mopar346
Slow Ride Dreamer
Reged: Jul 05 2007
Loc: Florida
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I'm going Toyota axles for a number of reasons, if you aren't committed yet, it may be worth a look.
56 inch WMS to WMS 4.10, 4.33, 4.56 and even 88s from the factory 6 lug chevy (good for me-I have a set of MT with 37.5 swampers) Extremely strong-axles as big as a 60 SOA from the factory so pinion is at a better pitch Close knuckle birfield (?) joints Crossover style steering Good aftermarket support-although not needed Availability of factory rear disc
Only problem I haven't answered yet is normal (by my standards) yokes.
Good luck, let me know if I can help.
-------------------- Careful, your character's showing!
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not_a_charger
Mr. Bigshot Moparts Moderator!
Reged: Dec 02 2007
Loc: Puttin' on the foil in Charles...
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Quote:
Doesn't look all that bad Dave I can see it black with some nice shiny alum or chrome body accents
Quote:
Some smooth polished stainless panels at the rockers and rear tub corners always looks sweet
What are you trying to do, get him to build a mall crawler? And for the record, because I know you'll notice it, I HATE the chrome grille overlay on my CJ, but it was there when I bought it. 
Dave, I have a 78 CJ-7 with Dana 44s out of a Scout, a TPI Chevy 350, SM465 trans, and Dana 300 t-case. If seeing anything on my rig might help you, let me know, and I'll try to take good pix for you. Good luck with your build. Jeeps are a blast, and no real parts scrounging required.
Are you going to install a good cage and tie it in?
-------------------- "Better people will be treated better. Worser people will be treated worser."
- Howie Chizek, radio talk show legend
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DusterDave
super stock
Reged: Jul 10 2010
Loc: In a Moab state of mind
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Quote:
I'm going Toyota axles for a number of reasons, if you aren't committed yet, it may be worth a look.
56 inch WMS to WMS 4.10, 4.33, 4.56 and even 88s from the factory 6 lug chevy (good for me-I have a set of MT with 37.5 swampers) Extremely strong-axles as big as a 60 SOA from the factory so pinion is at a better pitch Close knuckle birfield (?) joints Crossover style steering Good aftermarket support-although not needed Availability of factory rear disc
Only problem I haven't answered yet is normal (by my standards) yokes.
Good luck, let me know if I can help.
Wow, those Toyota axles sound great. As noted previously in this thread, I've already acquired front and rear Dana 44 axles.
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DusterDave
super stock
Reged: Jul 10 2010
Loc: In a Moab state of mind
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Quote:
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Doesn't look all that bad Dave I can see it black with some nice shiny alum or chrome body accents
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Some smooth polished stainless panels at the rockers and rear tub corners always looks sweet
What are you trying to do, get him to build a mall crawler? And for the record, because I know you'll notice it, I HATE the chrome grille overlay on my CJ, but it was there when I bought it. 
Dave, I have a 78 CJ-7 with Dana 44s out of a Scout, a TPI Chevy 350, SM465 trans, and Dana 300 t-case. If seeing anything on my rig might help you, let me know, and I'll try to take good pix for you. Good luck with your build. Jeeps are a blast, and no real parts scrounging required.
Are you going to install a good cage and tie it in?
Yes, a rollcage is part of the plan. I'm going to have the same shop that built my Duster rollcage do one for my Jeep. I'm thinking of a bolt-in design that ties into the factory rear mounts, and ties into forward outriggers made of 2x3 tubing that are welded to the outsides of the frame rails beneath the dash.
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wldtm
mopar addict
Reged: May 17 2005
Loc: Dayton, Ohio
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why not run a magnum with factory efi? I know a guy who does a harness for them relatively cheap
-------------------- Interested in having you car wired? Drag car, street car, EFI swap?
PM for details
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DusterDave
super stock
Reged: Jul 10 2010
Loc: In a Moab state of mind
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Quote:
why not run a magnum with factory efi? I know a guy who does a harness for them relatively cheap
I like to keep things caveman simple.
