. By using the high density foam roller you will minimize the bubbles transferred from the roller to the painted surface.
By using a cheaper foamy type roller... you are almost guaranteed of bubbles when you lay your coats on.
That is why we went in to a fair number of discussions during the course of the thread about how to work the surface as you lay a coat of paint on. In some cases it is a method called 'tipping' where you gently glide a paint brush over the bubbly surface to pup the bubbles.
In some cases you use two high density foam rollers.... one for painting... and a clean one for doing a quick second roll over the surface to pup the bubbles.
In some cases you can get away with gently blowing on the bubbles and they magically disappear.
In some cases you just have to stand back and do nothing... the bubbles will pop on their own. If they are not popping on their own, it usually means that you need to add some more thinner.
Just think of it this way... the only reason a 'bubble' can survive is if its surface tension is sufficient to hold it together. If it can reach the point where the bubble has dried and still held its bubble shape, then this means there was too much paint in the mix - and the surface of the bubble was able to dry and harden without breaking. So by thinning the paint mix more... the thinner will weaken the surface tension of the bubble and allow it to 'pop' on its own long before the paint begins to cure or harden.
Runs are simply natures way of telling you to not overload the roller with too much of your thinned paint mixture. The best time to tackle them is when you first spot them - and hopefully the paint hasn't begun drying yet. Simply take your roller to it and hopefully you can work it out by spreading it around. If it has dried when you spot it... well it is best to sand it out prior to the next layer of paint being applied. If you don't remedy it and instead just keep adding layers of paint... it will basically amplify its appearance. So nail it early rather than later.
The other thing that might cause bubbles or 'pits' is when the surface was not fully cleaned prior to the next application of paint. Again, this has to do with 'surface tension'. The picture you provided almost looks more like 'pits' where the subsurface ( the one being painted over ) had particles of some foreign matter on it. In a situation like that the overall tension of the paint surface will be 'repelled' from the spot where the contaminant is. In that case you just have to make sure that you go through the ritual of wiping the surface down with a tack cloth and then a quick wipe of just thinner ( only on a dried surface ) to ensure that there is nothing on the surface being painted that could cause a spot to repel the paint and cause the 'pit'.
Hope those ramblings help you out...
.
Edited by Marq (Sun May 13 2007 11:10 PM)
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Everything seemed to be going so smoothly on my test piece, two coats 600, two coats 800, two coats 1200(couldn't find 1500) and then a final once over with 2000. Ahh! finally to the buffing stage. It was then that I realized something was terribly wrong. When I went to buff it out I was burning through the top layer of paint and the difference from that and the next coat down is highly visible. I'm thinking my coats must be far to thin. I thinned my paint around 40% and was "wetting" the surface on each coat but the coats were so thin I burned right through them. Marq, Exit, Charger, Dart...Anyone got a good idea of how I can get a thick enough coat so that I don't wetsand through it?
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NAS Backyard
super gas
Reged: Jan 21 2003
Loc: Woodbridge,CA
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New Air Grabber assembly restoration on a budget, Rustoleum Anodized Bronze Semi flat paint 3.99, Silver paint pen to paint rivets 3.99, no.12X1/2" screws 1.69 plus, the repop rubber parts and sticker. Still cutting and fitting the fiberglass base plate for the air cleaner.
-------------------- 1969 Plymouth Roadrunner
1961 Olds 88 2 dr Sedan
1968 Pontiac Firebird
2000 Ford F-150
2002 HD Roadking
1995 Buick Roadmaster
www.nogreenautolaws.com
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NAS Backyard
super gas
Reged: Jan 21 2003
Loc: Woodbridge,CA
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Painting the rivets, these pens are trick for this kind of work
-------------------- 1969 Plymouth Roadrunner
1961 Olds 88 2 dr Sedan
1968 Pontiac Firebird
2000 Ford F-150
2002 HD Roadking
1995 Buick Roadmaster
www.nogreenautolaws.com
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62440
enthusiast
Reged: May 09 2007
Loc: BC Canada
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Exit, Great Site, Do you think Tremclad Alumimum and dark grey will mix properly
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Hi all,
I have been reading through this thread for about a week now, having linked to it from www.vwt4ownersclub.co.uk Big thank you to all for the great info!
I have been wanting to get my van painted for a couple of years now, but never seem to have the cash, I have now decided to scrap that plan and have gone and bought a couple of tins of black Brightside!
It will take me a while to prep but I will post pics as I progress. BTW I have found myself checking out random cars in traffic and can't believe how rubbish the factory paint jobs can be.
Edited by J-Boy (Mon May 14 2007 09:05 AM)
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Have just done a test patch with the Brightside, really easy to work with even straight from the tin, no orange peel and tons of gloss. My optimism is rising!
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lukdart67
member
Reged: Dec 10 2006
Loc: virginia, us
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do they sell rustoleum clear coat in 1gal. or qt.? if they do, where can i order it online ?
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racinjason
member
Reged: Mar 27 2006
Loc: Garland, Texas USA
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Some guys on the previous thread found this...
http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=219&SBL=2
and this
http://kscdirect.com/category/1000052/1007322/
scroll down and you'll find it.
However, if it has been tryed yet, results have not been posted yet....
-------------------- RacinJason
('71 Chevy C-10 LWB 454/TH350)
('95 Chevy Siverado Shortbed Stepside 350/700R4)
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Thanks to all that have made this a great read 
I started reading this last year and got serious about rolling my truck about a month ago....since then I bought some Brightside "ocean blue", pre-kote primer and some penetrol...mixed up a batch thinned with about 20% penetrol and a dash of regular mineral spirits and have two coats on my two front fenders. The results blew me away.... 
It layed down easily and had about a million bubbles....I started to get worried, but continued with the whole fender and then went over it with the second dry roller....badda boom...they were gone!!! Very little orange peel and smooth as a babies behind. Wet sand with 600 or 800 is next on the list...pictures to follow.
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Mike Da Wrench
member
Reged: Dec 22 2006
Loc: South Carolina, US
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So, I have this grill that after 200k miles is sandblasted to hell and dinged, but I'm too cheap to buy a new one.
So I figure I'd just sand it smooth and use some rattlecan rustoleum "chrome" finish with a shot of clear over top to give it that "mock chrome" look when I notice on the can of rustoleum clear it says specifically not to use over the "Chrome" OR RUSTOLEUM AUTOMOTIVE paints! 
Just thought I would pass that on...
I ended up using their silver finish with the clear - it is specifically mentioned as compatible on the can - It isn't chrome, but it does look better than it did.
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