-------------------- Current project: '89 Jeep Wrangler frame-off, V8 stroker
Follow my Jeep build: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=Warlock&Number=6792940&page=0&fpart=1
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mopar346
Slow Ride Dreamer
Reged: Jul 05 2007
Loc: Florida
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Build this tie in with A body control arm bushings, tube and plate steel. I like the design because it isn't ridged and allows the body to be pulled later if nessary. 
http://www.discountjeepparts.com/product_info.php/cPath/3017_44_3626/products_id/39844
-------------------- Careful, your character's showing!
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Defbob
TaterSalad
Reged: Nov 27 2004
Loc: Norwich CT USA
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Quote:
What are you trying to do, get him to build a mall crawler? And for the record, because I know you'll notice it, I HATE the chrome grille overlay on my CJ, but it was there when I bought it.

Dave you ARE planning to go offroading..... aren't you??
-------------------- "Some Assembly Required"
The Dart formerly known as....
71 Challenger Convertible 11.54 @ 116
70 Cutlass S Twin Turbo something...
68 Kaiser M715
68 Kaiser M725
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DusterDave
super stock
Reged: Jul 10 2010
Loc: In a Moab state of mind
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Quote:
Quote:
What are you trying to do, get him to build a mall crawler? And for the record, because I know you'll notice it, I HATE the chrome grille overlay on my CJ, but it was there when I bought it.

Dave you ARE planning to go offroading..... aren't you??
Yes, but crossing river beds is out of the question!
-------------------- Current project: '89 Jeep Wrangler frame-off, V8 stroker
Follow my Jeep build: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=Warlock&Number=6792940&page=0&fpart=1
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rickstershemi
Rickster The Trickster!!
Reged: Jul 31 2006
Loc: Lehigh Acres, Florida
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Quote:
Quote:
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What are you trying to do, get him to build a mall crawler? And for the record, because I know you'll notice it, I HATE the chrome grille overlay on my CJ, but it was there when I bought it.

Dave you ARE planning to go offroading..... aren't you??
Yes, but crossing river beds is out of the question!
It can still look good and I'm sure it will 
Rickster
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Defbob
TaterSalad
Reged: Nov 27 2004
Loc: Norwich CT USA
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Quote:
Quote:
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What are you trying to do, get him to build a mall crawler? And for the record, because I know you'll notice it, I HATE the chrome grille overlay on my CJ, but it was there when I bought it.

Dave you ARE planning to go offroading..... aren't you??
Yes, but crossing river beds is out of the question!
-------------------- "Some Assembly Required"
The Dart formerly known as....
71 Challenger Convertible 11.54 @ 116
70 Cutlass S Twin Turbo something...
68 Kaiser M715
68 Kaiser M725
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DusterDave
super stock
Reged: Jul 10 2010
Loc: In a Moab state of mind
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Passed a milestone in the project yesterday. We separated the tub from the frame. Got a guy coming next weekend to buy the engine, trans, axles, basically all the stuff I won't be reusing.

I've got a decent amount of rust repair on the frame and body. Once the frame is stripped bare, I'm going to send it off to a shop for sandblasting. When it comes back, I'll attack the problem areas.
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rickstershemi
Rickster The Trickster!!
Reged: Jul 31 2006
Loc: Lehigh Acres, Florida
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It Begins 
Rickster
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emarine01
master
Reged: Jan 18 2007
Loc: nc
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Quote:
I'm going Toyota axles for a number of reasons, if you aren't committed yet, it may be worth a look.
56 inch WMS to WMS 4.10, 4.33, 4.56 and even 88s from the factory 6 lug chevy (good for me-I have a set of MT with 37.5 swampers) Extremely strong-axles as big as a 60 SOA from the factory so pinion is at a better pitch Close knuckle birfield (?) joints Crossover style steering Good aftermarket support-although not needed Availability of factory rear disc
Only problem I haven't answered yet is normal (by my standards) yokes.
Good luck, let me know if I can help.
The Toyota axles will stand up to just about any kind of abuse you can throw @ them
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Defbob
TaterSalad
Reged: Nov 27 2004
Loc: Norwich CT USA
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56" is a little narrow for a YJ frame. It would be perfect in a CJ7 frame, but he won't get full turn in his Jeep.
-------------------- "Some Assembly Required"
The Dart formerly known as....
71 Challenger Convertible 11.54 @ 116
70 Cutlass S Twin Turbo something...
68 Kaiser M715
68 Kaiser M725
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DusterDave
super stock
Reged: Jul 10 2010
Loc: In a Moab state of mind
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Quote:
56" is a little narrow for a YJ frame. It would be perfect in a CJ7 frame, but he won't get full turn in his Jeep.
That's what I was thinking. Personally, I like the Waggy width better for the YJ's. I do wish my front Dana 44 was a high pinion model.
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DusterDave
super stock
Reged: Jul 10 2010
Loc: In a Moab state of mind
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The brown Santa delivered diff covers for the Dana 44's yesterday. These things are burly! They are made of cast steel, and weigh 9.5 lbs. each. Nice powder coating on them, and the price was very reasonable compared to other heavy duty diff covers out there.
-------------------- Current project: '89 Jeep Wrangler frame-off, V8 stroker
Follow my Jeep build: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=Warlock&Number=6792940&page=0&fpart=1
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rickstershemi
Rickster The Trickster!!
Reged: Jul 31 2006
Loc: Lehigh Acres, Florida
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I knew it......gonna be another lugnut polisher project.........j/k
Those are sweet 
Rickster
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DusterDave
super stock
Reged: Jul 10 2010
Loc: In a Moab state of mind
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Quote:
I knew it......gonna be another lugnut polisher project.........j/k
Those are sweet 
Rickster
You'll probably end up being right about that, Rick! I can't help it. I'm a believer in the old saying, "any job worth doing, is worth doing well". Did I mention the base/clear carbon fiber effect I'm going to do on the frame?
-------------------- Current project: '89 Jeep Wrangler frame-off, V8 stroker
Follow my Jeep build: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=Warlock&Number=6792940&page=0&fpart=1
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DusterDave
super stock
Reged: Jul 10 2010
Loc: In a Moab state of mind
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Four of the 8 leaf spring bolts were seized in the bushing sleeves, so I had to cut them out with a 5" cutoff wheel. The only bolts left to fight me are the ones on the back bumperette and the front bumper.

Did I mention that the frame has some slight rust? Fortunately, the front two thirds of the frame is completely solid, its the back third that needs all the new metal. I haven't yet decided if I should re-metal the rotted spots, or go whole hog and completely cut off the back part of the frame and build new rails from scratch.


-------------------- Current project: '89 Jeep Wrangler frame-off, V8 stroker
Follow my Jeep build: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=Warlock&Number=6792940&page=0&fpart=1
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rickstershemi
Rickster The Trickster!!
Reged: Jul 31 2006
Loc: Lehigh Acres, Florida
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Dang Dave, might be easier to pick up a few sticks of 2x3 channel and build new frame rails 
Rickster
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Defbob
TaterSalad
Reged: Nov 27 2004
Loc: Norwich CT USA
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New Frames
-------------------- "Some Assembly Required"
The Dart formerly known as....
71 Challenger Convertible 11.54 @ 116
70 Cutlass S Twin Turbo something...
68 Kaiser M715
68 Kaiser M725
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mopar346
Slow Ride Dreamer
Reged: Jul 05 2007
Loc: Florida
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Quote:
56" is a little narrow for a YJ frame. It would be perfect in a CJ7 frame, but he won't get full turn in his Jeep.
Yep, didn't think about it being a YJ, the 86 and up axles are 60, which is YJ I think, no solid front though, one would have to space a mini truck axles. All just discussion at this point anyway he is well on his way with the 44s. I bought all the new parts to build a high pinion and picked up a 4.56 cyl chunk for the rear last week. Also got a high steer set up using one ton stuff. Pulled the T-4 to make way for the 435 today. Well on the way. I would replace that frame if it were me, but if you are gonna build it do a fully articulating 4 link or something exotic.
-------------------- Careful, your character's showing!
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DusterDave
super stock
Reged: Jul 10 2010
Loc: In a Moab state of mind
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Quote:
Dang Dave, might be easier to pick up a few sticks of 2x3 channel and build new frame rails 
Rickster
I tend to agree. The frame measures 4" x 2-1/2". The bad spots are after the rear leaf spring mounts. It's certainly fixable. I'm confident that she'll be as good as new when I get done with it.
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rickstershemi
Rickster The Trickster!!
Reged: Jul 31 2006
Loc: Lehigh Acres, Florida
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Quote:
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Dang Dave, might be easier to pick up a few sticks of 2x3 channel and build new frame rails 
Rickster
I tend to agree. The frame measures 4" x 2-1/2". The bad spots are after the rear leaf spring mounts. It's certainly fixable. I'm confident that she'll be as good as new when I get done with it.
Well that goes without saying.....just thinking of options.....if it were me, I'd be looking into having new frame rails bent up to copy the originals in m/s tubing, then add brackets to the stock locations....functional, lightweight and cool 
Rickster
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DusterDave
super stock
Reged: Jul 10 2010
Loc: In a Moab state of mind
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Quote:
Quote:
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Dang Dave, might be easier to pick up a few sticks of 2x3 channel and build new frame rails 
Rickster
I tend to agree. The frame measures 4" x 2-1/2". The bad spots are after the rear leaf spring mounts. It's certainly fixable. I'm confident that she'll be as good as new when I get done with it.
Well that goes without saying.....just thinking of options.....if it were me, I'd be looking into having new frame rails bent up to copy the originals in m/s tubing, then add brackets to the stock locations....functional, lightweight and cool 
Rickster
The local Alro Metals store has in stock 4" x 2-1/2" rectangular steel tubing in 11 gauge, which will be a perfect match to my frame. The decision is made, I'm going to chop the back end and rebuild the rails. I'll make the fish plates in the shape of pentastars, just because! I'll also fab a new rear crossmember/gas tank support.
-------------------- Current project: '89 Jeep Wrangler frame-off, V8 stroker
Follow my Jeep build: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=Warlock&Number=6792940&page=0&fpart=1
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rickstershemi
Rickster The Trickster!!
Reged: Jul 31 2006
Loc: Lehigh Acres, Florida
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
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Dang Dave, might be easier to pick up a few sticks of 2x3 channel and build new frame rails 
Rickster
I tend to agree. The frame measures 4" x 2-1/2". The bad spots are after the rear leaf spring mounts. It's certainly fixable. I'm confident that she'll be as good as new when I get done with it.
Well that goes without saying.....just thinking of options.....if it were me, I'd be looking into having new frame rails bent up to copy the originals in m/s tubing, then add brackets to the stock locations....functional, lightweight and cool 
Rickster
The local Alro Metals store has in stock 4" x 2-1/2" rectangular steel tubing in 11 gauge, which will be a perfect match to my frame. The decision is made, I'm going to chop the back end and rebuild the rails. I'll make the fish plates in the shape of pentastars, just because! I'll also fab a new rear crossmember/gas tank support.

Rickster
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dusturbd340W5
super gas
Reged: Jan 19 2003
Loc: Kissimmee Fl.
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might be easier to just find a good frame out of a wreaking yard.
-------------------- 70 duster full chassis super pro 416 CNC Indybrock heads 727 w/brake
best so far 1.352 60 6.219 in 1/8 at 110.88 9.768 at 137.81 1/4
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Defbob
TaterSalad
Reged: Nov 27 2004
Loc: Norwich CT USA
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or a new frame
-------------------- "Some Assembly Required"
The Dart formerly known as....
71 Challenger Convertible 11.54 @ 116
70 Cutlass S Twin Turbo something...
68 Kaiser M715
68 Kaiser M725
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DusterDave
super stock
Reged: Jul 10 2010
Loc: In a Moab state of mind
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Quote:
or a new frame
That's taking the easy way out, and the expensive way out, too. I bought a 14 foot stick of 4 x 2-1/2 x 11 gauge steel tubing, plus some 11 ga. flat stock for the joiner plates.
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DusterDave
super stock
Reged: Jul 10 2010
Loc: In a Moab state of mind
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The new magnum heads came in. With these heads, the 390 should make great torque down low.

I pulled the stock 2.5L and 5 speed out. The frame is now completely bare, which means NO MORE RUSTED BOLTS TO DEAL WITH. I'm going to cut off the back end of the frame this weekend, and send the frame out for sand blasting next week. When it comes back, I'll begin creating the rear frame section. I bought a Milwaukee chop saw for cutting the rectangular tubing, and to get all of my angle cuts right, I created a 3D model of the frame rails I'm building using Inventor.
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GO_Fish
super gas
Reged: Jul 18 2003
Loc: Maryland
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You can hog those magnum heads out some for sure. This is the best pic I could find at the moment. There is a large restriction in the bowl below the valve seat. You can see this comparison on the 2 Magnum intake valves pictured. On a well ported Magnum intake throat, a golf ball will snugly fit all the way in the port and sit on top the valve guide, where it will not even closely set that deep on a stock port. Don't mess with the short radius that much, but the other 3 walls of the port should pretty much go straight down from the valve seat, eliminating the bottle neck.
-------------------- Scott B.
"I'm a self-made man... I started with nothing, and I still have most of it!"
68 360 rusty B'cuda 'vert (GO Fish)13.59@ 98.72 mph
69 340 GTS stock 14.18@ 95.60 mph
01 5.9L Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4x4
01 3.5L 300M 16.23@ 86.97 mph
Edited by GO_Fish (Wed Oct 12 2011 11:42 PM)
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rickstershemi
Rickster The Trickster!!
Reged: Jul 31 2006
Loc: Lehigh Acres, Florida
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Quote:
The new magnum heads came in. With these heads, the 390 should make great torque down low.
Dave.....you mention new...??? Are those stock magnum heads from Ma Mopar or aftermarket..???
318/390...cool to see your going to stroke the 318....who's crank, rods and pistons are you going with...???
I remember "mild 318" being mentioned in your 1st post....funny how plans tend to escalate.....it's a sickness....lol 
Rickster
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DusterDave
super stock
Reged: Jul 10 2010
Loc: In a Moab state of mind
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Quote:
You can hog those magnum heads out some for sure. This is the best pic I could find at the moment. There is a large restriction in the bowl below the valve seat. You can see this comparison on the 2 Magnum intake valves pictured. On a well ported Magnum intake throat, a golf ball will snugly fit all the way in the port and sit on top the valve guide, where it will not even closely set that deep on a stock port. Don't mess with the short radius that much, but the other 3 walls of the port should pretty much go straight down from the valve seat, eliminating the bottle neck.
That's some great porting advice, and I really do appreciate it, but my goal (for this application) is making good low end torque, not big HP numbers. I'm looking to make around 300 HP, which will be plenty for the Jeep, and from what I've read, the stock heads are supposed to support up to around 400 HP.
-------------------- Current project: '89 Jeep Wrangler frame-off, V8 stroker
Follow my Jeep build: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=Warlock&Number=6792940&page=0&fpart=1
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DusterDave
super stock
Reged: Jul 10 2010
Loc: In a Moab state of mind
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Quote:
Quote:
The new magnum heads came in. With these heads, the 390 should make great torque down low.
Dave.....you mention new...??? Are those stock magnum heads from Ma Mopar or aftermarket..???
318/390...cool to see your going to stroke the 318....who's crank, rods and pistons are you going with...???
I remember "mild 318" being mentioned in your 1st post....funny how plans tend to escalate.....it's a sickness....lol 
Rickster
I bought the heads from a Moparts member. They are 10 year old factory heads, so they aren't "brand new", but they were never used on a running engine, just used for mock-up purposes on some engine builds. I looked at them closely, and I see no evidence that they've ever been used. I'm going with an Eagle cast 4" crank, stock rods, and KB forged pistons. I wish someone made hypers for this combo, because I don't really need forged slugs in this application. The KB's are the least expensive pistons I've found for the 4" crank combo. The extra cubes are tempting, because it doesn't cost that much more to go from 318 to 390. Big torque down low is what I'm after.
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Jwilli500
super gas
Reged: Jan 20 2003
Loc: Oklahoma City
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Dave, When you get ready to order your engine parts, check these guys out. www.cnc-motorsports.com Right now they have the Icon 390 pistons for less than $370 a set ($475 at Summit!). Also, there sure has been a lot of buzz here on Moparts lately about the Eagle 4" cast cranks breaking even in lower horsepower situations. Same folks above sell the SCAT 4" cast cranks for about $300. LOL I'm not a Rep for CNC, I've just bought some stuff from them and been happy with the prices and the way the transactions went. Just my
Edited by Jwilli500 (Thu Oct 13 2011 10:16 PM)
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rickstershemi
Rickster The Trickster!!
Reged: Jul 31 2006
Loc: Lehigh Acres, Florida
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Quote:
Dave, When you get ready to order your engine parts, check these guys out. www.cnc-motorsports.com Right now they have the Icon 390 pistons for less than $370 a set ($475 at Summit!). Also, there sure has been a lot of buzz here on Moparts lately about the Eagle 4" cast cranks breaking even in lower horsepower situations. Same folks above sell the SCAT 4" cast cranks for about $300. LOL I'm not a Rep for CNC, I've just bought some stuff from them and been happy with the prices and the way the transactions went. Just my

I'd go with the Icon's....nice pieces and the price is right....our 408 has a Scat Cast Crank, Scat I-Beams and Icon Flat-tops.....you must have a deal on machining because the cost resizing stock rods with new bolts is usually damn close to what a new set would cost.... 
Should be a sweet moder 
Rickster
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DusterDave
super stock
Reged: Jul 10 2010
Loc: In a Moab state of mind
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Quote:
Dave, When you get ready to order your engine parts, check these guys out. www.cnc-motorsports.com Right now they have the Icon 390 pistons for less than $370 a set ($475 at Summit!). Also, there sure has been a lot of buzz here on Moparts lately about the Eagle 4" cast cranks breaking even in lower horsepower situations. Same folks above sell the SCAT 4" cast cranks for about $300. LOL I'm not a Rep for CNC, I've just bought some stuff from them and been happy with the prices and the way the transactions went. Just my
Thanks for the heads up! I just checked out their site. I'll buy the Scat 4" crank tonight! Definitely looks like a better quality piece than the Eagle.
Rickster, you may have a point about the rods.
-------------------- Current project: '89 Jeep Wrangler frame-off, V8 stroker
Follow my Jeep build: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=Warlock&Number=6792940&page=0&fpart=1
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Jwilli500
super gas
Reged: Jan 20 2003
Loc: Oklahoma City
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Just Throwing this out there... Right now Mancini has the Eagle SIR rods in the pressed pin version only, for $130 a set... Edit: Oh yeah they're in the "overstocked" section.
Edited by Jwilli500 (Fri Oct 14 2011 03:00 PM)
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DusterDave
super stock
Reged: Jul 10 2010
Loc: In a Moab state of mind
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Quote:
Just Throwing this out there... Right now Mancini has the Eagle SIR rods in the pressed pin version only, for $130 a set... Edit: Oh yeah they're in the "overstocked" section.
I just looked. Holy Christ, that's cheap! Guess I'm buying a set of rods tonight too! My wife is gonna kill you all!!!!!!
-------------------- Current project: '89 Jeep Wrangler frame-off, V8 stroker
Follow my Jeep build: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=Warlock&Number=6792940&page=0&fpart=1
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